Addres:

Thamel - Kathmandu - Nepal

E-mail:

info@alpinistclub.com

Contact No:

+977 9843603583

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Annapurna 1 Expedition (8091m) Informaion

  • Max. Elevation: 8190M

  • Best Season: Autumn

  • Duration: 36 days

  • Trip Grading: Hard

  • Activity: Expedition

  • Transport: Private Jeep

  • Accommodation: Hotel - lodge - Tent

  • Meals: Breakfast - Lunch - Dinner

  • Availability Status: Breakfast - Lunch - Dinner

Highlight

Take on the legendary Annapurna Expedition (8,091m)—the world’s 10th highest peak. Challenge yourself on one of the most demanding 8000-meter climbs in the Himalayas, supported by expert Sherpa guides and a fully organized expedition team in Nepal.

Annapurna I, standing at 8091 meters (26,545 feet), is Nepal's eighth-highest peak and the world's tenth-highest peak. Although Annapurna I is the lowest of the Himalayan 8000-meter peaks, it is also one of the hardest to climb. On June 3, 1950, Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal accomplished the Annapurna Expedition ascent.


World's 10th highest peak ,Mount Annapurna 1, 8091M
1:1 Sherpa-to-participant ratio for expedition
Majestic views from the summit
Technically demanding mountain

Overview
Although Annapurna means "full of food" in Sanskrit, the popular translation is "Goddess of the Harvests." Annapurna, an avatar of Durga, is a fertility and agricultural goddess in Hinduism.  Annapurna is one of the most technically challenging mountains in the world, due to which its fatality-to-summit ratio is very low. Climbing one of the world's most challenging 8000-meter peaks, Annapurna, is an extreme journey.

We ascend Annapurna, which is 8,091 meters. Experienced mountaineers aware of the dangers in the Himalayas should only attempt to climb the tenth-highest peak on Earth. There have always been numerous risks associated with the North Face ascent, which was completed in 1950 by Maurice Herzog and his guide Louis Lachenal. The path meanders through a massive glacier, with consistently elevated objective risks. When there is a lot of snowfall, the less exposed top slopes can become extremely avalanche-prone. To minimize the amount of time that one is exposed to real hazards, the ascent's speed is primarily crucial to the endeavor's success.


Itinerary

DAY 1: ARRIVE AT KATHMANDU

Our team member will warmly greet you at the airport as soon as you arrive in Kathmandu. After that, you'll be taken to the hotel for some much-needed rest. The schedule calls for leisure time after a briefing regarding the progress and presentation of the trek. You will have a full day if you arrive early. This can be used as a place to relax or for people who want to freely explore the area. It's the perfect opportunity to savor the regional cuisine and gain a comprehensive understanding of Nepalese culture.
 
  • Accommodation: hotel
  • Meals: Dinner
  • Elevation: 1,440 

Day 2 :Drive FROM KATHMANDU TO POKHARA

You will have a long drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara. It is a scenic journey through Nepal's beautiful landscapes. The journey takes 6- 7 hours to complete depending upon the road's condition and traffic. The team guide member will give a brief instruction and briefing about the expedition.

  • Accommodation: Hotel
  • Meals: Dinner
  • Elevation: 822 m
  • Day Activity: Drive

Day 3 : JOURNEY FROM POKHARA TO TATOPANI

We take the difficult route that leads to Beni, the final big town before Kali Gandaki's small valley, up to Tatopani (40 km).

  • Accommodation: lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner.
  • Elevation: 1190 m
  • Day Activity: Drive

Day 4: HELI FLIGHT FROM TATOPANI TO BASE CAMP

We take a flight that makes climbing the Miristi Khola Gorges simple. It provides amazing views of the north face of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri.

  • Accommodation: Tent
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner.
  • Elevation: about 4190 m
  • Day Activity: Heli Flight

DAY 5 TO DAY 32: ASCEND MOUNT ANNAPURNA

Our journey begins on the ascend of Mount Annapurna. As far as difficulty level is concerned it graded as PD+ for the entire route, but significant objective dangers increased in case of bad weather conditions. We will gradually ascend various camps, Base Camp 4200 m, Camp 1: 5200 m, Camp 2: 5700 m, Camp 3: 6400 m, and Camp 4: 7400 m.

  • Accommodation: Tent 
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner.
  • Day Activity: Climbing

The itinerary follows the original route used by French mountaineers in 1950. Avalanches could occur there, especially between camps 1 and 2.

From Base Camp to Camp 1 From the base camp, you have to go up the moraine on the right bank of the large glacier which includes all the glaciers from the north and north-east faces of Annapurna. Once you reach the glacial plateau, you reach the slopes of the northern glacier. The route is crevassed but does not present any major technical difficulties.

Camp 1 to Camp 2 The route's most exposed section involves climbing the central glacier. There are some technical passages with fixed ropes or ladders to bridge the crevasses, and it is required to tack between the seracs. This section has an especially high avalanche risk.

Camp 2 to Camp 3 Although the path is still in the snow, it is more technical and less exposed as it follows a rocky spur that forms the edge of the north face. slopes are 45° on average.

Camp 3 to Camp 4 We keep going along the rocky spur to get to the steep slopes that lead to the summit ridge. Camp 4 to the Final Summit The summit push involves ascending the incredibly steep slopes that lead to the summit ridge. We continue right toward the rocks below the top as the slopes get steeper. A last 150-meter passage leads to the summit peak. The path changes significantly every year according to the state of the glaciers. This also applies to where the camps are situated

Day 33: HELI FLIGHT FROM BASE CAMP TO TATOPANI

We are picked up by helicopter and taken back to Tatopani from the base camp. The verdant valley of Kali Gandaki contrasts sharply with the harsh environment of the base camp.

  • Accommodation: lodge
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner
  • Elevation: about 1190 m
  • Day Activity: Fly

DAY 34: JOURNEY FROM TATOPAI TO POKHARA AND RETURN TO KATHMANDU

We will make quick arrangements to get back to the Pokhara City. Then we will travel back to Kathmandu in the late afternoon. We stay at a hotel in Kathmandu.

  • Accommodation: Hotel
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch and Dinner
  • Elevation:1,440m Day
  • Activity: Drive

DAY 35: REST DAY AT KATHMANDU

Free day in Kathmandu is a safety precaution in case unforeseen circumstances arise during the trek. Today, you can unwind and rejuvenate or explore Kathmandu at your leisure, including shopping or engaging in any activity of your choice. Feel free to make the most of this day according to your preferences and interests.

  • Accommodation: Hotel
  • Meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner
  • Elevation:1,440 m

DAY 36: FINAL DEPARTURE AT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Depending on the departure time of your flight our representative will drop you at the airport, ending your journey in Nepal. We hope to provide our services to you again.

  • Accommodation: Hotel
  • Meals: Breakfast
  • Elevation:1,440 

Included

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE : ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE :

Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by private vehicle.

HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU : HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU :

4-night hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) - single room on bed and breakfast plan.

WELCOME DINNER : WELCOME DINNER :

One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office Staff.

PERMITS : PERMITS :

Expedition Royalty and a permit fee from the Nepal Government to climb Mt. Annapurna Himal, ACAP,

LIAISON OFFICER : LIAISON OFFICER :

Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.

GARBAGE MANAGEMENT : GARBAGE MANAGEMENT :

Stool Shipment Transfer and Garbage Deposit Fees.

INSURANCE : INSURANCE :

Medical and Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.

MAP : MAP :

Trekking and climbing map.

DUFFLE BAG : DUFFLE BAG :

One Alpinist club Duffle Bag.

MEMBER TRANSPORTATION : MEMBER TRANSPORTATION :

Private Transportation from Kathmandu –Tatopani -Kathmandu, as per itinerary.

EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION : EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION :

All necessary expedition equipment transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu and Tatopani and Base camp (by Porters / Yak) – While returning: Base camp to Tatpani (by porters / Yak) and Tatopani to Kathmandu (by jeep).

MEMBER LUGGAGE : MEMBER LUGGAGE :

Up to 40 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters or Yaks.

FOOD AND LODGING : FOOD AND LODGING :

3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at the Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and fresh green vegetables, fresh meat, fruits, and soft drinks will be served during the entire expedition using helicopter flights. Well-managed base camp set up for members and Staff.

PORTER : PORTER :

Porters per member up to the Base camp and from the Basecamp (both ways).

BASE CAMP STAFF : BASE CAMP STAFF :

Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook and kitchen Helpers as required.

STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE : STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE :

All Nepalese staff and porters' daily wages, salary, equipment, food and clothing.

BASE CAMP TENT : BASE CAMP TENT :

Each member will have an individual tent in Base Camp.

BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT : BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT :

Single Tent, foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dining Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet and 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staffs Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tents, Tables and chairs and all necessary cooking gears.

HEATER : HEATER :

Heater at base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.

SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT : SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT :

1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, laptop, and other electronic devices.

TRAINING : TRAINING :

Oxygen, Mask Regulator, Ice wall, and gear training at Basecamp by Sherpa Guide.

HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA : HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA :

1 government-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.

ASSISTANCE : ASSISTANCE :

Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.

CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE : CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE :

Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.

BONUS : BONUS :

Carry Bonus of Sherpas and Route Fixing Charges.

OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2):Summit Oxygen : OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2):Summit Oxygen :

3 oxygen bottles (4 ltrs.) for each member and 1 oxygen bottle for each high-altitude Sherpa.

OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR : OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR :

Each member and high-altitude Sherpa must wear one set of Summit oxygen masks and regulators, which must be returned after the expedition.

HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) : HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) :

High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2), and (C3). Group climbing gears, and fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.

HIGH ALTITUDE TENT : HIGH ALTITUDE TENT :

Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).

ROPE FIXING TEAM : ROPE FIXING TEAM :

The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the rope and the route.

SATELLITE PHONE : SATELLITE PHONE :

Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members with an appropriate charge.

WALKIE-TALKIE : WALKIE-TALKIE :

WalkieTalkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.

WEATHER FORECAST : WEATHER FORECAST :

Weather forecast report during the entire expedition.

MEDICAL KIT : MEDICAL KIT :

Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.

SUMMIT BONUS : SUMMIT BONUS : Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa - Minimum 700 USD.

CERTIFICATE : CERTIFICATE :

Mount Annapurna climbing certificate (after climbing Mount Annapurna successfully)


Excluded

AIRFARE :

International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).

NEPAL ENTRY VISA FEE :

The Nepalese Visa fee is USD 125 for 90 Days.

LUNCH & DINNER :

Lunch and dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).

EXTRA NIGHTS IN KATHMANDU :

Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, or domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.

INSURANCE POLICY :

Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high-altitude rescue and air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.)

Mandatory PERSONAL EXPENSES :

Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).

PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT :

Clothing, Packing Items, Bags, Personal Medical Kit, and all kinds of Personal Trekking / Climbing Gear.

FILMING :

Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.

INTERNET SERVICE :

Not included during the trek and the expedition.

TIPS :

Calculate some tips for Basecamp and high camp staff – Minimum 350 USD.

EXTRA : Any other services or activities not mentioned in the itinerary and other items not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.


Trip Organization
Your Nepalese team may consist of several people, each with different responsibilities. They are:


  • The Guide Leader (Sirdar) is responsible for and leader of the whole team and is treated with respect by all. Often he has earned his position by starting as a porter and rising through the ranks.
  • climbing sherpa: Experience mountain Guide, fixed rope and guided to the summit 
  • The Cook is responsible for all meals and is on a trek that doesn’t use lodges for meals. 
  • The Kitchen-boy is an assistant to the cook. )
  • The Assistant Guide is actively helping clients under the leader’s direction and set camp. 
  • The Porter is the load carrier for the trekking group. As Nepal is a mountain country with few roads, porters are employed to carry loads. Compliance with regulations and common courtesy dictates the maximum weight carried and the minimum wage paid. Porters are provided with gear based on the routes they follow and with insurance for alpine treks.
Each trekker is allotted the following maximum weights per person: Lodge (tea house) Accommodations: 15 kg maximum; Tent Camping: 22 kg maximum; Expeditions/summit ascents: 20 kg maximum. The porters are given a premium wage for carrying loads over 30 kg. 
In addition, the Nepal Alpinist club takes care to take out insurance for the Guide and porters. Specific equipment is allocated to them for crossing passes at altitude (even if wearers often refuse to put on shoes due to lack of habit).

Accommodations in Kathmandu
In Kathmandu, you will be accommodated in a hotel. We use different hotels depending on availability. The two preferred hotels are:

  • Hotel Himalayan Suit: Located in the heart of Thamel, this hotel is ideal for walking the bustling streets of Kathmandu. The spacious rooms all have a bathroom, air conditioning, and Wi-Fi. A fully equipped and active dining room is available for all meals, and the breakfast buffet offers a wide choice of foods. The hotel offers currency exchange, laundry services, and luggage storage.
  • Sampada Garden: Located just 20 minutes on foot from Thamel and  Durbar Square, this hotel is convenient for exploring Kathmandu. The rooms have all the necessary comforts for your stay: air conditioning, bathroom, and Wi-Fi. Breakfasts are served as a generous buffet. The hotel provides currency exchange, laundry services, and luggage storage.

Accommodations during the Expedition
For camping, accommodation during the expedition: during the expedition, breakfasts, Lunch, and Dinner are prepared by the kitchen team. They are taken to the mess tent. additional energy food is provided. Purchased locally, they offer a more limited. You can, if you wish, bring some complementary cereal bars adapted to your taste. 
  • For accommodation: meals are prepared by the cooks of the lodge and are taken from the lodge's dining room. Here is a typical one-day menu: 
  • breakfast: eggs, toast or chapati, or Tibetan bread or pancakes, or pancakes, butter/jam, tea or coffee
  • Lunch: a main course, tea or coffee
  • Dinner: soup, main course, fruit (fresh or canned), tea or coffee
  • During the trek, tea or coffee is served with meals. Two cups per person are included.
  • Apart from these included menus, other drinks and foodstuffs will be at your expense.
  • Water: provide tablets (Hydroclovazone, Micropur, or another type) to disinfect the water you put in your water bottle, depending on the source and on the advice of your guide. It is sometimes possible to buy purified water and refill your water bottle without having to buy bottled water. You can also buy mineral water in the cities (not included in the price) but its ecological balance is poor, as you know. Also, we do not recommend it.
Preparation for the Trek And Expedition
Preparing for the trek requires several months of preparation with 4 to 6-hour walks every weekend for stamina and participating in a sport that requires short periods of high exertion.

Medical check-up
Being in good health is essential to fully enjoy your Alpinist Club trip. If your last medical visit was more than four years ago, please get another general physical exam and tell your doctor the nature of your trip (climate, altitude, difficulty, etc.). The altitude also has the effect of reviving dental problems or other chronic pain, so getting a dental checkup is also prudent. If you are undertaking a high-altitude expedition, we advise you to consult a mountain medicine specialist.

Acute Mountain Sickness
This trip takes place at high altitudes, so some people may experience altitude-related discomforts like headaches, loss of appetite, and swelling of limbs. Most of these symptoms usually go away within a few days, but sometimes they can develop into a serious illness: pulmonary or cerebral edema. There are no preventive drugs for AMS. Diamox diuretic is often effective for symptomatic relief, but you should first check with your doctor to verify that it is not contraindicated for you. Think about it before you go.


FAQ's

1. What is the best time for an Annapurna Expedition? : The best time for the expedition is during the pre-monsoon (spring) season from April to June, and the post-monsoon (autumn) season from September to November.

2. What is the Annapurna Expedition? :

The Annapurna Expedition is a mountaineering journey to summit Mount Annapurna (8,091m), one of the world’s most challenging and highest peaks located in the Himalayas of Nepal.

3. How long does the Annapurna Expedition take? : The expedition typically takes 35-40 days, including acclimatization, travel, and the summit attempt.

4. Do I need prior climbing experience? :

Yes, climbers need substantial high-altitude mountaineering experience. You should be familiar with using climbing equipment, ice axes, and crampons, and have experience in navigating crevasses and snow.

5. What is the success rate of the Annapurna Expedition? :

The success rate varies yearly, but Annapurna is known for having a relatively lower success rate due to the technical difficulty and harsh weather conditions.

6. What permits are required for the Annapurna Expedition? :

To climb Annapurna, you need:
  • Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP)
  • Annapurna climbing permit from the Nepalese government
  • TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System) card
Your expedition company typically arranges these permits.

7. How much does the Annapurna Expedition cost? :

The cost of the expedition ranges between USD 25,000 to USD 40,000 per person, depending on the expedition package, guide services, permits, equipment, and other logistics.

8. What kind of physical training is required? :

Climbers should engage in intense physical conditioning several months in advance. This includes cardiovascular training, strength building, endurance exercises, and altitude acclimatization preparation.

9. What equipment is needed for the Annapurna Expedition? :

Essential equipment includes:
  • High-altitude mountaineering boots
  • Crampons,
  • ice axe, ropes
  • Down suit,
  • gloves, sleeping bag
  • Oxygen cylinders and masks
  • Climbing harness,
  • helmet, and sunglasses

10. Are there risks of avalanches on Annapurna? :

Yes, Annapurna is notorious for its avalanche-prone slopes. Climbers must be prepared for this risk, and guides will help navigate the safest routes possible.

11. What kind of support is provided during the expedition? :

Most expeditions offer experienced guides, Sherpa support, porters for carrying loads, and base camp accommodations. High-altitude guides provide critical support for safety and climbing logistics

12. What is the weather like on Annapurna? :

Weather can be highly unpredictable, with extreme cold, high winds, and sudden snowstorms. Temperatures can drop to -30°C (-22°F) or lower at higher altitudes.

13. Is oxygen used during the Annapurna climb? :

Yes, supplemental oxygen is often used above 7,000 meters to aid climbers in the extreme altitude and thin air. It helps prevent altitude sickness and improve performance during the final summit push.

14. How do I deal with altitude sickness on the expedition? :

Proper acclimatization is key to reducing the risk of altitude sickness. The expedition schedule includes rest days for acclimatization, and climbers must remain hydrated, avoid rapid ascents, and have medication like Diamox on hand.

15. How do I get to the starting point of the expedition? :

The expedition usually starts from Kathmandu, Nepal. From there, you’ll fly or drive to Pokhara and trek or fly to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) to begin the climb.

16. Can I do a shorter trek to Annapurna Base Camp instead of the full expedition? :

Yes, Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) trekking is a popular alternative for non-climbers. It’s a moderate trekking route that takes around 7-12 days, offering breathtaking views of the Annapurna massif without the technical challenge of summiting.