Ascent Chulu East 6548m with Nar Phu valley and Tilicho pass
Climbing Chulu East is an exciting adventure, reaching an elevation of 6,548 meters. The route is legendary, and we have designed an itinerary with perfect acclimatization. The journey includes passing through the scenic Nar Phu Valley and crossing Kangla Pass (5320m). We then ascend Chulu East, continue to Tilicho at 4,900 meters, and cross Mesokanto Pass (5100m). This trip is best suited for physically and mentally strong individuals with experience in the Alps.
Nepal
25 Days
moderate
Expedition
6548m
Spring - Autumn
Hotel - Tea house- Tent
Included
kathmandu-koto/Jomsom - pokhara
Nar Phu valley - kangla pass (5320m)- chulu east 6548 m - mesokunta pass 5100m
Chulu East Peak climbing is a moderate to challenging endeavor, requiring good physical fitness, mental strength, and prior climbing experience. The ascent to 6,548 meters involves technical challenges like glacier walking, navigation, and using crampons and ice axes.
The terrain and weather can be tough, and proper acclimatization is crucial to prevent altitude-related issues. Prior climbing experience in the Alps or similar ranges is recommended, along with special training to gain the necessary skills and confidence.
With the right preparation and experienced guides, climbers can summit Chulu East Peak, enjoying stunning views and a rewarding achievement. Our itinerary is carefully designed for ideal acclimatization, ensuring your safety and success.
Our climb follows the standard route via the Northeast Ridge. To summit Chulu East, we'll set up base camp, high camp, and camp 1. The summit attempt begins from camp 1, located behind the col of Chulu Far East. We allow for acclimatization at high camp or camp 1, adjusting the schedule if needed. The summit route is 4.5km long from the high camp and requires advanced glacier walking skills and navigation.
Summit day will be challenging, as you'll climb from camp 1 to the summit and return to the Base Camp all in one day. Before the climb, our guide will provide special training on various climbing techniques. You'll learn to use crampons, ice axes, ropes, and rescue skills, ensuring you have the necessary abilities and confidence for a successful summit of Chulu East peak.
Itinerary
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Upon your arrival in Kathmandu, our local team warmly welcomes you at the airport. You will then be escorted to the hotel, where you can enjoy some well-deserved relaxation. The itinerary includes a briefing about the trek's progress and presentation, followed by leisure time. If you arrive in the morning, you'll have the entire day at your disposal. This can be used for rest or for those interested, to explore the surroundings freely. It's an ideal chance to deeply experience Nepalese culture and indulge in the local culinary delights.
Transfer to hotel
Final altitude: approximately 13,50 m
Meals: Dinner
Accommodation: night in the hotel
Have breakfast and then you have the whole day to explore the best Kathmandu Sightseeing spots with your guide. You can visit and explore one of the most famous Shiva temples, Pashupatinath, recognized as the monkey temple; Swyambhunath, the largest Stupa in the world, also called Boudhanath Stupa; and finally the Royal Palace, Kathmandu Durbar Square. The next day, you will begin your trek on the Annapurna Circuit, so you have to check your equipment to make sure that you are ready for your adventure and climb. Have dinner and stay overnight in the same hotel in Kathmandu
Day tour
Final altitude: approximately 13,50 m
Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: night in the hotel
We leave by bus for Dumre, 130 kilometers from Kathmandu, on the road to Pokhara. The road offers magnificent views of the Trisuli river valley, then we cross superb tropical landscapes, before going up towards Dumre and having a first vision of the Annapurnas and Machhapuchhare. From there, we continue towards the north, up to Besi Sahar, by a track that curves in the middle of the rice fields. Then, we take a jeep to reach Koto, the starting point of our hike. The Marsyangdi River rumbles at the bottom of its gorges. Just before Tal, the valley suddenly opens up and we can admire the Manaslu (8,125 m). We are now in a Buddhist country, which was once part of the Gyasumdo region, whose center was Manang, and which traded a lot with Tibet.
private vehicle
Final Altitude: 2,600m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
Like a saber cut that would have split the rock, the entrance to the Naar Phu valley is between 2 impressive, vertical and not far apart cliffs: A real gorge and it is sometimes difficult to imagine that a path runs along the bottom of this canyon. Besides, the path weaves from one bank to the other and passes under a waterfall. Then this steep-sided atmosphere gives way to a valley that opens up more and more. A few crops on the terrace announce the arrival in Dharamsala. A small group of dwellings make up the bulk of this small town, staged on the side of the slope. Opposite, we see the valley that leads to Naar and which we will discover in a few days.
7 hrs of walking
Final altitude: 3,500m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
Although much less narrow than the day before, the valley is not an agricultural plain, far from it. A few terraces are suitable for cultivation and the steep slopes above provide some grass for the meager herds of goats, mules and yaks. The other side is a long wall that stretches over hundreds of meters. The hamlet of Kyang is located on a plateau just before a very deep gorge. Barely a few houses materialize in this place which is above all a stopover for trekkers.
6 hrs of walking
Final altitude: 3,820m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
Immediately the gorge narrows and the course is squarely cut into the cliff. The path which was in balcony is found at the level of the river, the Phu Kola. If the profile was relatively flat until then, the path suddenly rises in laces in the middle of the boulders. By reaching the lock we arrive at a door which signals the entrance to the commune of Phu. Some beautiful Buddhist chörtens protect the village and the valley widens a little. Suddenly we see Phu. The village, made up of a cluster of tightly packed houses, is a maze of small alleys that it is so pleasant to walk through.
4 hrs of walking
Final Altitude: 4,080m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
It is good to walk in this village laid out in an amphitheater. In areas exposed to the sun, the elders palaver while spinning the wool. They are always curious to see these strange people who walk just for fun, a very funny hobby. The day is used to soak up the atmosphere or to visit the small monastery located 30 minutes above the village. But it is also possible to go up the moraines, along a glacier, towards the Himlung base camp which rises to 7,126 m. This will be an opportunity to admire the Gyaji Kang at 7,038 m or the Nemjung at 7,140 m.
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
It is with regret that we leave this end of the world where life seems peaceful to us. We take the path in the other direction but the new perspectives on the summits prevent the monotony. After the gate we descend the path then the part cut in the rock, finally just before Dharamsala we dive towards the bottom of the valley and we cross the river on an old bridge which is a jewel of construction. We have to climb a few switchbacks to reach the recent monastery just above. A few monks welcome us and offer a few rooms.
6 hrs of walking
Final altitude: 3,490m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
We attack a beautiful, slightly steep climb that quickly leads us to the edge of a plateau. We reach a beautiful alignment of quite an impressive Buddhist Chörtens and we just have to turn around to admire the beautiful enfilade with the Kanguru at 6,981 m which culminates in the background. A herd of yaks often stays in the sector in semi-freedom, which does not spoil the decor, on the contrary. We cross the plateau and see the village of Naar and terraced crops below. Like Phu, the small town of Naar is absolutely beautiful and it feels like time has stood still in these places. We have the whole afternoon to walk the streets and observe the scenes of Nepalese rural life in a Tibetan village.
3 hrs of walking
Final Altitude: 4,110m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
A long day to cross the first pass at more than 5000 meters. We leave early but walk quietly. The climb is steady and does not present any particular difficulty. At the pass, the landscape is simply breathtaking with the Annapurna massif just opposite which seems so close: Annapurna II at 7,937 m, Annapurna IV at 7,525 m, Annapurna III at 7,555 m, Gangapurna at 7,454 m, Tare , Kang at 7,069 m, Khangsar Kang at 7,485 m and just a little further, Tilichio Peak at 7,134 m. The enormous sparkling glaciers offer us one of the most beautiful spectacles of the Himalayas, a monumental setting which has made the reputation of the Annapurna massif. Long descent first in a scree then on a good path towards Ngawal for a well deserved rest.
8-9hrs of walking
Final altitude: 3,655m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
From Ngawal We hike along the trail through vertical grazing land where the field bond into rock. Then, we will reach the Chulu East base camp. From here we see a superb view of Annapurna massif exte. then set our camp here for an overnight stay.
6hrs of walking
Final Altitude: 4800m
Meals: Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
Accommodation: Night in a Tent
Today we hike to a high camp for proper acclimatization at a high altitude. Today we will prepare and arrange our climbing gear as well. Overnight at a tented camp in Chulu East base camp.
Final Altitude: 4800m
Meals: Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
Accommodation: Night in a Ten
We today ascend to the high camp and the track up to the high camp follows snow slopes. As we continue climbing, more than a few peaks come to our view on the way. And reaching the Chulu East High Camp offers us a sentiment of getting to the top of the world. Overnight at tented camp.
4hrs of walking
Final Altitude: 5500m
Meals: Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
Accommodation: Night in a Tent
Final Altitude: 5800m
Meals: Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
Accommodation: Night in a Tent
After we ascend to the summit of Chulu East and we will descend all along the vertical slopes to the high camp to the base camp. Overnight at tented camp.
Day without too much difficulty which is good because the day before was a big step. The path on the mountainside crosses meadows and some small forests. It is not uncommon to come across some blues ships which are protected in this region and are not too afraid of the presence of man as long as you stay at a reasonable distance. We cross a few peaceful hamlets and towards Braga we find the "classic" path of the Annapurna tour and its share of trekkers. We arrive at Manang, the largest town in the valley, the "Chamonix" of the Annapurna tour with its shops and bars.
6hrs of walking
Final Altitude: 4800m
Meals: Breakfast- lunch- Dinner
Accommodation: Night in a lodge
In Manang, we find the traditional way of the Turn of Annapurnas but it is for immediately leaving it. Here begins our second detour, which will take us to Jomosom, via an altitude path. While the classic path follows the banks of the Jharsang khola river, to then cross the pass of Thorong at 5,416 meters, we will reach the moraine lake, at the bottom of the north face of Gangapurna (7,454 m) before climbing gradually to the village of Khangsar. The last of our route before Jomosom. From the village, very beautiful view, especially on the Tarke Kang (7,202 m). Continuation to the base camp of Tilicho by taking a path traced on the side in sandy slopes.
6 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately t 4,150m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
Now, we are walking in the footsteps of Herzog's expedition in 1950, when they were looking for an access route to reach the foot of Annapurna I. They were the first to reveal the existence of the huge lake that stretches at the foot of the Tilicho peak (7,134 m), they also named "the great barrier", the huge wall that stretches between the Roc Noir (7,485 m) and the northern summit of the Nilgiri (7,061 m). This name imposed itself on the expedition when it became obvious that no passage would be possible through this wall, to reach the slopes of Annapurna I. For two days, we will remain at high altitudes, at most near the summits, on paths that can be covered in snow. This evening, the view from our camp will look down over the Tilicho Lake scoop dominated by the glacial faces of Tilicho Peak.
7 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 5,020m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a tent
We cross a first pass at 5,345 m before embarking on a long crossing of an often snow-covered plateau to a sign indicating the direction of Mesokanto La. We discover the first surprise of the day, namely that we will have to cross a second pass that you reach by crossing using a small path on the side of the screen in almost a contour line. Then it's a "flat Nepalese" path that will take us to the very end of a ridge where we will cross the Muktinath himal chain via the Mesokanto pass, at 5,100 m. On the other side, at the very bottom of the valley, you can make out the wide bed and the winding meanders of the Kali Gandaki. In the sky, the peaks of Tukuche (6,920 m) and Dhaulagiri, one of the most aesthetic 8,000 m, stand out; while to the north the brown peaks herald Mustang, Dolpo, and Tibet. The descent is a bit long but first, you will have to carefully descend the first meters of a snowy slope sometimes frozen below. At the bottom, we cross the torrent to go up to cross a rocky ridge from which we overlook green mountain pastures. We even distinguish the kharka which will welcome us this evening. Only downside: the path takes its ease to lead us there and we arrive almost at nightfall.
6 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 4,200m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a tent
Last day of walking, all downhill, to reach the large town of Marpha, a village surrounded by many orchards where the succulent Mustang apples are grown. Here, in the furrow of the Kali Gandaki, a priori the deepest valley in the world (practically 6,000 m between the peaks of Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri I) often swept by a violent wind. Last captivating summit: the north face of the Nilgiri (7,061 m), covered with draperies of ice. "Trek is over…"
6hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 2,600m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
We end this superb trek by descending by bus to the impressive gorges that the Kali Gandaki has dug. In Beni, the tar continues the journey to Pokhara for a much-appreciated gluteal rest.
Private vehicle
Final altitude: approximately 800m
Meals: breakfast – lunch
Accommodation: night in a Hotel
Flight Pokhara - Kathmandu.
by private vehicle and domestic flight
about 35 minutes
about 1300m
Meals: Breakfast –
Accommodation: overnight at the hotel
free time depending on the departure time of your flight and our representative will drop you at the airport, ending your journey in Nepal. We hope to be of service to you again. Thank you and safe travels.
Trip Included
- ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE : Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by private vehicle.
- HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU : 3 nights hotel in Kathmandu With breakfast plan.
- WELCOME DINNER : One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Offices' Staff.
- CARGO CLEARANCE : Assistance for cargo clearance in Nepal’s Customs, clearance cost is subject to a charge.
- PERMITS : Expedition Royalty and permits fee of Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) to climb chulu East peak and Annapurna conservation area project
- GARBAGE MANAGEMENT : Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
- INSURANCE : Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
- MAP : Trekking and climbing map.
- DUFFLE BAG : One Alpinist club Duffle Bag.
- MEMBER TRANSPORTATION : private jeep as per itinerary.
- EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION : All necessaries' expedition equipment transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Manang(by jeep ) and Base camp (by Porter/ mule) – While returning: Base camp to kathmandu (by porters / jeep) .
- MEMBER LUGGAGE : Up to 25 Kg per member as personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters.
- FOOD AND LODGING : 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/Tent during the trek and at the Basecamp and high camp.
- PORTER : Porters per member up to the Base camp and from the Basecamp (both ways).
- HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA : 1 government-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back.
- ASSISTANCE : Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.
- CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE : Climbing Sherpas' Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.
- OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2) : Oxygen bottles will be in stock at base camp in case of an emergency (with an appropriate charge).
- OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR : 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks will be in base camp in case of an emergency.
- HIGH CAMP SERVICE INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) : High Altitude Tent, Lights, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews. Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
- HIGH ALTITUDE TENT : Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).
- WEATHER FORECAST : Weather forecast report during the entire expedition.
- GUIDE : Local government licensed Guide (English speaking) during the trek and sightseeing in Kathmandu valley.
- MEDICAL KIT : Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
- CERTIFICATE : chulu East Peak climbing certificate issued by NMA (after climbing e peak successfully).
Trip Excluded
- AIRFARE: International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
- NEPAL ENTRY VISA FEE: The Nepalese Visa fee is $50 USD for 30 Days.
- LUNCH & DINNER: Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
- EXTRA NIGHTS IN KATHMANDU: Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, or domestic flight cancellation (for any other reason) other than the scheduled itinerary.
- INSURANCE POLICY: Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high-altitude rescue & air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory
- PERSONAL EXPENSES: Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).
- PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: Clothing, Packing Items, Bags, Personal Medical Kit, and all kinds of Personal Trekking / Climbing Gear.
- TOILETRIES: Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
- FILMING: Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
- INTERNET SERVICE : Not included during the trek and the expedition.
- SUMMIT BONUS: Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa - Minimum 300 USD.
- TIPS: Calculate some tips for the high camp and other staff– Minimum 100 USD.
- EXTRA: Any other services or activities not mentioned in the itinerary and other items not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.
Notes: Costs may be subject to change in itinerary. So costs will be recalculated if the trekking/tour days get modified.
Note: For unforeseeable reasons at this stage of climatic hazards, form or deformity of the participants or others (state of the roads, traffic, case of unforeseeable, your guide or guide may have to adapt the program, if necessary for the smooth running of your trip. He remains the sole judge and guarantor of your safety. Walking times are given as an indication and may vary from one participant to another.
Trip Organization
Your Guide and Team, peak climbing
Your guide, from your arrival in Kathmandu until your departure, is responsible for the success of your trip and oversees your team. Do not hesitate to ask him questions, respect his position as the team leader, and above all follow his advice! Often your guide is the only English-speaking member of the team. In the mountains and, especially when during high-altitude travels, your guide is responsible for the safety of the group. The instructions he gives and the remarks he makes to all participants must be carefully followed. The interest and safety of the trekking group must be preserved, even when it may be to the detriment of an individual member of the group.
Your Nepalese team may consist of several people, each with different responsibilities. They are:
The Guide Leader (Sirdar) is responsible for and leader of the whole team and is treated with respect by all. Often he has earned his position by starting as a porter and rising through the ranks.
climbing sherpa: is responsible fixed the rope and guide you to the summit
The Cook is responsible for all meals and is on a trek that doesn’t use lodges for meals. (camping trek )
The Kitchen-boy is an assistant to the cook. ( camping trek )
The Assistant Guide is actively helping clients under the leader’s direction and set camp.
The Porter is the load carrier for the trekking group. As Nepal is a mountain country with few roads, porters are employed to carry loads. Compliance with regulations and common courtesy dictates the maximum weight carried and the minimum wage paid. Porters are provided with gear based on the routes they follow and with insurance for alpine treks.
Each trekker is allotted the following maximum weights per person: Lodge (tea house) Accommodations: 15 kg maximum; Tent Camping: 22 kg maximum; Expeditions/summit ascents: 20 kg maximum. The porters are given a premium wage for carrying loads over 30 kg. In addition, the Nepal Alpinist Club takes care to take out insurance for the Guide and porters. Specific equipment is allocated to them for crossing passes at altitude (even if wearers often refuse to put on shoes due to lack of habit).
Accommodations in Kathmandu
In Kathmandu, you will accommodate in a hotel. We use different hotels depending on availability. The two preferred hotels are:
Hotel Ramada: Located in the heart of Thamel, this hotel is ideal for walking the bustling streets of Kathmandu. The spacious rooms all have a bathroom, air conditioning, and Wi-Fi. A fully equipped and active dining room is available for all meals, and the breakfast buffet offers a wide choice of foods. The hotel offers currency exchange, laundry services, and luggage storage.
Sampada Garden: Located just 20 minutes on foot from Thamel and Durbar Square, this hotel is convenient for exploring Kathmandu. The rooms have all the necessary comforts for your stay: air conditioning, bathroom, and Wi-Fi. Breakfasts are served as a generous buffet. The hotel provides currency exchange, laundry services, and luggage storage.
Accommodation during the peak climbing
For camping, accommodation during the expedition: during the expedition, breakfasts, Lunch, and Dinner are prepared by the kitchen team. They are taken to the mess tent. additional energy food is provided. Purchased locally, they offer a more limited. You can, if you wish, bring some complementary cereal bars adapted to your taste.
For lodge accommodation: meals are prepared by the cooks of the lodge and are taken from the lodge's dining room.
Here is a typical one-day menu:
breakfast: eggs, toast or chapati, or Tibetan bread or pancakes, or pancakes, butter/jam, tea or coffee
Lunch: a main course, tea or coffee
Dinner: soup, main course, fruit (fresh or canned), tea or coffee
During the trek, tea or coffee is served with meals. Two cups per person are included. Apart from these included menus, other drinks and foodstuffs will be at your expense.
Water: provide tablets (Hydroclonazone, Micropur, or another type) to disinfect the water you put in your water bottle, depending on the source and on the advice of your guide. It is sometimes possible to buy purified water and refill your water bottle without having to buy bottled water. You can also buy mineral water in the cities (not included in the price) but its ecological balance is poor, as you know. Also, we do not recommend it.
Preparation for the Trek
Preparing for the trek requires several months of preparation with 4 to 6-hour walks every weekend for stamina and participating in a sport that required short periods of high exertion.
Medical check-up
Being in good health is essential to fully enjoy your Alpinist Club trip. If your last medical visit was more than four years ago, please get another general physical exam and tell your doctor the nature of your trip (climate, altitude, difficulty, etc.). The altitude also has the effect of reviving dental problems or other chronic pain, so getting a dental checkup is also prudent. If you are undertaking a high-altitude expedition, we advise you to consult a mountain medicine specialist.
Acute Mountain Sickness
This trip takes place at high altitudes, so some people may experience altitude-related discomforts like headaches, loss of appetite, and swelling of limbs. Most of these symptoms usually go away within a few days, but sometimes they can develop into a serious illness: pulmonary or cerebral edema. There are no preventive drugs for AMS. Diamox diuretic is often effective for symptomatic relief, but you should first check with your doctor to verify that it is not contraindicated for you. Think about it before you go.
Your Personal Trekking and climbing Gear
- woolen hat
- fleece hat
- T-shirt
- Thermal full t-shirt
- Fleece jacket
- Down jacket
- light insulating wear (mid-layer)
- Gore-Tex jacket
- Thermal Trouser (base layer)
- Trekking trouser (flexible )
- down pant
- Gore-Tex pants
- Gore-Tex gloves
- thin / warm gloves
- Rain punch
- woolen shock (thick
- sandal
- camp shoes (sports shoe)
- Trekking boot
- sun /glacier glass (uv protection )
- snow gaiter
- sleeping bags
- personal first aid
- pocket knife
- washing soap, towel, tooth pest/ brush
- sun lotion enough +30 /50 & lip guard
- Trekking poles
- headlights, water bottles, Thermos
- books, a camera, playing car
climbing gear
- alpine boot
- crampons (good condition )and fit for alpine boot
- ATC Guide
- Ascender (jumar)
- screwgate carabiner
- open gate carabineer
- ice Axe normal
- ice screw 22m
- auxiliary cord 8m in length with 6mm diameter
- dynamic safety cord - 3m length with 8mm diameter
- harness
- tape sling- 180cm- 120 cm
