BARUNTSE EXPEDITION 7,129M | BARUNTSE DIFFICULTY

BARUNTSE EXPEDITION 7,129M

Group Size

2-15 person

meal

breakfast, lunch, dinner

accomodation

hotel, lodge,tent

arrival on

kathmandu

departure from

kathmandu

trip level

moderate

max. altitude

7,000m

Best season

Autumn, Spring

trip highlights

  • The ascent of the first 7,000 in Nepal
  • The ascent of Mera Peak at 6,476 m
  • Splendid views of the 8,000m
  • A human adventure beyond the physical challenge

 

Baruntse expedition 7,129 m

Baruntse expedition 7,129 m is standing at the border of the Everest and Makalu range. The Baruntse is fantastic climbing in the Eastern Himalayas of Nepal. Isolated by vast expanses of ice, its access is relatively difficult. We cross the Mera la Pass and take the opportunity to climb Mera peak (6470m).  therefore, those who wish, to climb Mera Peak at 6,461 m also can join the Baruntse base camp. However, We ascents via the West Col route which is opened by Eric Shipton and Edmund Hillary in 1952.

We Walk in the heart of the splendid Hunku valleys, between sparkling glaciers and lakes, which allows excellent acclimatization. Finally, our assault on the south ridge will be carried out from the Barun range. Its extraordinary panoramic view of Ama Dablam, Mt. Lhotse, and Mt. Makalu. We will be in the heart of the highest mountains in the world.

Baruntse expedition is good preparation for more Technical Mountain climbing or even the first 8000. Generally, It does not present any technical difficulties. But the weather conditions at very high altitudes should not underestimate which has discouraged more than one. The slopes do not exceed 45 °, it is necessary to be able to evolve in an autonomous roped party. The most favorable period for the climb of Baruntse is autumn (September to November) and spring (April to mid-May).

Itinerary

Arrival in Kathmandu. you are greeted at the airport by our team and then transferred to our hotel. Evening briefing from your guide.

Approximately 15 hours of driving to the hotel
Final altitude: approximately 13,50 m
Meals:  dinner
Accommodation: night in the hotel

We reserve this day for sightseeing in Kathmandu Valley and to prepare for trekking. After having a warm breakfast, we will leave the hotel in a private vehicle with an experienced tour guide. We will visit several UNESCO-listed world heritage sites in Kathmandu valley and the famous sacred Hindu temple, the Pashupatinath temple, Swayambhunath stupa, and Boudhanath stupa. These places are famous to have inherited ancient religious practices, architecture, and culture.

Final altitude: approximately 13,50 m
Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: Night in the hotel.

Very early departure (between 2 am and 4 am) for Ramechapp airport. On your arrival, a breakfast near the airport will be organized before taking your flight to Lukla. On your arrival in Lukla, organize the loads with the porters and the sherpas then start the trek. We cross a shoulder to a sheepfold then a big climb awaits us before a “Nepalese dish” in a rhododendron forest. We descend slightly and cross a torrent before ascending to the hamlet of Thukdingma. There is only one last zigzag climb in the middle of a forest to reach the  Chutanga village.

Approximately Transfer: 4 to 5 h drive and 15 min flight to Lukla
Final altitude: approximately 3,250 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

From Chutanga we hike up a winding path through a wooded slope towards the austere gorge which dominates the village. Through the forest, we can make out Chutanga below and even the tall houses of Lukla and in the distance the mountains that border the Thame valley. We reach the Kharkateng lodge and continue on an excellent trail but often snowy or even icy in autumn (poles recommended). We go up the slope under a rocky part to reach a grassy shoulder. The view of the Himalayas now widens to Cho Oyuo 8,153-meter peak located on the Tibetan border straddling the valleys of Thame and Gokyo lakes. From the pass, we descend to cross the Hinku Khola valley and a new pass, the Zatra La (4,570), which can be seen at the height at the bottom of the valley.

5 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 41,50 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

We descend in the direction of the valley to find a path on the side of the cliff which gives access to a valley. We cross it and cross a ridge. The trail continues by crossing a new valley until arriving in front of a scree corridor that we go up on a superb arranged staircase. We cross a shoulder that gives access to a balcony path from which we discover the Hinku valley dominated by the Mera peak. We descend into a forest of rhododendrons and then reach the site of Thulo Dunga. The descent continues on the cliffside. A “Nepalese flat” then leads us to Tashing Dingman followed by a severe climb up the cliffside on a steep staircase to pass a shoulder before descending on the other side to overlook the Hinku Khola from the edge of the moraine. The atmosphere is very austere. The trail now remains very close to the river that we finally leave by going up into a pine forest. We arrive at Khote.

Approximately 3 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 35,50 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

From the village of Khote, we continue along the river with the south face of Mera peak in our sights. We pass the confluence of the Hinku Khola with the Sanu Khola and discover mountains that complete the panorama to the left of the Kyashar. A slow ascent on the stony moraine then we go up through the boulders along the river to Saure. The climb continues pleasantly through mountain pastures to Duk gompa, located in a cave. Then we move away from the river to climb the moraine to a sheepfold to finish on the stony flat of the Thangnag moraine basin. The village is located behind a large pile of pebbles facing the impressive heights of moraines that descend from the glacial complex of Mera peak. The views of the peaks are splendid:

5 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 42,40 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

Acclimatization day at the altitude with the optional ascent of a panoramic grassy ridge above the village towards Thangnag Ri up to 4,900 meters or a little more. Beautiful view overlooking all the glacial valleys that have been carved out at the foot of the mountains, from Gonghla to Mera peak. Nice conditioning… Return to the village at the beginning of the afternoon.

5 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 4,240 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

We leave the village crossing the stony moraine to find the start of the Mera La trail which is at the foot of a grassy moraine. The summit of Kyashar presents a vertical rock face that ends at a sharp point while at the rear we contemplate the succession of the glacial crest of the Charpote Himal of Kusum Kanguru and Gonghla. We progress on the flat and follow a sandy expanse then we go up again to reach a flat area. We set foot on a grassy moraine before discovering the first houses of Khare under Peak 41.

5 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 4,860 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

Acclimatization and practice of the mountaineering technique on a glacier towards Mera-la. This is the opportunity to check everyone’s equipment and to familiarize themselves with (crampons, ice ax, helmet, harness, and jumar handle).

5 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 4,900 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the tent

We climb the moraine to cross the Mera La at 5,415 meters. The mountain circus is strikingly beautiful. We pass a shoulder then scree from where we see the Mera Peak, then the Kangtega. Crossing the pass does not present any difficulties and the views of Kusum Kanguru and peak 41 are superb. We reach the Mera La base camp located on the side of the Hunku Khola valley at the foot of the Naulekh. At the beginning of the afternoon, a little practice of the technique of mountaineering on the icy slopes of the southern slope of Mera La. This is the opportunity to check everyone’s equipment and to familiarize themselves with (crampons, ice ax, helmet, harness, and Jumar handle).

5h30m of walking
Final altitude: around 5,350 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a tent

From the base camp of Mera Peak, we go up to the pass on the side of the glacial tongue than on snow slopes. Behind us: Everest and Nuptse are revealed then Makalu and Kangchenjunga appear in a pass between two peaks. The fifth 8000 of the day finally appears: the Cho Oyu. We arrive at Mera Peak High Camp, located near the rocky outcrop at the foot of the Mera Glacier.

5 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 58,00 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the tent

For those who wish and who feel sufficiently acclimatized, and if the weather permits, this day is used to make the ascent of Mera Peak to 6,461 meters. This ascent is a plus in this expedition but it should not make us forget the objective which is, ten days later, the ascent of the Baruntse. from the summit at 6,461 meters from where we admire the most prestigious Himalayan peaks including four 8,000 m: Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Kangchenjunga. But also Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Baruntse, and the south face of Lhotse. The descent is long to reach Kongme Dingma. The trail follows the Honga Khola River. Baruntse and the south face of Lhotse. The descent is long to reach Kongme Dingma. The trail follows the Honga Khola River. Baruntse and the south face of Lhotse. The descent is long to reach Kongme Dingma. The trail follows the Honga Khola River.

Approximately 9-11 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 58,00 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the tent

We reach the Chamlang camp. Chamlang is a summit at 7,319 m climbed for the first time on May 31, 1962, by a Japanese team.

Approximately 4 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 58,00 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the tent

 

Today we reach the Baruntse base camp which we will establish about 5,350 m on the shore of Lake Baruntse. We set up camp and settle there.

Approximately 4 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 58,00 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the tent

10 useful days with 2/3 days of beating possible in case of bad weather. We then define our ascension program. As an illustration, the ascension program may look like this:

D15: Rest at base camp (5,350 m) and definition of approach tactics.

D16: Ascent to altitude camp at 6,100 meters. We go up for 2 to 3 hours a moraine which leads to the foot of the corridor of the West Pass. The ascent of the couloir begins with an easy mix with fixed ropes. Then it’s a 40 ° snow slope up to the pass and always equipped with fixed ropes.

D17: Return to base camp.
Rest at the base camp (5,350 m).

D18: Rest at the base camp (5,350 m).

D19: Rest at the base camp (5,350 m).

D20: Ascent to the camp 1 to 6,100 meters and night in a tent at C1. See description of day 16.

D21: Ascent to camp 2 at 6500 meters and overnight in tents at C2. From the C1, we start on a flat 300 m and a gentle slope that goes around a few crevasses. You then come out on another slope still slightly inclined for about 200 m in height. Then we arrive then on a large plateau where we set up the camp at 6500 m. From here we see most of the route to the top ridge and the summit.

D22: Ascent of the summit of Baruntse at 7,129 meters. At the start a flat for 150 m then the first slope at 30 ° which leads to a “false pass”. Then we go up towards a rimaye that we bypass on the left then a new slope for 200 m then a new rimaye. We then climb the beginning of the summit ridge very exposed to the wind. A succession of jumps leads us on the last part of the ridge to the summit. After being congratulated, we go back down to spend the night at C1 or C2.

Number of hours of walking : 9 to 10 hours from C2 to the top then return

We are heading towards the foot of the Amphu Lapsa, a glacier pass that is taken during the expeditions that come or go to Makalu. We evolve in an atmosphere of high mountains, rugged and moraine.

Approximately 4 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 5,360 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the tent

We climb to cross the pass of Amphu Lapsa, tacking between the seracs of the glacier on the south face. From the passage of the pass, exceptional peripheral view on the high mountains of Khumbu with at the bottom the moraine valley of Imja glacier. After contemplation, a bit of seriousness by following on a stony track on the north face to reach the start of a rocky and icy corridor that the management team will secure (abseiling or top rope) for about fifty meters before being able to access to the glacier supply basin. Then, following the wide edge of the lateral moraine, we reach in constant descent the hamlet of Chukhung located on the “classic” trekking path of the high passes of Everest.

Approximately 9 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 44,70 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

Today we traverse the Khumbu River on a wooden suspension bridge and walk following the Imja Khola to the community of Pangboche trek for around 5 hours today.

6 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 39,00 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

Today, we will walk beside the river and, after coming across we make our way up through birch and rhododendron forest to Tengboche. From Tengboche, we move down to the bridge above the Dudh Koshi at Phunki Tenga and then we return back to Namche. We will walk for around 5 hours. Tonight at a guest house in Namche.

5 hours of walking
Final altitude: 34,40 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

Following the track, we arrive at Lukla scaling different Sherpa villages and crossing a suspension bridge above Thado Kosh. For about 45 minutes, we go up to accomplish the whole trail and we reconfirm the flight ticket and see off to local porters

Approximately 6 hours of walking
Final altitude: 2,800 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

Flight to Ramechapp airport then transfer to Kathmandu. The flight is subject to weather conditions, a delay in the day of rotation is possible. This is why we always plan a reserve day in Kathmandu before resuming the international flight. Transfer to the hotel in Kathmandu and a free afternoon.

Night in the hotel. evening. Transfer: 15 min flight and 4 to 5 h drive.

Free day in Kathmandu also serves as a security day in case of problems on the Lukla / Kathmandu or during trekking. Today, you have a rest day to relax or you can also go shopping in Kathmandu or you can do anything you like to by yourself.

Final altitude: 1350 m
Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: night in the hotel

free time depending on the departure time of your flight and our representative will drop you at the airport, ending your journey in Nepal. We hope to be of service to you again. Thank you and safe travels.

inclusion

what's included

  • Pick up and drop off services for both international & domestic flights as per the itinerary
  • 3 nights Hotel in Kathmandu on bed & breakfast plan, 2 nights before and 1 night after the expedition
  • Both-ways domestic flights from KTM – Lukla – KTM with Airport tax
  • All necessary transportation for overall expeditions
  • All necessary Permits, National Park, and VDC fees
  • Summit route fixing charge
  • Garbage disposal and management fees
  • 3 Meals a day (BLD) during the trek Freshly cooked meals (Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner): with hot drinks, Tea and Coffee
  • 1 Professional Climbing Sherpa with his equipment allowance, daily wages, and carrying bonus
  • Government Liaison officer with his daily wages, equipment, food, insurance, and transportation
  • Base Camp Sardar, Cook, and Kitchen helpers with their equipment allowance and daily wages
  • Porters up to the Base Camp and return from the Base camp
  • Each Member will be provided with an individual Tent, Mattress, and Pillow
  • Common Equipment: Dining Tent, Kitchen Tent, Shower Tent, Toilet Tent, Tables and Chairs, Heater etc.
  • High Camp Services for C1-C2- C3: High Tent, Shovel, Rope, EPI Gas, High Food like soup items, tea/coffee etc.
  • Walkie-talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp
  • A satellite phone is available for emergency use at $5 per minute
  • Weather forecast during the entire expedition
  • In case of emergencies, sufficient Oxygen and Mask regulator are available at our Base camp (chargeable as per use)
  • Helicopter rescue insurance for involved outdoor Nepali staff
  • Alpinist  Duffel Bags (if required)
  • First Aid medical kit
  • Farewell dinner with expedition staff in a Nepali typical restaurant with a cultural show in Kathmandu
  • Government Taxes and Company Service Charge
  • Amadablam summit certificates after the successful summit of the peak

what's not included

The price does not include

  • Cancellation/interruption of stay/loss of luggage insurance and assistance.
  • international flight ticket
  • All that is not indicated in the section “The price includes”

Your expenses on site

  • international flight ticket
  • visa fees on arrival
  • Personal Trekking and Climbing Gears
  • Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu
  • Phone calls, internet, battery recharge, laundry, alcoholic beverages, bottled and canned beverages, specialty coffee or espresso drinks, etc.
  • Any additional luggage on domestic flights.
  • Summit Bonus for Climbing Sherpa US $600.00
  • Tips

Tips for Cook, Kitchen helpers, porters, and Guide

Tips are an integral part of the country’s culture. This gesture of thanks, which varies according to the itinerary and the duration, has become an obligation. A prize pool is created, given at the end of the trip to the members of the team.

However, it is important that the tip remains a gratuity, as our teams are also very well paid. We invite you to distribute tips only if the service has met your expectations and to reduce this sum if the services were not sufficient, explaining why in order to consolidate our educational work.

Accomodation & meal

Kathmandu and trekking

 In a 3/4* category hotel in Kathmandu.

During the trek, we will be either in an individual tent or in a lodge. The lodges in Nepal are of very random comfort. The lodges can look like a refuge or sometimes a cottage from home. It is mostly a family house with double, triple, or dormitory rooms. Toilets and showers are always separate.

Base camp
At the base camp, we are in individual tents.

Staying in the base for several weeks must be as comfortable as possible, in order to allow a good recovery on the return from the altitude camps. It must allow us to face a period of bad weather in the best possible conditions. Each participant has their own individual tent with a comfortable mattress. A heated mess tent is the main living area. Tables and chairs are permanently installed there. We also have a shower tent and a WC tent (the solid waste in evacuated drums)

High camps
During the ascent, at the high camps, we have an altitude tent for 2 people or even 3 people on the last camps.

Hygiene & laundry

Toilets: The base camp is equipped with toilets (cans removed and emptied in a suitable place far from the glacier) and toilet paper. Take care to wash your hands with a hydro-alcoholic gel (to be taken from your personal pharmacy) after each visit to the toilet. For the higher camps, we recommend that you bring a bottle that you will use to urinate at night to avoid having to go out.

Daily hygiene: a basin with soap and water is available at the entrance to the mess tent. Water is intended for washing the face and hands, do not drink it.

Shower: hot water available (request to be made in the kitchen). Only take showers in sunny weather to avoid catching a cold!

Laundry: water (cold) and basin to be requested from the kitchen, bring biodegradable products only.

Meal

Kathmandu and trekking
Upon your arrival in Kathmandu, a welcome dinner is offered to you on the first evening. Likewise, upon returning from the expedition, a farewell meal is provided.

In the cities, many small (or large) restaurants allow us to discover the typical local cuisine. With the exception of Kathmandu, breakfasts and evening meals are prepared by the lodge’s kitchen staff or cooks and taken in the lodge’s dining room or in the mess tent. Depending on the profile of the stages (length of the day’s walk and/or presence of water), midday snacks will be served hot or cold in the form of picnics.

Base camp
All meals are prepared by the kitchen team using local ingredients including rice, pasta, lentils, potatoes, vegetables, eggs, a little meat, etc. They are served to you in a private tent. Non-alcoholic hot drinks such as tea or coffee are offered to you at will. We recommend that you stay hydrated at all times.

High camps
At altitude, you often have to force yourself to eat. The use of freeze-dried food is almost unavoidable. But such and such a dish, appetizing in the valley, quickly becomes subject to disgust in the altitude camps. During the preparation weekend, we bring a sample of freeze-dried dishes for you to taste to indicate your preferences which we strive to respect (depending on the stocks available during the final purchases). You can also bring along some of your favorite meals on the expedition (if you have any). For your comfort and the pleasure of taste, we provide some “delicacies” from France (salty and sweet).

Each tent has a stove to melt snow (MSR Reactor type) and make water for your freeze-dried meals and hot drinks. The necessary gas cartridges are supplied.

WATER: provide tablets (Hyclonazone, Micropur, or others) to disinfect the water you put in your water bottle, depending on the source and on the advice of your guide. It is sometimes possible to buy purified water and refill your water bottle without having to buy bottled water. You can also buy “mineral” water in the cities (not included in the price), but its ecological balance is poor, as you know. Also, we do not recommend it.

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  • duration :

    35 days
  • difficulty level :

    moderate

price from

8555$per person

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