Overview
We set out to climb Dhaulagiri, the seventh-highest mountain in the world. The route we chose was along the northern ridge, which is direct and stunning but challenging because of the steep slopes. The climb up the Chhonbardan Glacier, just above the base camp, is the most dangerous section. It's best to avoid this area around midday when avalanches are most likely. The northern ridge itself has fewer risks, but there are three camps along the way. However, bad weather is a serious concern, as it can trap climbers in high-altitude camps for days, making the climb even more difficult.
Itinerary
Expand AllUpon your arrival in Kathmandu, our local team warmly welcomes you at the airport. You will then be escorted to the hotel, where you can enjoy some well-deserved relaxation. The itinerary includes a briefing about the trek's progress and presentation, followed by leisure time. If you arrive in the morning, you'll have the entire day at your disposal. This can be used for rest or for those interested, to explore the surroundings freely. It's an ideal chance to deeply experience Nepalese culture and indulge in the local culinary delights.
Transfer to hotel
Final altitude: Approximately 1350 m
Meals: Dinner
Accommodation: Night in the hotel
We reserve this day for sightseeing in Kathmandu Valley and to prepare for trekking. After having a warm breakfast, we will leave the hotel in a private vehicle with an experienced tour guide. We will visit several UNESCO-listed world heritage sites in Kathmandu Valley the famous Swayambhunath stupa, and the Boudhanath stupa. These places are famous for having inherited ancient religious practices, architecture, and culture. But also make the last purchases if necessary and above all optimize the luggage in a mountaineering bag and a trekking bag.
Superb half-hour flight: Langtang, Manaslu, Annapurna, and in the distance, the white pyramid of Dhaulagiri. The afternoon was devoted to the briefing.
Transport: airplane
Flight duration: approximately 30 minutes
Final altitude: 900 m
Meals: Breakfast at the hotel
Accommodation: Night at a hotel
Many trails under construction modify the landscape and access each year. The classic start is from the village of Darbang, reached from Pokhara by a chaotic dirt track that crosses many villages, in the middle of terraced crops. The Ghurja Himal which adjoins the Dhaulagiri range is in the background.
Transportation: by private vehicle
Duration of transfer/transportation: approximately 4 hours walking: about 5 h
Final altitude: About 1,180 m
Meals: breakfast at the hotel – lunch at the lodge – dinner
Accommodation: Night in a tent
The path begins to climb for two hours to reach the village of Dharapani (1,562 m). Unobstructed view of the Punta Hiunchuli and the Dhaulagiri. Two more hours of climbing and a pleasant balcony path lead to Sabang. Mostly populated by Thakali and Gurung.
Walking: about 5 h
Final altitude: about 1,750 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a tent
The balcony path continues to join the course of the Dhara Khola which we cross on a solid suspension bridge. Rough climb then the path in the balcony to reach the village of Muri (1,850 m), populated by Kami. The mountains are getting closer. Two hours of descent lead to the bridge over the Myagdi Khola. New suspension bridge. We pass on the orographic left bank. The trail alternates uphill and downhill to the village of Jugapani.
walking: about 6 h
Final altitude: approximately 2,050 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a tent
The path descends towards the river, a new suspension bridge to go back to the right bank of the Myagdi Khola. Arrival at the village of Boghara (2080 m). The trail becomes more austere, with many narrow passages carved into the cliff where porters must exercise caution with their loads. Descent to Lipshe on the banks of the Myagdi Khola for lunch. The rest of the path continues in the middle of a dense forest and climbs steadily. Dobang, a vast clearing with a few huts, is our camp.
Walking: About 5 h
Final altitude: approximately 2,260 m
Meals: Breakfast -Lunch - Dinner
Accommodation: Night in a tent
The path still runs through the forest. The sturdy bridges give way to more uncertain footbridges, such as the one allowing to cross the Konaban Khola, then again the Myagdi Khola, of which we follow the left bank again.Overnight at Soligari mountain pasture (also called Choriban).
Walking: About 5 h
Final altitude: Approximately 3,100 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in a tent
We are entering the domain of glaciers and their long moraines. Several base camps are easily accessible: the American, the Italian, the Japanese, the Swiss and finally the French. You are at the foot of Dhaulagiri II (7,751 m), Dhaulagiri III (7,715 m), and Dhaulagiri V (7,618 m) which dominate the camp to the northwest. The camps are installed on the terminal moraine of the Chhonbardan glacier which will soon have to be climbed.
Walking: About 5 hours
Final altitude: 3,650 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in a tent
Indispensable day to complete our acclimatization.The fittest can walk between the different camps.
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation:Night in a tent
A long day of strenuous walking in uncomfortable mountainous terrain. An avalanche cone at the foot of the west face of Dhaulagiri must be bypassed. Access to the moraine may require the laying of a few meters of fixed rope to help the carriers, especially if snow is present. A vast cave which sometimes serves as a shelter marks the path. The route then turns east to ascend the lower slopes covered in morainic debris of the Chhonbardan glacier. Around 4,220 meters, a succession of platforms can make it possible to set up an intermediate camp for better acclimatization. If the group is already well acclimatized, we continue on the glacier to reach the base camp of Dhaulagiri, located around 4,750 meters. Used for several years on different expeditions.
Walking: about 7 h
Final altitude: 4,650 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in a tent
Difficulty level: PD/AD for the entire route, but significant objective dangers in bad weather conditions. AD for the steepest sections that are between Camps 1 and 2 ( Icefall ), II and III, and in the couloir that leads to the summit ridge. Three altitude camps are necessary to make the ascent, along the northeast ridge.
Basecamp: 4,650m - Camp 1: 5,800m - Camp 2: 6,800m - Camp 3: 7,400m
From base camp (5,800 m) to camp 1 (5,800 m)
The Icefall (ice waterfall), is avoided by its left bank by rising in the slopes resulting from the "Eiger". The first climbers thus named the wall that dominates the glacier, whose slopes are reminiscent of the north face of the famous Swiss mountain. In the middle of the day, avalanches and rockfalls are frequent. It is imperative to cross at times when the frost is most marked and not to be there just after a snowfall. The camp is on the vast glacial plateau that follows the icefall, below the Northeast Col. It is exposed to the wind.
From Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6,800 m)
It is necessary to circumvent the seracs which defend the access to the northeast ridge. The slope straightens with 50° jumps which may be ice and are very exposed to the wind. Fixed strings. The camp will be set up as high as possible taking into account the seracs and the risk of avalanches. Route entirely in snow and ice, no mixed passages with rock.
From Camp 2 to Camp 3 (7,400m)
Always follow the profile of the ridge, with many sections in ice, around 50° of the slope. Camp 3 is set up where the route leaves the ridge to set foot on the hanging glacier. From camp 3 to the summit (8,167 m) The crossing is exposed to the risk of avalanche where any slip is prohibited. You have to reach the corridor leading to the summit. Steep and avalanche slopes. At the top of the corridor, to gain a foothold on the end of the summit ridge, a cornice can be tricky to cross. We follow the ridge for a hundred meters.
Meals: Breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in a tent
The time for return has come. You must first cross the "French Pass" (5,360 m) marked with numerous cairns and prayer flags, then cross the long "Hidden Valley". The camp is located on a mountain pasture (Yak Kharka) at the foot of Dhampus Pass.
Walking: about 6 h
Final altitude: 5,180 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge or a tent
Last and long day of the trek. You must first climb the slopes that lead to Dhampus Pass (5,260 m) which offers a beautiful view of the Tukuche, and the proud Nilgiri on the opposite side (Annapurna). A long steep and uncomfortable descent follows, crossing several ravines, before reaching the last ridge to plunge towards the hamlet of Marpha and the long valley of the Kali Gandaki.
Walking: About 8 h
Final altitude: About 4,100 m
Meals: Breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in a lodge
We find our vehicles to go down to Pokhara by changing transport three times (each district has its own bus line). Chaotic road to Tatopani, better to Pokhara.
Transportation: By private vehicle/approximately 8 hours
Final altitude: about 900 m
Meals: Breakfast – lunch
Accommodation: Overnight at a hotel
Transfer to the airport and return flight to Kathmandu. Transfer to the hotel and last free hours in Nepal's capital.
Transportation: by plane / 30 minutes
Final altitude: about 1,300 m
Meals: Breakfast Accommodation: at the hotel
Reserve day, free and without a guide.
Meals: breakfast at the hotel
Accommodation: night at the hotel
Free time depending on the departure time of your flight and our representative will drop you at the airport, ending your journey in Nepal. We hope to be of service to you again. Thank you and safe travels.
Included & Excluded
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ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE :
Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by a private vehicle.
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HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU :
4-night hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) - single room on bed and breakfast plan.
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WELCOME DINNER :
One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office’s Staff.
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PERMITS :
Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Annapurna Conservation area entry permits and fee.
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LIAISON OFFICER :
1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
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GARBAGE MANAGEMENT :
Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit Fees.
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INSURANCE :
Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
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MAP :
Trekking and climbing map.
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DUFFLE BAG :
One Alpinist club Duffle Bag.
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MEMBER TRANSPORTATION: Land Transportation :
Drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara, and while returning Machha Khola to Kathmandu, as per itinerary.
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EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION :
All necessary equipment transportation for all Members and Staff
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MEMBER LUGGAGE :
Up to 50 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters or Yaks.
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FOOD AND LODGING :
3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and fresh green vegetables, fresh meat, fruits, soft drinks, and juice will be served regularly during the entire expedition using helicopter flights. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
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PORTER :
Porter per member up to and from Base camp (both ways).
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BASE CAMP STAFF :
Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
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STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE :
All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
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BASE CAMP TENT :
Each member will have an individual box tent in Base Camp.
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BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT :
Single Tent, foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dining Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 staff tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tents, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
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HEATER :
Heater at base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.
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SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT :
Solar panel or Generator for battery charge and light at base camp for use.
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TRAINING :
Oxygen, Mask Regulator, Ice wall, and Ladder training at Basecamp by a professional guide.
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HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA :
Governments-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.
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ASSISTANCE :
Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.
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CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE :
Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.
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OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2) :
Summit Oxygen: oxygen bottles (4 ltrs.) for each member and 1 oxygen bottle for each high-altitude Sherpa.
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OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR :
1 set of Summit Oxygen masks and regulator for each member and high-altitude Sherpa, which has to be returned after the expedition.
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BACK-UP OXYGEN :
Back up the Oxygen Cylinder, mask, and regulator (with appropriate charge).
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HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) :
High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) (C3), and (C4). Group climbing gears, and fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
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HIGH CAMP KITCHEN AND DINING :
Will have one cook, kitchen, and dining tents in Camp I and Camp II.
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HIGH ALTITUDE TENT :
Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).
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ROPE FIXING TEAM :
The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the route on Manaslu (no extra charge will be applied to members).
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SATELLITE PHONE :
Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, is also available for members with appropriate charge.
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WALKIE-TALKIE :
Walkie–Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
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PERMITS :
Satellite Phone/Walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
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INTERNET SERVICE :
Internet facility (1 Mbps) will be available at the Base Camp (subject to a charge).
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WEATHER FORECAST :
Weather forecast report regularly during the entire expedition.
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MEDICAL KIT :
Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff. |
| CERTIFICATE : Mt. Dhaulagiri climbing certificate (after climbing Mt.Dhaulagiri successfully). |
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AIR FARE :
International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
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NEPAL ENTRY VISA FEE :
The Nepalese Visa fee is $125 USD for 90 Days.
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LUNCH & DINNER :
Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
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EXTRA NIGHTS IN KATHMANDU :
Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
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INSURANCE POLICY :
Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high altitude rescue & air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory
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PERSONAL EXPENSES :
Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).
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PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT :
Clothing, Packing Items, Bags, Personal Medical Kit, and all kinds of Personal Trekking / Climbing Gear.
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TOILETRIES :
Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
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FILMING :
Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
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INTERNET SERVICE :
Not included during the trek.
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SUMMIT BONUS :
Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa- Minimum 1500 USD.
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TIPS :
Calculate some tips for Basecamp staff – Minimum 400 USD.
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Trip Organization
DHAULAGIRI EXPEDITION DETAILS
Your guide, from your arrival in Kathmandu until your departure, is responsible for the success of your trip and oversees your team. Do not hesitate to ask him questions, respect his position as the team leader, and above all follow his advice! Often your guide is the only English-speaking member of the team. In the mountains and, especially during high-altitude travels, your guide is responsible for the group's safety. The instructions he gives and the remarks he makes to all participants must be carefully followed. The interest and safety of the trekking group must be preserved, even when it may be to the detriment of an individual member of the group.
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YOUR PRIVATE GUIDE IN CLIMBING DHAULAGIRI
The keystone of your success on all of our expeditions is that we are systematically on a ratio of one high-altitude sherpa per participant. He accompanies you for the key moments of the ascent and during the summit push. He is particularly experienced in high altitudes. He has participated in several expeditions at more than 8,000 meters, successfully leading participants to the summit. We select him for you. He is generally English-speaking. He may not be permanently at your side in the rotations between the camps, his role also being to carry out the portages to set up the camps.
There is a summit bonus for your high-altitude sherpa to be paid on-site in cash after the climb. This bonus is due from the moment you leave the last camp towards the summit during your summit push attempt.
EXPEDITION LEADER IN THE DHAULAGIRI EXPEDITION
His role is important in leading the strategy necessary for success: rotation in the altitude camps, acclimatization of each participant, and study of weather reports to decide on the optimum moment to launch the summit push.
The expedition leader represents the Alpinist Club to the group, . Mainly based at the base camp, he can accompany you to the high-altitude camps to supervise the smooth running of the expedition's logistics. He makes the necessary decisions that may be required. His authority is preponderant and unavoidable. You must respect his decisions as well as those taken collectively.
LOCAL PORTER TEAM DURING THE DHAULAGIRI EXPEDITION
Our experienced team is uniquely equipped to address the key challenges of a Himalayan expedition: technical supervision and equipment transport. With over 10 years of refinement, our optimized operation assigns clear roles to ensure individual and collective success.
A kitchen team will be present at the Dhaulagiri base camp.
There is a team of porters who help us set up the base camp with all the equipment and the kitchen. Beyond that, the team of high-altitude sherpas takes over. They help us in particular in setting up the high altitude camps and in portaging from the base camp.
Each participant will have to take care of carrying their personal belongings and altitude food. The collective equipment is transported by the Nepalese team. Our backpack will be calibrated from 10 to 12 kg.
For unforeseeable reasons at this stage, including weather but also fitness or lack of fitness of the participants, your guide may have to adapt or even interrupt your program, at any time if he deems it necessary, whether for the whole group or for a few participants, and for the smooth running of your trip. He remains the sole judge and guarantor of your safety.
DHAULAGIRI CLIMBING DIFFICULTY LEVEL
1: Physical level: extreme
This program is aimed at very experienced participants, with the physical and mental condition of a high-level athlete.
It is given as "extreme difficulty" given the very high altitude at which you will be climbing. Manaslu is one of the highest mountains in the world: although the technical difficulties are relative, climbing the summit is nonetheless a difficult and sometimes even dangerous undertaking. The commitment is very pronounced during summit attempts.
This expedition is therefore intended for experienced mountaineers (comfortable in a PD/AD level in snow), who already have good experience of high altitude. It is essential to be totally autonomous in the mountains, both technically and psychologically. The expedition leader and the high-altitude sherpas are above all technical advisors and logistics managers. They cannot under any circumstances "pull" a participant to the summit.
of course, training is necessary, training focused on developing one's endurance and resistance capacities: running, cycling, swimming, ski touring and of course, mountain racing. This training must be regular and have started at least 6 to 8 months before the expedition leaves.
2: High Altitude
High altitude is the main challenge in climbing an 8,000-meter peak, as oxygen levels drop significantly (hypoxia). Gradual acclimatization is vital, especially in the first weeks. Take it slow, avoid overexertion, and listen to your body—symptoms like headaches and nausea are common but shouldn’t be ignored to prevent serious complications.
The expedition demands prolonged physical effort in harsh conditions, including cold and wind, so solid endurance and resistance training are essential. For those interested, we offer the option to climb without supplemental oxygen, though most use it from Camp 4 (7,500 m). A 1:1 ratio of altitude Sherpas to participants ensures personalized support during the summit push. Feel free to discuss your plans with us!
During the expedition, you must carry your personal belongings, as high-altitude Sherpas only transport collective equipment. For summit attempts, expect to carry a 6–8 kg bag, including oxygen bottles (4 kg).
The challenging environment—distance, cold, bad weather, and discomfort—can cause stress, fatigue, and mood changes. Good humor, tolerance, and respect for teammates and the local team are essential. While subgroups may form, team spirit is key to success.
3: Mountaineering level
This program requires the use of mountaineering equipment like crampons, harnesses, ice axes, and ropes. The route may include moderate challenges, such as steeper glacier sections, exposed walls, or sustained effort, all made harder by the altitude. Steep sections are equipped with fixed ropes, so proficiency with a self-blocking device is essential. This climb is for participants with prior mountaineering experience at a similar level.
The technical difficulty assumes normal weather conditions and can increase with poor weather, fresh snow, or low-quality ice. Factors like altitude, heavy packs, limited route equipment, and long approaches also make the climb more demanding.
ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU AND DHAULAGIRI EXPEDITION
- Hotel In Kathmandu: In Kathmandu, we will provide you with a single room in a hotel
- During the trek to Kanchenjunga: You will stay in the Lodge. Lodges in Nepal are very random in terms of comfort. Lodges can look like a refuge or sometimes a homestay. They are mostly family homes with double, triple, or dormitory rooms. Toilets and showers are always separate.
- Dhaulagiri Base Camp: At the base camp, we are in individual tents. A base camp for several weeks must be as comfortable as possible, to allow a good recovery on returning from the high-altitude camps. It must allow us to face a period of bad weather in the best possible conditions. Each participant has a tent with a comfortable mattress. A heated mess tent is the main living area. Tables and chairs are permanently installed there. We also have a shower tent and a toilet tent (solid waste in evacuated barrels)
- Dhaulagiri High Altitude Camps: During the ascent, at the high camps, we have a high-altitude tent for 2 people, or even 3 people at the last camps.
Hygiene & dry cleaning during the Dhaulagiri Expedition
- Toilets: The base camp has toilets and toilet paper. Be sure to wash your hands with hydroalcoholic gel (to be taken from your pharmacy) after each visit to the toilet. For the higher camps, we recommend that you bring a bottle that you will use to urinate at night to avoid having to go out.
- Daily hygiene: a basin with water and soap is available at the entrance to the mess tent. Water is intended for washing the face and hands, do not drink it.
- Shower: hot water is available (ask in the kitchen). Only take showers in sunny weather to avoid catching a cold!
- Laundry: water (cold) and basin to be requested from the kitchen, bring biodegradable products only.
MEAL IN KATHMANDU AND TREKKING DURING DHAULAGIRI EXPEDITION
Upon arrival in Kathmandu, a welcome dinner is provided on the first evening. Similarly, upon return from the expedition, a farewell meal is provided. In the cities, many small (or large) restaurants allow us to discover the typical local cuisine.
During the Trek: breakfasts and evening meals are prepared by the kitchen team or the lodge cooks and are taken in the lodge dining room or under the mess tent. Depending on the profile of the stages (length of the day's walk and/or presence of water), midday Lunch/ snacks will be served hot or cold in the form of picnics.
Here is a typical one-day menu during the trek:
- Breakfast: eggs, toast or chapati, or Tibetan bread or pancakes, or pancakes, butter/jam, tea or coffee
- Lunch: a main course, tea or coffee
- Dinner: soup, main course, fruit (fresh or canned), tea or coffee. During the trek, tea or coffee is served with meals. Two cups per person are included. Apart from these included menus, other drinks and foodstuffs will be at your expense.
- Water: Use purification tablets (Hydralazine, Micropur, or others) as advised by your guide, refill with purified water when possible, and avoid bottled mineral water due to its environmental impact.
DHAULAGIRI BASE CAMP MEAL: All meals are prepared by the kitchen team using local ingredients including rice, pasta, lentils, potatoes, vegetables, eggs, a little meat, etc. They are served to you in a Dining tent. Non-alcoholic hot drinks such as tea or coffee are offered to you at will. We recommend that you stay constantly hydrated.
DHAULAGIRI ALTITUDE CAMPS MEAL: at camp 2 our cook will prepare food for you. At high altitudes, eating can be difficult, and freeze-dried food is usually necessary. While this food might taste fine at lower elevations, it can quickly become unappealing in high-altitude camps.
we will provide freeze-dried dishes and share your preferences. We’ll do our best to match these, depending on available stock. You can also bring up your favorite foods for the expedition.
for higher camp, Each tent is equipped with a stove to melt snow for water, prepare freeze-dried meals, and make hot drinks. Gas cartridges will be provided
STAY HYDRATION: Bring water purification tablets (like Hydroclonazone or Micropur) to treat water, depending on the source and your guide's advice. Purified water may sometimes be available, reducing the need for bottled water, which is less eco-friendly.
Glacier meltwater lacks minerals, which your meals partly provide. However, relying only on tea, coffee, or plain water can lead to poor hydration, stomach issues, and mineral deficiencies on long expeditions. To avoid this, pack 2–3 tubes of mineral salt tablets (10 tablets per tube) to add to your water bottle.
TRANSFERS / TRANSPORT DURING TRIP
All transfers are provided in private vehicles.
For various reasons, we prefer trekking to reach the base camp: the progression designed for acclimatization allows you to prepare yourself physically and psychologically for the climb. It is also the ideal time to get to know the team and to start building team spirit and cohesion. The return is also planned as a trek. That said, the possibility of taking the helicopter on the way back is possible for an additional fee.
GROUP SIZE IN THE DHAULAGIRI CLIMBING ROUTE
The group is composed of 1 to 15 participants maximum. The number of participants is voluntarily limited to allow a better immersion, to not embarrass our hosts, to develop spaces of freedom and to allow a great flexibility of operation. However, the maximum number can be exceeded in the case where the last person who registers wishes to travel with another or several other people. The services will not be modified and the conditions of the trip will be identical as a result.
COLLECTIVE CAMP EQUIPMENT FOR DHAULAGIRI CLIMBING
All logistical equipment is provided, including individual tents at the base camp with mattresses, mess tent, shower tent and toilet tent, as well as all collective and individual cooking equipment. At altitude, tents, stoves with gas cartridges, ropes and anchors.
INDIVIDUAL EQUIPMENT
Personal equipment is not provided. A complete list is provided later in this document. It will be refined with us during the preparation days and up until the time of departure according to your questions.
High altitude sleeping bags, full suits and/or good quality down jackets are expensive items that you may not use often. We can rent you this specific equipment for the duration of the expedition. You must then return the equipment cleaned and in the condition in which it was given to you (deposit required).
OXYGEN OR WITHOUT OXYGEN FOR SUMMIT PUSH
For safety, high-altitude Sherpas always use supplemental oxygen at a reduced flow. Most participants begin using oxygen from Camp 4 (7,400 m), with some starting at Camp 3 (6,800 m). Your package includes 3 oxygen bottle and 1 regulator, and a mask for use from Camp 4. High-altitude porters transport these items to the camps.
If you wish to use oxygen before Camp 4, you must request it early. Extra cylinders are not included and must be paid for on-site. We also allow participants to attempt the summit without supplemental oxygen, thanks to a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio, enabling personalized ascent rhythms. Discuss this option with your expedition leader early to refine acclimatization. Note that no refunds are provided if you choose not to use oxygen. For safety, one oxygen bottle per participant is provided at Camp 4, regardless of use.
From Camp 4, two options are available for the summit push:
No oxygen bottle: The "purist" approach avoids extra weight but requires turning back if fatigue or slow pace becomes an issue. No second summit attempt is allowed.
Carry an oxygen bottle: Adds 4–5 kg to your pack but allows flexibility to use oxygen if needed during the climb.
SECURITY AND COMMUNICATION
We have at least one Iridium satellite phone that is used only for logistical, weather and security purposes. Under certain conditions, participants may use it. For these private uses, please contact us.
The camps will be permanently connected by radio. Expedition leader, participants and high-altitude sherpas will also have access to this.
The expedition will have a hyperbaric chamber at the base camp, and a complete, lighter pharmacy at the higher camps.
PREPARATION FOR DHAULAGIRI CLIMBING
Preparing for the trek requires several months of preparation with 4 to 6-hour walks every weekend for stamina and participating in a sport that requires short periods of high exertion.
MEDICAL CHECK-UP BEFORE GOING EXPEDITION
Being in good health is essential to enjoy your Alpinist Club trip fully. If your last medical visit was more than four years ago, please get another general physical exam and tell your doctor the nature of your trip (climate, altitude, difficulty, etc.). The altitude also has the effect of reviving dental problems or other chronic pain, so getting a dental checkup is also prudent. If you are undertaking a high-altitude expedition, we advise you to consult a mountain medicine specialist.
ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS
This trip takes place at high altitudes so some people may experience altitude-related discomforts like headaches, loss of appetite, and swelling of limbs. Most of these symptoms usually go away within a few days, but sometimes they can develop into a serious illness: pulmonary or cerebral edema. There are no preventive drugs for AMS. Diamox diuretic is often effective for symptomatic relief, but you should first check with your doctor to verify that it is not contraindicated. Think about it before you go.
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Trip Map
FAQ's
Expand AllDhaulagiri expedition can be done during pre-monsoon ( April – May ) and post-monsoon season( September- November ). These months are favorable due to the conditions and clear skies.
Yes, you need to acquire several permits for Dhaulagiri peak climbing. You need to pay for Nepal’s Government Expedition Royalty, trekking permits, and other conservation area entry permits for these this peak climbing.
Training will be provided to you based on acclimatization strategies, technical climbing techniques, and high-altitude safety protocols.
Our guide members carry satellite phones and walkie – talkies to communicate between climbers and emergency services.
Our guide members ensure the safety of the climbers is the priority. Regular health check ups, emergency response preparation, evacuation plans, and access to medical personnel and equipment.
As Dhaulagiri peak climbing is the high altitude peak climbing, it has various challenges. Challenges such as extreme weather conditions, high altitude sickness, technical climbing sections, crevasses, and avalanches during the expedition.
Yes, you need to have a prior mountaineering experience for the Dhaulagiri expedition. The Dhaulagiri peak climbing demands high technical and physical skills from the climbers. The climbers must have prior experience in high-altitude mountaineering.
The Dhaulagiri Expedition's time can change based on several variables, including the acclimatization process, team experience, and weather. The expedition takes, on average, six to eight weeks to finish.
Yes, for the Dhaulagiri Expedition, it is strongly advised to hire a knowledgeable guide or participate in a guided trip. Throughout the trip, a guide will offer crucial assistance, information, and safety precautions.
Climbers participating in the Dhaulagiri Expedition must be in peak physical shape. Frequent strength and cardio training, along with high-altitude acclimatization, are required to meet the physically demanding demands of the climb.
Yes , you will have an altitude issue during the climb of Dhaulagiri Peak. Anyone can have an issue regarding altitude that is above 8,000 M. You can overcome this issue by using supplemental oxygen during the climb. You can follow the climb high and sleep low routine during the climb. Most climbers have used supplemental oxygen and followed the routine for a successful summit.
The most common approach you can train yourself is to gradually move up towards the mountain( 1000 M a day ). You can spend your days at a higher altitude and sleep at a lower altitude. You must prepare your body well as it does not function well at higher altitudes.
Dhaulagiri Peak is considered one of the most challenging peaks in Nepal. You should attempt Dhaulagiri Peak only if you have proper climbing experience and planning for logistics in case of emergency situations. You need to face challenges such as avalanches, falls weather, and altitude problems. However, proper planning and preparation will lead to a successful summit.
Technical equipment such as harnesses, carabineers, crampons, and long-handle ice axes are needed. You also need equipment in order to protect you from frostbite.The equipment needed for this expedition is similar to Everest, K2 and Manaslu.
The Northeast ridge is the most popular route for the Dhaulagiri expedition.
The estimated cost ranges from USD 10 000 to USD 30 000, depending on the kind of service you choose.
