EVEREST EXPEDITION 8,848M - SOUTH EAST RIDGE | Alpinist Club

EVEREST EXPEDITION 8,848M

Group Size

5-15 people

meal

breakfast, lunch, dinner

accomodation

hotel, lodge,tent

arrival on

kathmandu

departure from

kathmandu

trip level

hard, technical

max. altitude

8848m

Best season

Spring

trip highlights

  • The ascent of the highest peak on the planet.
  • 1 sherpa for 1 participant
  • Optimal acclimatization program
  • Preparation course, medical and weather included
  • A human adventure beyond the physical challenge

Everest expedition we climb the roof of the world at 8,848.86 meters by its southern part of the Nepalese slope. The route follows successfully climbed in May 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. Now, we climb into four successive camps. The main difficulty lies in crossing the Khumbu icefall. Therefore, in the Everest expedition to reach the South Pass you must climb slopes inclined between 30 and 45 °. Beyond the South Col, the technical difficulties remain low but the strong winds, the high altitude, and the weight of the bag with the oxygen bottles constitute the great difficulty. A mythical expedition, out of the ordinary, very demanding, to undertake if you already have a good experience of very high altitude.

The approach walk to reach the base camp favors an essential time for acclimatization, with a day of rest in Namche Bazar and Lobuche. A few days spent at the base camp complete this training, or better, we suggest the ascent of Lobuche Peak (6,119 m). By carrying out this ascent, you will be perfectly acclimatized and will thus be able to reduce the number of rotations in the direction of camp 2 and consequently, the time spent in the icefall of Khumbu.

The ascent of Everest is undertaken mainly in the spring, before the monsoon. The spring weather is milder than in the fall, with less cold at very high altitudes. whatever, Safety has always Alpinist team’s top priority and we attempt to create the safest mountain experience skill possible. Alpinist’s well-skill team of guides focuses on leading a fun and successful climb without compromising safety. Therefore, Careful planning with daily weather forecasts and diligent attention are taken as we venture to high altitudes. Comprehensive medical kits, rescue equipment, and radio and satellite communication equipment carry with the team throughout the trip.

of course, if you prepare for your upcoming Everest expedition or trekking in Nepal, please feel free to contact our office and speak directly to one of our experienced guides regarding equipment, conditioning, the route, or any other questions you have may have about our programs. info@alpinistclub.com

Itinerary

Arrival in Kathmandu. you are greeted at the airport by our team and then transferred to our hotel. Evening briefing from your guide.

Approximately 15 hours of driving to the hotel
Final altitude: approximately 13,50 m
Meals: dinner
Accommodation: night in the hotel

We reserve this day for sightseeing in Kathmandu Valley and to prepare for trekking. Point with the responsibility of the expedition on the carried material. If necessary, the many mountain equipment shops in Thamel can supplement your equipment. During this time, our local team does what is necessary to complete the essential administrative formalities and access permits.

Final altitude: approximately 13,50 m
Meals: breakfast 
Accommodation: night in the hotel

Very early departure (between 2 am and 4 am) for Ramechapp airport. On your arrival, a breakfast near the airport will be organized before taking your flight to Lukla. On your arrival in Lukla, organize the loads with the porters and the sherpas then start the trek. Depending on availability in the lodges, stage in Phakding (2610 m) or Monjo (2835 m), in order to shorten the next long stage to Namche Bazar.

We appreciate the softness and greenery of the Dudh Kosi Gorge. At this average altitude, vegetation is still abundant, pine forests cover the steep slopes. At the detours of the trail, we discover hamlets nestled in clearings, nestled above the banks of the river or perched on small flats. After the village of Monjo, we enter the Sagarmatha National Park (“goddess mother of heaven” Nepalese name given to Mount Everest). Created in 1976 and listed as a World Natural Heritage by UNESCO, the park extends over the entire watershed of Dudh Kosi, within which our course. By a wide path winding through the pines, we climb 500 meters above the confluence with the Bhote Kosi. Around 3100 meters, a small stop is needed to discover Everest in focus. Namche, the capital of the Sherpa country is staged in a large amphitheater overlooking the gorges, facing the peaks of the Lumding Himal. The village is of importance, nearly 2500 inhabitants live in opulent houses. Markets, traditional shops, and Sherpa shops offer a lively atmosphere. 

Free day on Namche, the most important city in the region. Many lodges and restaurants are present for this starting point of the trek to Everest. It is the ideal place to rest and acclimatize at high altitude, before embarking on this hike. According to the desire, half-day trekking on the heights of Namche Bazar: villages of Khunde and Khumjung (3780 m), landscapes of pastures and small well-ordered fields. We can admire the sunset on Ama Dablam, Nuptse, and Everest above Namache (1-hour walk).

We climb above Namche Bazar by a gently sloping path on the mountainside to Mong Pass, overlooking Ama Dablam and Kantega, two of Nepal’s most spectacular peaks. We then descend to Phortse Tenga at 3600 m at the edge of the Milky River (Dudu Khosi) and go back slightly to the village of Phortse (3810 m). This day allows us to perfect our acclimatization to the altitude

A slow and steady climb up the Khumbu Valley to Pangboche, the village dominated by Ama Dablam. For 1h30, we go along the river imjakhola through Shomare, then we follow Lobuche Khola to Pheriche

Easy walk for 1 hour, then the trail climbs gently until Thokla (4620 m), then a steep climb to the Thokla pass (4830 m), where there are chortens in memory of the dead during the ascent of the Everest. We have an exceptional view of the West peaks of Everest and the elegant summit of Ama Dablam.

Rest essential to our body for the success of the ascent.

We start by following the valley to the confluence of the Khangri glacier. Gorakshep and its sandy plain precede a tedious walk on the moraine of the Khumbu glacier. Arrive at base camp, at the foot of the famous “Ice Fall”.

Here we are at work, in the vast international camp regrouping all the expeditions. We will be staying there for 45 days in total. Everyone takes their quarters for the following weeks. The breath is short, it is better to avoid moving in all directions. Throughout the stay, we will have to move our tents according to the movements of the glacier. The lunar landscape remains impressive with the sparkling faces of Pumori, Lho La, Nuptse, and Lhotse. The temperature in full sun can even be mild, but it is not uncommon to experience snow squalls in the afternoon.

Third day of acclimatization. Sherpas and all participants are invited to attend the traditional Buddhist ceremony ( Puja ), without which the ascent could not be done. We prepare our materials and equipment.

Day devoted to setting up the ropes. Your expedition leader and your altitude sherpa review your mastery of all the techniques necessary for the ascent: handling of the self-locking handles and progression technique for ascent and descent on fixed ropes, in particular.

Last day of rest before getting down

The main stages of the ascent are as follows:

CAMP I: 5,900 METERS
Reaching C1 is the most technical part of the ascent on the south side. You have to cross the Khumbu icefall. The “ Ice Doctors ”, Sherpas specializing in the installation of fixed ropes along the icefall, recognized the best passage for the current year. 600 meters of progression on the glacier in perpetual motion. The camp is located at the entrance of the western valley, at the exit of the waterfall. We limit the stay to two nights at Camp I for acclimatization. As soon as possible, we go up to Camp II whose excellent location makes it the ideal starting point to the summit.

CAMP II: 6,400 METER
The C2 occupies a site on the left bank of the western valley, at the foot of the western ridge. Very safe, the place offers a breathtaking view of the Lhotse. A real advanced base camp, we set up a kitchen tent and a mess tent for optimum comfort. From this camp, we will launch the attempt to the top. You will spend several nights there beforehand, before going up to the upper camps.

CAMP III: 7,100 METER
The long climb from C2 to C3 puts the tenacity of the participants to the test. The high altitude slows down the progression, without however already being able to call upon the assistance of oxygen. The slope that leads to Lhotse displays an incline of between 30 and 45 ° on very hard, even icy snow. The progression must be done along the fixed ropes. You will sleep two nights at C3 before continuing to the summit.

CAMP IV: SOUTH PASS AT 8,000 METER
The long-awaited moment arrives: you cross the South Pass. This vast, windswept lunar field is the lowest depression between Everest and Lhotse. Most Himalayas access it without the help of supplemental oxygen. You have to cross two characteristic rocky sections before reaching the pass: the yellow band, a layer of marble and schist, and the top of the Genevois spur, a black rocky band. These two passages are equipped with fixed ropes.

EVEREST SUMMIT: 8,848 METER
The last part of the route is climbed in 9 to 13 hours round trip. We use the oxygen right from the start of C4. We go up to regular slopes in the balcony to the southern summit (8,749 m). From there, a long ridge leads to the “ Hillary step ” (8,790 m), or what remains of it since the 2015 earthquake. The last few meters are not difficult, apart from the very high altitude. Your Altitude Sherpa determines, based on your progress and the time you reach the various obstacles, whether you have time to safely reach the top and come back down

Last glances towards the top. It’s time to head back home. The long day to reach first Lobuche and finally the pastures of Dingboche. The softness of the landscapes contrasts with the lunar site of the base camp.

A pleasant day of walking along the valley. This time we go directly by the balcony path which leads to Namche Bazar.

One last effort on the long route to Lukla. But we find an air loaded with oxygen, welcome for our tired lungs.

Flight to Ramechapp airport then transfer to Kathmandu. The flight is subject to weather conditions, a delay in the day of rotation is possible. This is why we always plan a reserve day in Kathmandu before resuming the international flight. Transfer to the hotel in Kathmandu and a free afternoon.

approximately Transfer: 15 min flight and 4 to 5 h drive.
Final altitude: approximately 1,350 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the hotel

Free day in Kathmandu also serves as a security day in case of problems on the Lukla / Kathmandu or during trekking. Today, you have a rest day to relax or you can also go shopping in Kathmandu or you can do anything you like to by yourself.

Final altitude: 1350 m
Meals: breakfast
Accommodation: night in the hotel

free time depending on the departure time of your flight and our representative will drop you at the airport, ending your journey in Nepal. We hope to be of service to you again. Thank you and safe travels.

approximately 20 minutes of driving to the airport
Final altitude: approximately 13,50m
Meals: breakfast

inclusion

what's included

  • Arrival and Departure: Airport – Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop).
  • 4-night Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu on a bed & breakfast Sharing Basis (Twin Bed Room).
  • Welcome Dinner in tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office’s Staffs.
  • Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Everest, Sagarmatha National Park permit TIMS CARD & Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit and its fee.
  • Khumbu Ice Fall Climbingcharge to (SPCC) Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee.
  • 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
  • Garbage Management: Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
  • Medical insurance & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
  • Trekking and climbing map.
  • Domestic Flight) Fly from Kathmandu – Lukla while returning to Lukla – Kathmandu, as per itinerary.
  • Expedition Stuffs Transportation: Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Lukla (by air cargo) and Base camp (by Porters / Yak) – While returning: Base camp to Lukla (by porters / Yak) and Lukla to Kathmandu (by air cargo). Based on the condition expedition stuff may transfer by land (KTM-Phaplu) or Heli (KTM-Lukla).
  • Member Luggage Up to 70 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carried by porters or Yaks.
  • 3 meals a day (BLD; including tea and coffee) and accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staffs.
  • Porter: Porters per member up to Base camp from Lukla & Porters return from Base camp to Lukla.
  • Base Camp Staff:  Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
  • Staff Salary and allowance: All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, foods & clothing.
  • Each member will have an individual tent in Base Camp.
  • Base Camp Equipment: At Base camp: foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dinning Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staffs Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tents, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
  • Heater for base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.
  • 1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, for laptop and other electronic devices.
  •  Medical checkup if each climber at the base camp before the summit attempt.
  • Ice wall and Ladder training at basecamp by IFGMA GUIDE.
  • High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: 1 veteran and Government Licensed per member. (1 Member: 1 Sherpa).
  • Climbing Sherpa Salary & Allowance: Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.
  • Bonus: Carry Bonus of Sherpas and Route Fixing Charges.
  • Oxygen Bottle (O2): Summit Oxygen cylinder: 5 oxygen bottles (4 ltrs.) for each member and 3 oxygen bottles for each high-altitude Sherpa.
  • Oxygen Mask & Regulator: 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks & regulators for each member and high-altitude Sherpa.
  • Back up Oxygen Cylinder, mask, and regulator (with appropriate charge).
  • Gamow Bag: 1 Rescue sled (Gamow bag) for an emergency.
  • High camp service: High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) (C3) and (C4). Group climbing gears, and fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
  • Rope Fixing Team: The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the route On Everest (no extra charge will be applied to members).
  • Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members with appropriate charge.
  • Walkie-Talkie: Walkie–Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
  • Permit: Satellite Phone/walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
  • Internet facility (1 Mbps) will be available at the Base Camp (subject to a charge).
  • Weather forecast report during the entire expedition.
  • Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
  • Everest climbing certificate (after climbing Mt. Everest successfully).

Accomodation & meal

Kathmandu and trekking

 In a 3/4* category hotel in Kathmandu.

During the trek, we will be either in an individual tent or in a lodge. The lodges in Nepal are of very random comfort. The lodges can look like a refuge or sometimes a cottage from home. It is mostly a family house with double, triple, or dormitory rooms. Toilets and showers are always separate.

Base camp
At the base camp, we are in individual tents.

Staying in the base for several weeks must be as comfortable as possible, in order to allow a good recovery on the return from the altitude camps. It must allow us to face a period of bad weather in the best possible conditions. Each participant has their own individual tent with a comfortable mattress. A heated mess tent is the main living area. Tables and chairs are permanently installed there. We also have a shower tent and a WC tent (the solid waste in evacuated drums)

High camps
During the ascent, at the high camps, we have an altitude tent for 2 people or even 3 people on the last camps.

Hygiene & laundry

Toilets: The base camp is equipped with toilets (cans removed and emptied in a suitable place far from the glacier) and toilet paper. Take care to wash your hands with a hydro-alcoholic gel (to be taken from your personal pharmacy) after each visit to the toilet. For the higher camps, we recommend that you bring a bottle that you will use to urinate at night to avoid having to go out.

Daily hygiene: a basin with soap and water is available at the entrance to the mess tent. Water is intended for washing the face and hands, do not drink it.

Shower: hot water available (request to be made in the kitchen). Only take showers in sunny weather to avoid catching a cold!

Laundry: water (cold) and basin to be requested from the kitchen, bring biodegradable products only.

Meal

Kathmandu and trekking
Upon your arrival in Kathmandu, a welcome dinner is offered to you on the first evening. Likewise, upon returning from the expedition, a farewell meal is provided.

In the cities, many small (or large) restaurants allow us to discover the typical local cuisine. With the exception of Kathmandu, breakfasts and evening meals are prepared by the lodge’s kitchen staff or cooks and taken in the lodge’s dining room or in the mess tent. Depending on the profile of the stages (length of the day’s walk and/or presence of water), midday snacks will be served hot or cold in the form of picnics.

Base camp
All meals are prepared by the kitchen team using local ingredients including rice, pasta, lentils, potatoes, vegetables, eggs, a little meat, etc. They are served to you in a private tent. Non-alcoholic hot drinks such as tea or coffee are offered to you at will. We recommend that you stay hydrated at all times.

High camps
At altitude, you often have to force yourself to eat. The use of freeze-dried food is almost unavoidable. But such and such a dish, appetizing in the valley, quickly becomes subject to disgust in the altitude camps. During the preparation weekend, we bring a sample of freeze-dried dishes for you to taste to indicate your preferences which we strive to respect (depending on the stocks available during the final purchases). You can also bring along some of your favorite meals on the expedition (if you have any). For your comfort and the pleasure of taste, we provide some “delicacies” from France (salty and sweet).

Each tent has a stove to melt snow (MSR Reactor type) and make water for your freeze-dried meals and hot drinks. The necessary gas cartridges are supplied.

WATER: provide tablets (Hyclonazone, Micropur, or others) to disinfect the water you put in your water bottle, depending on the source and on the advice of your guide. It is sometimes possible to buy purified water and refill your water bottle without having to buy bottled water. You can also buy “mineral” water in the cities (not included in the price), but its ecological balance is poor, as you know. Also, we do not recommend it.

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faq's

Extreme Difficulties Level

This program is intended for highly seasoned participants in the physical and mental condition of high-level athletes.

It is given as “extreme difficulty” given the very high altitude at which you will evolve. Everest is the highest mountain in the world: although the technical difficulties are relative, climbing the summit is nonetheless a difficult and sometimes even dangerous undertaking. The commitment is very pronounced during the summit attempts.

This expedition is therefore intended for experienced mountaineers (at ease in a PD+ level in snow), who already have a good experience of very high altitudes. It is essential to be completely autonomous in the mountains, both technically and psychologically. The expedition leader and the guides will be above all technical advisers and logistics managers. Under no circumstances will they be able to “pull” a participant to the top.

of course, tough training is  necessary, training focused on developing endurance and resistance: running, cycling, swimming, ski touring, and,  mountain running. This training must be regular and must have started at least 6 to 8 months before the departure of the expedition.

Be careful with carrying: if the collective equipment is transported by the altitude sherpas, you must carry your personal belongings during the progression; to abstain completely would be very detrimental for the summit attempts, during which it is necessary to carry a bag of a certain size (6 to 8 kg), since it will have to contain the possible oxygen bottles (4 kg).

During an expedition, participants are confronted with a hostile environment due to remoteness, cold, bad weather, and discomfort, which can generate stress. Fatigue can be the cause of mood and relational behavior disorders. Everyone must therefore show good humor, tolerance, and respect, not only towards the members of the expedition but also towards the local team. It is possible that the group splits into subgroups according to the affinities of each. Keep in mind that it is the core team that prevails and that, as always in this type of project, the key to success remains the collective and team spirit.

For your registration for this expedition, you will be asked to provide an expedition CV (shopping list)/trek/sport. A hypoxic stress medical test is also mandatory, as is a medical certificate for climbing in the Himalayas.

You benefit, free of charge and for the duration of your expedition, from joining the 24/7 high altitude medical service set up with Ifremmont, of which we are partners. See below. Any health problem, which you think could compromise the successful completion of your expedition, must be communicated to us in order to assess together that it is compatible with this expedition. And we strongly advise you to make a check-up visit to your dentist before departure, given the length of the expedition and the significant variations in altitude and therefore pressure.

In the longer term, we offer mountaineering refresher and advanced courses as part of our Alpinist Training course, as well as expeditions to summits at 5,000, 6,000, and 7,000 meters, offering an ideal progression towards the goal of your dreams at very high altitudes.

Mountaineering level: Slightly Difficult (PD)

In this program, the use of mountaineering equipment (crampons, harness, ice axe, ropes, etc.) is necessary and the route covered may involve small difficulties, whether they are passages that are a little more inclined in a glacial run, the height of the wall, the commitment of the run and the continuity of the efforts. Of course, there is the altitude that makes everything more difficult. Steep or more difficult passages all have fixed ropes, so you have to be comfortable with a self-locking handle in all situations. This ascent is intended for participants who have previous mountaineering experience and who have already completed races at this level.

This technical rating applies of course to normal weather conditions: the difficulty can increase in case of bad conditions, fresh snow for a rocky course, insufficient or lack of quality of ice for a glacier course, etc. Similarly, the situation changes radically, for the same technical level, with the altitude, the weight of the bag, the lack of equipment for the route on-site.

 

  • duration :

    60
  • difficulty level :

    hard, technical

price from

40,000$per person

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