Overview
The name "Kangchenjunga" means "The Five Treasures of the Great Snows" in Tibetan, representing the five peaks: Kangchenjunga I, West, South, and Kangbachen, with each peak symbolizing one of the five sacred treasures—gold, silver, gems, grain, and holy books.
First surveyed by the British in 1849, Kangchenjunga was successfully climbed for the first time in 1955 by British climbers Joe Brown and George Band. Known for its technical difficulty, the mountain attracts climbers seeking personal growth and the opportunity to experience the majestic beauty of the Himalayas.
The Alpinist club Kangchenjunga Expedition begins in Kathmandu. After a brief preparation period, climbers fly to Bhadrapur and drive to Phidim, where the trek to Base Camp begins. The expedition is designed for climbers with experience in 7,000m peaks or more. Climbers will follow a frequent rotation to each camp to ensure proper acclimatization.
The journey progresses through the following camps:
Advanced Base Camp: 5,475m (17,963ft)
Camp I: 6,200m (20,241ft)
Camp II: 6,400m (20,997ft)
Camp III: 7,100m (23,294ft)
Camp IV: 7,570m (24,770ft)
Summit: 8,586m (28,169ft)
Climbers on this expedition are sure to experience a challenging but rewarding journey, with the chance to stand atop one of the world’s most iconic peaks.
Included & Excluded
Included Points |
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ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE :
Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by private vehicle.
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HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU :
4-night hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) - single room on bed with breakfast plan.
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WELCOME DINNER :
One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office Staff.
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PERMITS :
Expedition Royalty and a permit fee from the Nepal Government to climb Mt. Everest, Sagarmatha National Park, and Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality entry permit and fee.
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KHUMBU ICEFALL FEE :
Khumbu Icefall climbing charge to (SPCC) Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee.
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LIAISON OFFICER :
1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
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GARBAGE MANAGEMENT :
Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit Fees.
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INSURANCE :
Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
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MAP :
Trekking and climbing map.
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DUFFLE BAG :
One Alpinist club Duffle Bag.
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MEMBER TRANSPORTATION :
(Domestic Flight) Fly from Kathmandu – Lukla and while returning Lukla - Kathmandu, as per itinerary.
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EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION :
All necessary expedition equipment transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Lukla (by air cargo) to Base camp (by Porters / Yak) – While returning: Base camp to Lukla (by porters / Yak) and Lukla to Kathmandu (by air cargo). Based on the condition expedition staff may transfer by land (KTM-Phaplu) or Heli (KTM-Lukla).
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MEMBER LUGGAGE :
Up to 50 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters or Yaks.
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FOOD AND LODGING :
3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and fresh green vegetables, fresh meat, fruits, soft drinks, and juice will be served regularly during the entire expedition using helicopter flights. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
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PORTER :
Porters per member up to the basecamp and from the basecamp (both ways).
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BASE CAMP STAFF :
Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen helpers as required.
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STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE :
All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
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BASE CAMP TENT :
Each member will have an individual box tent in Base Camp.
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BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT :
Single Tent, foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dinning Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staffs Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tents, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
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HEATER :
Heater at base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.
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SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT :
1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, laptop and other electronic devices.
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MEDICAL CHECKUP :
Twice Medical checkup of each climber at the base camp before the summit attempt.
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TRAINING :
Oxygen, Mask Regulator, Ice wall, and Ladder training at Basecamp by UIAGM Guide.
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HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA :
1 veteran and government-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.
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ASSISTANCE :
Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.
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CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE :
Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.
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BONUS :
Carry Bonus of Sherpas and Route Fixing Charges.
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OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2):Summit Oxygen cylinder :
5 oxygen bottles (4 ltrs.) for each member and 3 oxygen bottles for each high-altitude Sherpa. **
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OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR :
1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks & regulators for each member and high-altitude Sherpa. **
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BACK-UP OXYGEN :
BACK-UP Oxygen Cylinder, mask, and regulator (with appropriate charge).
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HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) :
High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) (C3) and (C4). Group climbing gears, fixed, and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
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HIGH CAMP KITCHEN AND DINING :
We will have one cook, kitchen, and dining tents in Camp I and Camp II.
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HIGH ALTITUDE TENT :
Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).
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ROPE FIXING TEAM :
The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the route to the summit of Everest (no extra charge will be applied to members).
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SATELLITE PHONE :
SATELLITE PHONE for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members with appropriate charge.
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WALKIE-TALKIE :
Walkie–Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
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PERMITS :
Satellite Phone/walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
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INTERNET SERVICE :
Internet facility (1 Mbps) will be available at the Base Camp (subject to a charge).
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WEATHER FORECAST :
Weather forecast report regularly during the entire expedition.
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MEDICAL KIT :
Medical kit for members and staff.
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CERTIFICATE :
Kanchenjunga climbing certificate after climbing successfully. |
Excluded Points |
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AIR FARE :
International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
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NEPAL ENTRY VISA FEE :
The Nepalese Visa fee is $125 USD for 90 Days.
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LUNCH & DINNER :
Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
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EXTRA NIGHTS IN KATHMANDU :
Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, or domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
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INSURANCE POLICY :
Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high-altitude rescue & air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory
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PERSONAL EXPENSES :
Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).
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PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT :
Clothing, Packing Items, Bags, Personal Medical Kit, and all kinds of Personal Trekking / Climbing Gear.
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TOILETRIES :
Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
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FILMING :
Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
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INTERNET SERVICE :
Not included during the trek.
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SUMMIT BONUS :
Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa- Minimum 1800 USD.
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TIPS :
Calculate some tips for basecamp and high camp staff – Minimum 400 USD.
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EXTRA :
Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary and other items not listed in the “Cost Includes” section. Note: Due to unforeseeable factors (weather, fitness, customs, road conditions, landslides, etc.), your expedition leader may adjust the program as needed. The leader is the sole judge and guarantor of your safety. Activity times are for reference and may vary per participant. Note: The provided itinerary is for reference only and may vary per participant. It's flexible to accommodate weather conditions. Follow your guide's recommendations, who may cancel or stop the expedition for safety or physical reasons. Remember, this is an autonomous expedition with potential hazards. Alpinist club, your expedition leader, guide, or local teams cannot be held responsible for any unforeseen issues. |
Trip Organization
KANCHENJUNGA EXPEDITION DETAILS
Your guide, from your arrival in Kathmandu until your departure, is responsible for the success of your trip and oversees your team. Do not hesitate to ask him questions, respect his position as the team leader, and above all follow his advice! Often your guide is the only English-speaking member of the team. In the mountains and, especially when during high-altitude travels, your guide is responsible for the safety of the group. The instructions he gives and the remarks he makes to all participants must be carefully followed. The interest and safety of the trekking group must be preserved, even when it may be to the detriment of an individual member of the group.
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YOUR PRIVATE GUIDE DURING CLIMBING KANCHENJUNGA
The keystone of your success on all of our expeditions is that we are systematically on a ratio of one high-altitude sherpa per participant. He accompanies you for the key moments of the ascent and during the summit push. He is particularly experienced in high altitudes. He has participated in several expeditions at more than 8,000 meters, successfully leading participants to the summit. We select him for you. He is generally English-speaking. He may not be permanently at your side in the rotations between the camps, his role also being to carry out the portages to set up the camps.
There is a summit bonus for your high-altitude sherpa to be paid on-site in cash after the climb. This bonus is due from the moment you leave the last camp towards the summit during your summit push attempt.
EXPEDITION LEADER IN KANCHENJUNGA
His role is important in leading the strategy necessary for success: rotation in the altitude camps, acclimatization of each participant, and study of weather reports to decide on the optimum moment to launch the summit push.
The expedition leader represents the Alpinist Club to the group, . Mainly based at the base camp, he can accompany you to the high-altitude camps to supervise the smooth running of the expedition's logistics. He makes the necessary decisions that may be required. His authority is preponderant and unavoidable. You must respect his decisions as well as those taken collectively.
LOCAL PORTER TEAM DURING THE KANCHENJUNGA EXPEDITION
Our experienced team is uniquely equipped to address the key challenges of a Himalayan expedition: technical supervision and equipment transport. With over 10 years of refinement, our optimized operation assigns clear roles to ensure individual and collective success.
A kitchen team will be present at the Kanchenjunga base camp.
There is a team of porters who help us set up the base camp with all the equipment and the kitchen. Beyond that, the team of high-altitude sherpas takes over. They help us in particular in setting up the high altitude camps and in portaging from the base camp.
Each participant will have to take care of carrying their personal belongings and altitude food. The collective equipment is transported by the Nepalese team. Our backpack will be calibrated from 10 to 12 kg.
For unforeseeable reasons at this stage, including weather but also fitness or lack of fitness of the participants, your guide may have to adapt or even interrupt your program, at any time if he deems it necessary, whether for the whole group or for a few participants, and for the smooth running of your trip. He remains the sole judge and guarantor of your safety.
KANCHENJUNGA CLIMBING DIFFICULTY LEVEL
1: Physical level: extreme
This program is aimed at very experienced participants, with the physical and mental condition of a high-level athlete.
It is given as "extreme difficulty" given the very high altitude at which you will be climbing. Manaslu is one of the highest mountains in the world: although the technical difficulties are relative, climbing the summit is nonetheless a difficult and sometimes even dangerous undertaking. The commitment is very pronounced during summit attempts.
This expedition is therefore intended for experienced mountaineers (comfortable in a PD/AD level in snow), who already have good experience of high altitude. It is essential to be totally autonomous in the mountains, both technically and psychologically. The expedition leader and the high-altitude sherpas are above all technical advisors and logistics managers. They cannot under any circumstances "pull" a participant to the summit.
of course, training is necessary, training focused on developing one's endurance and resistance capacities: running, cycling, swimming, ski touring and of course, mountain racing. This training must be regular and have started at least 6 to 8 months before the expedition leaves.
2: High Altitude
High altitude is the main challenge in climbing an 8,000-meter peak, as oxygen levels drop significantly (hypoxia). Gradual acclimatization is vital, especially in the first weeks. Take it slow, avoid overexertion, and listen to your body—symptoms like headaches and nausea are common but shouldn’t be ignored to prevent serious complications.
The expedition demands prolonged physical effort in harsh conditions, including cold and wind, so solid endurance and resistance training are essential. For those interested, we offer the option to climb without supplemental oxygen, though most use it from Camp 4 (7,570 m). A 1:1 ratio of altitude Sherpas to participants ensures personalized support during the summit push. Feel free to discuss your plans with us!
During the expedition, you must carry your personal belongings, as high-altitude Sherpas only transport collective equipment. For summit attempts, expect to carry a 6–8 kg bag, including oxygen bottles (4 kg).
The challenging environment—distance, cold, bad weather, and discomfort—can cause stress, fatigue, and mood changes. Good humor, tolerance, and respect for teammates and the local team are essential. While subgroups may form, team spirit is key to success.
3: Mountaineering level
This program requires the use of mountaineering equipment like crampons, harnesses, ice axes, and ropes. The route may include moderate challenges, such as steeper glacier sections, exposed walls, or sustained effort, all made harder by the altitude. Steep sections are equipped with fixed ropes, so proficiency with a self-blocking device is essential. This climb is for participants with prior mountaineering experience at a similar level.
The technical difficulty assumes normal weather conditions and can increase with poor weather, fresh snow, or low-quality ice. Factors like altitude, heavy packs, limited route equipment, and long approaches also make the climb more demanding.
ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU AND DURING THE KANCHENJUNGA EXPEDITION
- Hotel In Kathmandu: In Kathmandu, we will provide you with a single room in a hotel
- During the trek to Kanchenjunga: You will stay in the Lodge. Lodges in Nepal are very random in terms of comfort. Lodges can look like a refuge or sometimes a homestay. They are mostly family homes with double, triple, or dormitory rooms. Toilets and showers are always separate.
- Kanchenjunga Base Camp: At the base camp, we are in individual tents. A base camp for several weeks must be as comfortable as possible, to allow a good recovery on returning from the high-altitude camps. It must allow us to face a period of bad weather in the best possible conditions. Each participant has a tent with a comfortable mattress. A heated mess tent is the main living area. Tables and chairs are permanently installed there. We also have a shower tent and a toilet tent (solid waste in evacuated barrels)
- kanchenjunga High Altitude Camps: During the ascent, at the high camps, we have a high-altitude tent for 2 people, or even 3 people at the last camps.
Hygiene & dry cleaning during the Kanchenjunga Expedition
- Toilets: The base camp has toilets and toilet paper. Be sure to wash your hands with hydroalcoholic gel (to be taken from your personal pharmacy) after each visit to the toilet. For the higher camps, we recommend that you bring a bottle that you will use to urinate at night to avoid having to go out.
- Daily hygiene: a basin with water and soap is available at the entrance to the mess tent. Water is intended for washing the face and hands, do not drink it.
- Shower: hot water is available (ask in the kitchen). Only take showers in sunny weather to avoid catching a cold!
- Laundry: water (cold) and basin to be requested from the kitchen, bring biodegradable products only.
MEAL IN KATHMANDU AND TREKKING DURING KANCHENJUNG EXPEDITION
Upon arrival in Kathmandu, a welcome dinner is provided on the first evening. Similarly, upon return from the expedition, a farewell meal is provided. In the cities, many small (or large) restaurants allow us to discover the typical local cuisine.
During the Trek: breakfasts and evening meals are prepared by the kitchen team or the lodge cooks and are taken in the lodge dining room or under the mess tent. Depending on the profile of the stages (length of the day's walk and/or presence of water), midday Lunch/ snacks will be served hot or cold in the form of picnics.
Here is a typical one-day menu during the trek:
- Breakfast: eggs, toast or chapati, or Tibetan bread or pancakes, or pancakes, butter/jam, tea or coffee
- Lunch: a main course, tea or coffee
- Dinner: soup, main course, fruit (fresh or canned), tea or coffee. During the trek, tea or coffee is served with meals. Two cups per person are included. Apart from these included menus, other drinks and foodstuffs will be at your expense.
- Water: Use purification tablets (Hydralazine, Micropur, or others) as advised by your guide, refill with purified water when possible, and avoid bottled mineral water due to its environmental impact.
BASE CAMP MEAL: All meals are prepared by the kitchen team using local ingredients including rice, pasta, lentils, potatoes, vegetables, eggs, a little meat, etc. They are served to you in a Dinning tent. Non-alcoholic hot drinks such as tea or coffee are offered to you at will. We recommend that you stay constantly hydrated.
ALTITUDE CAMPS MEAL: at camp 2 our cook will prepare food for you. At high altitudes, eating can be difficult, and freeze-dried food is usually necessary. While this food might taste fine at lower elevations, it can quickly become unappealing in high-altitude camps.
we will provide freeze-dried dishes and share your preferences. We’ll do our best to match these, depending on available stock. You can also bring up your favorite foods for the expedition.
for higher camp, Each tent is equipped with a stove to melt snow for water, prepare freeze-dried meals, and make hot drinks. Gas cartridges will be provided
STAY HYDRATION: Bring water purification tablets (like Hydroclonazone or Micropur) to treat water, depending on the source and your guide's advice. Purified water may sometimes be available, reducing the need for bottled water, which is less eco-friendly.
Glacier meltwater lacks minerals, which your meals partly provide. However, relying only on tea, coffee, or plain water can lead to poor hydration, stomach issues, and mineral deficiencies on long expeditions. To avoid this, pack 2–3 tubes of mineral salt tablets (10 tablets per tube) to add to your water bottle.
TRANSFERS / TRANSPORT DURING TRIP
All transfers are provided in private vehicles.
For various reasons, we prefer trekking to reach the base camp: the progression designed for acclimatization allows you to prepare yourself physically and psychologically for the climb. It is also the ideal time to get to know the team and to start building team spirit and cohesion. The return is also planned as a trek. That said, the possibility of taking the helicopter on the way back is possible for an additional fee.
GROUP SIZE IN KANCHENJUNGA EXPEDITION
The group is composed of 1 to 15 participants maximum. The number of participants is voluntarily limited to allow a better immersion, to not embarrass our hosts, to develop spaces of freedom and to allow a great flexibility of operation. However, the maximum number can be exceeded in the case where the last person who registers wishes to travel with another or several other people. The services will not be modified and the conditions of the trip will be identical as a result.
COLLECTIVE CAMP EQUIPMENT
All logistical equipment is provided, including individual tents at the base camp with mattresses, mess tent, shower tent and toilet tent, as well as all collective and individual cooking equipment. At altitude, tents, stoves with gas cartridges, ropes and anchors.
INDIVIDUAL EQUIPMENT
Personal equipment is not provided. A complete list is provided later in this document. It will be refined with us during the preparation days and up until the time of departure according to your questions.
High altitude sleeping bags, full suits and/or good quality down jackets are expensive items that you may not use often. We can rent you this specific equipment for the duration of the expedition. You must then return the equipment cleaned and in the condition in which it was given to you (deposit required).
OXYGEN OR WITHOUT OXYGEN FOR SUMMIT PUSH
For safety, high-altitude Sherpas always use supplemental oxygen at a reduced flow. Most participants begin using oxygen from Camp 4 (7,400 m), with some starting at Camp 3 (6,800 m). Your package includes 3 oxygen bottle and 1 regulator, and a mask for use from Camp 4. High-altitude porters transport these items to the camps.
If you wish to use oxygen before Camp 4, you must request it early. Extra cylinders are not included and must be paid for on-site. We also allow participants to attempt the summit without supplemental oxygen, thanks to a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio, enabling personalized ascent rhythms. Discuss this option with your expedition leader early to refine acclimatization. Note that no refunds are provided if you choose not to use oxygen. For safety, one oxygen bottle per participant is provided at Camp 4, regardless of use.
From Camp 4, two options are available for the summit push:
No oxygen bottle: The "purist" approach avoids extra weight but requires turning back if fatigue or slow pace becomes an issue. No second summit attempt is allowed.
Carry an oxygen bottle: Adds 4–5 kg to your pack but allows flexibility to use oxygen if needed during the climb.
SECURITY AND COMMUNICATION
We have at least one Iridium satellite phone that is used only for logistical, weather and security purposes. Under certain conditions, participants may use it. For these private uses, please contact us.
The camps will be permanently connected by radio. Expedition leader, participants and high-altitude sherpas will also have access to this.
The expedition will have a hyperbaric chamber at the base camp, and a complete, lighter pharmacy at the higher camps.
PREPARATION FOR KANCHENJUNGA EXPEDITION
Preparing for the trek requires several months of preparation with 4 to 6-hour walks every weekend for stamina and participating in a sport that requires short periods of high exertion.
MEDICAL CHECK-UP BEFORE GOING EXPEDITION
Being in good health is essential to enjoy your Alpinist Club trip fully. If your last medical visit was more than four years ago, please get another general physical exam and tell your doctor the nature of your trip (climate, altitude, difficulty, etc.). The altitude also has the effect of reviving dental problems or other chronic pain, so getting a dental checkup is also prudent. If you are undertaking a high-altitude expedition, we advise you to consult a mountain medicine specialist.
ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS
This trip takes place at high altitudes so some people may experience altitude-related discomforts like headaches, loss of appetite, and swelling of limbs. Most of these symptoms usually go away within a few days, but sometimes they can develop into a serious illness: pulmonary or cerebral edema. There are no preventive drugs for AMS. Diamox diuretic is often effective for symptomatic relief, but you should first check with your doctor to verify that it is not contraindicated. Think about it before you go.
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FAQ's
Expand AllKangchenjunga stands at 8,586 meters (28,169 feet), making it the third-highest mountain in the world.
The mountain is located on the border between Nepal and the Sikkim.
The primary routes are the Southwest Face (Nepal side) and the Northeast Ridge (Sikkim/India side).
Yes, climbers should have prior experience in high-altitude mountaineering and technical climbing skills.
The optimal climbing seasons are typically pre-monsoon (April to May) and post-monsoon (September to October).
Challenges include steep ice walls, crevasses, unpredictable weather, and high altitude.
Yes, climbers require special permits for both the trek and the ascent, which can be obtained through trekking agencies.
Climbers should be in excellent physical condition, with endurance training recommended for high-altitude treks.
Yes, it’s important to respect local customs and traditions, particularly due to the sacred significance of Kangchenjunga.
Essential gear includes high-altitude climbing equipment, warm clothing, technical gear (ice axes, crampons), and safety equipment.
The entire expedition can take 4 to 6 weeks, including trekking to the base camp and acclimatization.
Yes, altitude sickness is a significant risk; proper acclimatization is crucial to mitigate this risk.
The base camp offers stunning views, a chance to acclimatize, and preparation for the ascent. Amenities are basic, typically consisting of tents.
The success rate varies, but it is lower compared to other 8,000-meter peaks due to its technical challenges and weather conditions.
Yes, trekkers often have opportunities to engage with local communities