Addres:
Thamel - Kathmandu - Nepal
E-mail:
info@alpinistclub.com
Contact No:
+977 9843603583
1 Person From:
$
2 Person From:
$
Max. Elevation: 8516m
Best Season: April-May
Duration: 60 Days
Trip Grading: Hard
Activity: Expedition
Transport: private vehicle
Accommodation: Hotel- Lodge-tent
Meals: Breakfast- lunch- Dinner
Availability Status: Breakfast- lunch- Dinner
Climb Lhotse (8,516 m), the world’s fourth-highest peak in Nepal. Follow the Everest route to Camp 3, then ascend technical terrain to Camp 4 and the summit. A challenging high-altitude climb for experienced mountaineers.
Lhotse (8,516 m), the world’s fourth-highest mountain, is often overlooked in favor of its famous neighbor, Everest. Yet for serious mountaineers, Lhotse represents a major achievement and a unique opportunity to climb another 8,000-meter peak with remarkable technical challenges
| 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio for maximum safety and support |
| Climb to the summit of the world’s fourth-tallest mountain |
| Professional weather forecasting and 24/7 medical hotline |
| Guaranteed departure from the first registered climber |
The standard ascent initially follows the Everest South Col route up to Camp 3 (7,100 m). From there, the path diverges at the distinctive yellow rock band, marking the start of Lhotse’s climb. Camp 4 at 7,950 meters, situated between the South Col and the base of the Reiss Couloir, is considered the true starting point for the summit push.
Historically, Lhotse was first climbed by a Swiss expedition in 1956, who successfully reached its summit before continuing to Everest. Today, many climbers tackle Lhotse immediately after Everest, taking advantage of shared logistics and acclimatization to reduce costs and effort.
The Lhotse climb demands excellent physical condition, high-altitude experience, and strong technical skills, particularly above Camp 3. Its combination of steep snow, ice, and mixed terrain makes it a rewarding but challenging objective for expert mountaineers.
For those seeking to expand their Himalayan achievements beyond Everest, Lhotse is a prestigious, technical, and unforgettable summit, offering the satisfaction of standing on one of the world’s highest peaks.
DAY 1: ARRIVE IN KATHMANDU
DAY 2 & 3 : IN KATHMANDU
Check in with the expedition manager regarding the equipment you’re carrying. If you need to add or complete any items, the many mountain gear shops in Thamel are available to assist. Meanwhile, our local team will handle all essential administrative formalities and secure the necessary climbing permits.
DAY 4: KATHMANDU TO LUKLA AND TREK TO PHAKDING (2610 M)
Start the day with a scenic 30-minute flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. Upon arrival, meet your porters and organize the loads before beginning the trek. The trail gently descends and then climbs gradually along the beautiful Dudh Khola River, leading you to the village of Phakding.
DAY 5: TREK PHAKDING TO NAMCHE BAZAAR (3440M)
DAY 6: ACCLIMATIZATION DAY IN NAMCHE BAZAR (3440 M)
DAY 7: NAMCHE BAZAR TO THAME (3820 M)
Depart Namche Bazaar heading west into a narrow valley, where you’ll often encounter yaks and local Sherpa herders along the trail. Continue toward Thame and visit the monastery perched above the village, offering peaceful surroundings and magnificent views of Thamserku (6,608 m).
DAY 8: THAME TO MARULUNG TO LANGDEN (4420 M)
Make a steady ascent toward Langden, following a beautiful high-mountain trail. Along the way, you may encounter yak caravans and Tibetans traveling down from the Nangpa La pass for trade, adding a unique cultural touch to the journey.
DAY 9: LANGDEN TO RENJO LA (5365 M) TO GOKYO (4750 M)
DAY 10: GOKYO TO DRAGNAG (4690 M)
DAY 11: DRAGNAG TO CHO LA (5420 M) TO DZONGLA (4820 M)
DAY 12: DZONGLA TO LOBUCHE (4930 M)
DAY 13: TREK LOBUCHE TO EVEREST BASE CAMP (5364 M)
DAY 14: ACCLIMATIZATION DAY AT BASE CAMP (5364 M)
DAY 15: TREK EVEREST BASE CAMP TO LOBUCHE (4930 M)
DAY 16: TREK LOBUCHE TO ALTITUDE CAMP (5400 M)
DAY 17: HIGH CAMP - SUMMIT (6119 M) AND RETURN TO LOBUCHE
DAY 18: TREK LOBUCHE TO EVEREST BASE CAMP (5364 M)
DAY 19 TO 53: ASCENT OF LHOTSE 8416M
Camp 1 (5,900–6,000 m)
The route to Camp 1 includes the most technical section of the south face ascent: the Khumbu Icefall, a constantly shifting glacier.
• Specialized Sherpa “Ice Doctors” set fixed ropes across the 600-meter icefall.
• Camp 1 lies at the entrance of the Western Cwm, just above the icefall.
• Typically used for one to two nights of acclimatization.
• Ascent time from Base Camp: approx. 6 hours.
Camp 2 (6,400–6,500 m)
• Located on the left side of the Western Cwm, at the foot of the West Ridge.
• A very safe camp offering stunning views of Lhotse.
• Functions as an advanced base camp, equipped with a kitchen tent and mess tent for added comfort.
• Serves as the main launching point for the summit attempt.
• Climbers spend several nights here before moving higher.
• Ascent time from Camp 1: approx. 5 hours.
Camp 3 (7,100–7,300 m)
• The climb from Camp 2 is physically challenging due to the altitude.
• The slope leading to the Lhotse face ranges from 30° to 45°, often icy or hard-packed, requiring movement along fixed ropes.
• Supplemental oxygen is used from Camp 3 onwards, at a low flow to aid rest.
• Climbers usually spend two nights here for acclimatization.
• Ascent time from Camp 2: approx. 7 hours.
Camp 4 (7,900 m)
• Reached via a long ascending traverse toward the South Col.
• At this point, the route diverges from the Everest trail and heads toward the Lhotse face.
• Camp 4 is positioned roughly halfway between the South Col and the base of the Reiss Couloir.
Lhotse Summit (8,516 m)
• Supplemental oxygen is used from Camp 4 at maximum flow to support the strenuous summit push.
• Climbers follow fixed ropes up to the base of the narrow Reiss Couloir (4–6 meters wide), which steepens progressively to 60°.
• The estimated duration from Base Camp to the summit is about six days.
• Each participant receives five oxygen bottles; altitude guides receive three, along with masks and regulators.
• A 1:1 Sherpa-to-participant ratio ensures strong support, with Sherpas assisting during the final ascent and transporting gea
DAY 53: TREK BASE CAMP TO LOBUCHE TO DINGBOCHE (4400 M)
DAY 54: TREK DINGBOCHE TO NAMCHE BAZAR (3440 M)
DAY 55: TREK NAMCHE BAZAR TO LUKLA (2850 M)
DAY 56: FLIGHT LUKLA TO KATHMANDU
DAY 57: FREE DAY IN KATHMANDU
DAY 58: INTERNATIONAL FLIGHT FROM KATHMANDU
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE : ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE : Airport – hotel transfers- airport (pick up and drop), by a private vehicle.
HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU : HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU : 4-night hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category)- single room on bed and breakfast plan.
WELCOME DINNER : WELCOME DINNER : one welcome dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with the office staff.
PERMITS : PERMITS : Lhotse Expedition Permit and all required climbing permits, Sagarmatha National Park entry permit, and Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural municipality entry fee.
LICENSE OFFICER : LICENSE OFFICER : government license officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
GARBAGE MANAGEMENT : GARBAGE MANAGEMENT : Stool Shipment transfer and Garbage Deposit fees.
INSURANCE : INSURANCE : Medical and Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
MAP : MAP : Trekking and climbing map
DUFFLE BAG : DUFFLE BAG :
One Alpinist club duffle bag.
MEMBER TRANSPORTATION : MEMBER TRANSPORTATION :
LAND TRANSPORTATION: Domestic flight Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu.
EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION : EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION : All necessary equipment transportation for all members and staff.
MEMBER LUGGAGE : MEMBER LUGGAGE : up to 50kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters or yaks.
FOOD AND LODGING : FOOD AND LODGING : All meals during the trek and expedition (breakfast, lunch, dinner, tea/coffee), Accommodation during the trek in lodges/teahouses, Accommodation at Base Camp in high-quality personal tents.
PORTER : PORTER :
porter per member up to and from base camp (both ways).
BASE CAMP STAFF : BASE CAMP STAFF : Experienced and well – trained base camp cook and kitchen helpers as required.
STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE : STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE : All Nepalese staff and porters' daily wages, salary, equipment, food, and clothing.
BASE CAMP TENT : BASE CAMP TENT : Each member will have an individual box tent in base camp.
BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT : BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT : Single tent, foam mattresses, and a pillow per member, 1 dining tent, 1 kitchen tent,1 communication tent, 1 toilet, and 1 shower tent, 1 staff tent, 1 tent for Nepalese base camp staff, store tents, tables and chairs, and all necessary cooking gear.
HEATER : HEATER : Heater at base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.
SOLAR/GENERATOR /LIGHT : SOLAR/GENERATOR /LIGHT : Solar panel or generator for battery charge and light at base camp for use.
TRAINING : TRAINING : Oxygen, Mask Regulator, ice wall, and Ladder training at Basecamp by a professional guide.
HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA : HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA : Government-licensed climbing sherpa per member (1member: 1 sherpa), during the entire climb from basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.
ASSISTANCE : ASSISTANCE : A climbing sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.
CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE : CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE : Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, food, and clothing.
OXYGEN BOTTLE (02) : OXYGEN BOTTLE (02) : Summit oxygen bottles (4Itrs) for each member and 1 oxygen bottle for each high -altitude sherpa.
OXYGEN MASK ®ULATOR : OXYGEN MASK ®ULATOR : 1 set of summit oxygen masks and a regulator for each member and a high-altitude sherpa, which has to be returned after the expedition.
BACK-UP OXYGEN : BACK-UP OXYGEN : back up the oxygen cylinder, mask, and regulator (with appropriate charge.
HIGH CAMP KITCHEN AND DINING : HIGH CAMP KITCHEN AND DINING : Will have one cook, kitchen, and dining tents in camp I and camp II.
HIGH ALTITUDE TENT : HIGH ALTITUDE TENT : Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).
ROPE FIXING TEAM : ROPE FIXING TEAM : The team of experienced sherpas will fix the route on Manaslu (no extra charge will be applied to members).
SATELLITE PHONE : SATELLITE PHONE : A satellite phone for emergency communication carried by the sherpa is also available for members with appropriate charge.
WALKIE-TALKIE : WALKIE-TALKIE : walkie–talkie for communicating from base camp to the mountain to base camp.
PERMITS : PERMITS : Satellite phone/walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
INTERNET SERVICE : INTERNET SERVICE : Internet facility (1 Mbps) will be available at the base camp (subject to a charge).
WEATHER FORECAST : WEATHER FORECAST : weather forecast report regularly during the entire expedition.
MEDICAL KIT : MEDICAL KIT : Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
BONUS : BONUS :
CERTIFICATE : CERTIFICATE :
Mt. Lhotse climbing certificate (after climbing Mt. Lhotse successfully).
AIR FARE : International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu)
NEPAL ENTRY VISA FEE : The Nepalese visa fee is $125USD for 90days.
LUNCH & DINNER : Lunch and dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from trekking /expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
EXTRA NIGHT IN KATHMANDU : Extra nights' accommodation in Kathmandu. In the case of early arrival or late departure, early return from trekking / Expedition, or domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
INSURANCE POLICY : Insurance covering both medical and high- altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high altitude rescue, and air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc) Mandatory
PERSONAL EXPENSES : Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu, but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).
PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT : Clothing, packing Items, Bags, a personal medical kit, and all kinds of personal trekking /climbing Gear.
TOILETRIES : Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
FILMING : Special filming, Camera, and drone permit fee.
INTERNET SERVICE : Not included during the trek.
TIPS : Calculate some tips for Basecamp staff – Minimum 400 USD.
Days 1-4: Travel and Kathmandu - Arrival in Kathmandu, passport collection for permits, and gear check. Participants can purchase additional equipment in Thamel.
Days 5-15: Trek to Base Camp and Acclimatization -
Days 20-53: Lhotse Ascent - This period is dedicated to the climb itself, which involves a series of rotations between camps for acclimatization and summit attempts.
Guides and Sherpas
A ratio of one experienced high-altitude Sherpa per participant is provided. This Sherpa accompanies the participant during key moments of the ascent, especially the summit push, and assists with carrying gear to set up camps. They are experienced in high altitude and fluent in English. A summit bonus of US$1,000 for the high-altitude Sherpa is to be paid on site after the ascent, regardless of whether the summit is reached.
Expedition Leader
For groups of 1 to 5 participants, a local Nepalese English-speaking expedition leader is provided and may be shared with other expeditions. For groups of 6 or more, a dedicated, experienced expedition leader is provided. The expedition leader, primarily based at Base Camp, determines the strategy for success, including rotations, acclimatization, and optimal summit push timing based on weather bulletins. Their authority is paramount for safety.
Local Team
A Base Camp manager and kitchen team are present at Base Camp, with a cook also stationed at Camp 2. Porters assist in setting up Base Camp. High-altitude Sherpas take over from Base Camp for camp setup and carrying collective and personal equipment. Participants are responsible for carrying their personal belongings and high-altitude food (backpacks calibrated to 10-12 kg), while collective gear is transported by the Nepalese team.
Medical and Weather Support
Access to an experienced weather router and a high-altitude medical specialist from Ifremmont is provided, including a 24/7 medical service during the expedition.
Oxygen
Four bottles of oxygen with masks and regulators are provided per participant, and three per high-altitude guide. Oxygen is used at night from Camp 3 and at maximum flow during the summit push. Additional oxygen bottles cost approximately US$500.
Camps and Facilities:
in Kathmandu, accommodation is in 3/4* hotels with individual rooms.
Welcome and farewell dinners are provided in Kathmandu. During the trek, full board is provided, with meals prepared by the lodge's kitchen team. At Base Camp, meals are prepared from local ingredients. At altitude camps, dehydrated meals are common, and participants can bring their preferred items. Proper hydration is emphasized, and participants are advised to bring water purification tablets and mineral salt tablets.
Challenges and Safety Climbing an 8000-meter peak is an exceptional adventure, no longer exclusively for an elite, due to advancements in logistics, equipment, weather forecasting, and physical preparedness of mountaineers. However, it remains a difficult and potentially dangerous undertaking, requiring total commitment, lucidity, and humility in a hostile natural environment.
The primary challenge is the extreme altitude and oxygen rarefaction (hypoxia). Each person reacts differently, and acclimatization is crucial. Symptoms like headaches and nausea are common but should not be ignored to prevent edematous processes. Above 8000 meters, the body experiences rapid deterioration, leading to loss of sleep, appetite, apathy, and hallucinations. It's crucial to descend promptly, as lingering at extreme altitudes can be fatal.
A rigorous preparation spanning over a year is essential, focusing on physical, mental, and technical aspects. Training should be regular, starting at least 6-8 months before the expedition, focusing on endurance and resistance (running, cycling, swimming, ski touring, mountain courses). A mandatory preparation stage is required, and expedition participants are advised to have prior experience in high-altitude environments and be technically self-sufficient.
A hypoxic exercise medical test and a medical certificate for the Himalayan ascent are mandatory. A dental check-up is also strongly recommended before departure, particularly due to altitude and pressure changes.
Key safety precautions include staying adequately warm/cool, covering the head, staying hydrated, having a hot meal daily, mutual supervision in high altitude, never descending alone, setting limits, recognizing warning signs (mirages, drowsiness, appetite loss), and not hesitating to turn back, regardless of external pressure.
It is explicitly stated that turning back is not a failure and can be a victory in itself. The forces of nature are exponentially stronger than human intelligence, and even the most meticulous preparation can be thwarted by adverse conditions. The motto is: "Dare to climb, know how to descend".
While an individual commitment, the expedition is a collective adventure emphasizing confidence, unity, serenity, and humility. Good humor, tolerance, and respect among group members and the local team are vital.
The itinerary, especially the climbing schedule, is subject to change due to weather, participant fitness, or unforeseen events (e.g., roadblocks, customs, or natural hazards). The expedition leader has full authority to adjust or interrupt the program to ensure safety. Any extra costs from changes, delays, or early returns are the responsibility of the participant.