Overview
Climbers should have prior experience on peaks like Lobuche East, Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peaks, Mt. Blanc, Baruntse, Himlung Himal, or Ama Dablam (or similar 4,000m–7,000m peaks). Skills in multi-pitch climbing (rock or ice), rock climbing grades, and ice climbing are essential. Makalu Base Camp (4,823m) lies between two glaciers, offering stunning views of Makalu and surrounding peaks. From here, we established Advanced Base Camp (5,900m) and four higher camps:
Camp 1 (6,150m): Reached via rocky moraine and headwall.
Camp 2 (6,450m–6,500m): Situated after climbing mixed terrain and steep slopes.
Camp 3 (7,400m–7,450m): Positioned on the pass between Makalu II (7,678m) and the main summit ridge.
Camp 4 (7,800m): Below the French Couloir, leading to the final steep ascent to the 8,463m summit.
This route demands technical expertise and endurance for a rewarding climb.
On May 15, 1955, a French team commanded by Jean Franco, which consisted of Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy, successfully ascended Mount Makalu for the first time. The Northeast Ridge, the most popular path to the peak, is how the team ascended the mountain. Numerous successful efforts to reach the summit have been attempted since the initial ascent.
The journey will start with a flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar. Then you will be taken to the Num village by road which is above the Arun River. Later on, the trekking starts from the Num village to the Base camp in the following days. There are few lodges available here with the basic facilities.You will have enough time to acclimate and relax in the base camp. Camp I will be at 6,15 meters, Camp II at 7,000 meters, Camp III at 7,300 meters, and Camp IV on the North Ridge at 7,850 meters. After the successful completion of the summit, you will witness the various majestic peaks and will feel a sense of accomplishment.
The Barun Valley is a beautiful valley rich in natural beauty located at the foot of Mount Makalu. The Valley is home to many stunning waterfalls and a wide range of plant and animal species. They have a unique culture and have the vibrant customs of ethnic communities such as the Kirat and Sherpas. The area is undoubtedly the most stunning place on earth. You will enjoy every second of the time spent here. You will carry unforgettable memories for a lifetime
Itinerary
Expand AllOur teams will welcome you to organize the transfer to the hotel. Passports are collected to finalize the ascent permit application.
Mode of transfer/transport: private minibus
Meals: Dinner
Accommodation: Night at the hotel
Update with the expedition manager on the equipment taken. If necessary, the numerous mountain equipment shops in Thamel can help you complete your equipment. Meanwhile, our local team is working to complete essential paperwork and climbing permits.
Meals: Breakfasts at the hotel
Accommodation: Nights at the hotel
We leave Kathmandu in the morning for a superb one-hour flight to Tumlingtar along the Himalayan range of Nepa, When the flight arrives, our vehicle awaits us to transport us to Num, a village perched above the Arun River, the starting point of the trek. Mode of transfer/transport: by plane and private vehicle to Num.
Duration of transfer/transport: Approximately 3 hours
Flight duration: Approximately 1 hour
Final altitude: Approximately 1,490 m
Meals: breakfast at the hotel – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in the lodge
The trek continues for a few more kilometers and plunges towards the tumultuous Arun. We leave our vehicles to continue on foot with our porters. Crossing on a suspension bridge and a long climb to the village of Seduwa with the characteristic habitat of the lower valleys.
Approximately 5 hours of Trek
Elevation difference: + 950 m / - 235 m
Final altitude: Approximately 1,600 m
Meals: Breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in a lodge
The path continues to rise above the valley but this time more or less following the contour lines, in a dense forest of bamboo then birch and rhododendron. Passage to the last village of the Arun valley, Tashi Gaon. Beyond, the path winds up to reach the Sadema mountain pasture.
6 hours of Trek
Elevation difference: + 750 m / - 180 m
Final altitude: Approximately 2,135 m
Meals: Breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in the lodge
Regular but long climb. The forest thins out and we begin to enjoy the high mountain scenery around us. The rhododendron forest, depending on the year, may still be in flower.
6 hours of trek
Elevation gain: + 1,100 m
Final altitude: approximately 3,470 m
Meals: Breakfast – Picnic– dinner
Accommodation: Night in a lodge
One of the most beautiful days of the trek, with the crossing of Shipton La (4,217 m) among the rhododendrons. At the start of the stage, we climb a grassy ridge with a clear view of the Chamlang and the Makalu. The path follows the ridge and goes upstairs. First pass, the Ghungru La (4,050 m) before descending to a small lake (3,850 m). Finally, a rocky corridor leads to Shipton La (4,217 m). Descent toward two other lakes (4,020 m), a new climb to cross Keke La (4,180 m). On the opposite side of the pass, pleasant descent to the Mumbuk mountain pasture and further Dobato.
6 hours of trek
Elevation difference: + 950 m / - 630 m
Final altitude: Approximately 3,800 m
Maximum altitude: Approximately 4,217 m
Meals: Breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in the lodge
The path, clinging to the steep sides of the Arun River basin, becomes more uncomfortable because it is less frequented. Only a few shepherds venture here. We continue through the primary forest before confronting the “Nepalese flat” (alternating climbs and descents, etc.) on a track constantly swept by landslides. One piece of advice: don’t hang around! We have lunch at the Phemathang Kharka before crossing the river on a new wooden bridge, the last one having been swept away by a gigantic mudslide in the spring of 2017. A new path has been hastily traced on the left bank of the Barun Khola but it still requires some adjustments. That said, it is still of much better quality than that of the morning. We reach Yangle Kharka, a “village” made up of a few wooden houses.
5 hours Of Trek
Elevation difference: + 400 m / - 600 m
Final altitude: Approximately 3,650 m
Meals: Breakfast – Lunch – Dinner
Rest is essential for our body to acclimatize to the altitude.
Final altitude: Approximately 3,650 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in the lodge
The first part of the day takes place on the left bank of the river on a temporary path traced on the pebble bed. The traces of a mudslide are impressive if we consider these rocks weighing several dozen tons which are in the middle of the river.We find the historic path after an hour of walking and we continue in a pine forest. Through the branches, we have splendid views of the glacial valleys of peaks 6 and 7. The climb is gradual up to the Merek camp while we distinguish, perched on the grassy moraine that closes this part of the valley, the lodge of Langmale recognizable by its blue roof. But before getting there, we will have to cross the “new” river bed, created by the mudflow, an indescribable hodgepodge of piled rocks in the middle of which the Sherpas have traced a marked route. Beyond that, all that remains is to climb the grassy moraine to reach the Langmale sheepfolds and 20 minutes further to reach the lodge. Superb view of Chamlang (7,320m), Peak IV (6,720m), Peak III (6,477m) and Peak V (6,404m).
Number of hours of walking: approximately 5 hours of trek
Elevation difference: + 800 m / - 35 m
Final altitude: Approximately 4,300 m
Meals: Breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in the lodge
After crossing the Langmale mountain pastures, we reach the left bank moraine of the West Barun glacier valley. We continue without much effort until Shershong where we turn to the right towards a well-marked pass in the middle of the moraine. At 4,900 m, we discover the imposing mass of the Himalayan giant, master of the place, Makalu, and its immense south face. It's huge! We continue along a contour path on the side of the moraine as we discover the base camp lodges in the mineral valley below. A short descent to cross the river and we are warm in the common room next to the lodge. Exceptional and unforgettable views... In the afternoon, you can go in 15 minutes to the moraine lake right next to the lodge and even gain a little height at the top of a pebble mound on which a labtse was erected in the middle of which colorful Buddhist flags, darchoks, are planted.
4 hours Trek
Elevation difference: + 520 m / - 100 m
Final altitude: approximately 4,870 m
Meals: Breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in lodge
We take advantage of these two days to climb Makalu Pattar (5,795 m), to complete our acclimatization and obtain a better view of Makalu and a beautiful panorama of the north face of Everest (Tibetan side). Return to camp and rest. 4 hours of Trek Elevation difference: + 925 m / - 925 m
Final Altitude: Approximately 4,870 m
Maximum Altitude: Approximately 5,795 m
Meals: breakfasts – lunches – dinners
Accommodation: Nights in a lodge
Progression along the moraines following a line of cairns first on a good path on the right bank of the Barun glacier, then by a large ascending traverse on this black glacier. We pass at the foot of the impressive west pillar of Makalu and witness the exploits of the team led by Robert Paragot in 1971. We cross the glacier to go up the scree slopes towards the northwest valley. We reach the real base camp or Advanced Base Camp from where all expeditions leave.
7 hours of Trek
Elevation gain: + 820 m
Final altitude: Approximately 5,690 m
Meals: Breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in the tent
We will devote 23 days to the ascent of Makalu, the main stages of the ascent of which are as follows:
Advanced base camp (5,690 m) to Camp 1 (6,165 m): 6 hours
Camp 1 (6,165 m) to Camp 2 (6,600 m): 3 to 4 hours
Camp 2 (6,600 m) to Camp 3 (7,500 m): 8 to 9 hours
Camp 3 (7,500 m) to Camp 4 (7,750 m): 4 to 5 hours
We take the path followed on the outward journey, but the stages are slightly different because we are trained and the return to a lower altitude gives us wings!
Approximately 6 hours
Final altitude: Approximately 4,100 m
Meals: Breakfast in the lodge – lunch – dinner in the lodge
Accommodation: Night in the lodge
Number of hours of walking: Approximately 6 hours
Final altitude: Approximately 3,800 m
Meals: Breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in the lodge
6 hours of trek
Final altitude: Approximately 2,135 m
Meals: Breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in the lodge
6 hours Trek
Final altitude: Approximately 1,490 m
Meals: Breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night in the lodge
Mode of transfer/transport: By private vehicle
Duration of transfer/transport: Approximately 4 hours
Meals: Breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: Night at the hotel
We take our one-hour flight to Kathmandu.
Mode of transfer/transport: Plane
Flight duration: approximately 1 hour
Meals: breakfast
Accommodation: night at the hotel
We take our one-hour flight to Kathmandu.
Mode of transfer/transport: Plane
Flight duration: Approximately 1 hour
Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: Night at the hotel
Reserve day, free and without a guide.
Meals: Breakfast at the hotel
Accommodation: Night at the hotel
Free time depending on the
departure time of your flight and our representative will drop you at the
airport, ending your journey in Nepal. We hope to be of service to you again.
Thank you and safe travels
Included & Excluded
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ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE :
Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by private vehicle.
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HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU :
4-night hotel in Kathmandu - single room on bed and breakfast plan.
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WELCOME DINNER :
One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office Staff.
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CARGO CLEARANCE :
Assistance for cargo clearance in Nepal’s Customs, clearance cost is subject to a charge.
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PERMIT :
Expedition Royalty and a permit fee of Nepal Government to climb Mt. MAKALU, MAKALU BARUN National Park entry permit and fee.
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LIAISON OFFICER :
Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
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GARBAGE MANAGEMENT :
Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit Fees.
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INSURANCE :
Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
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DUFFLE BAG :
One Duffle Bag.
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MEMBER TRANSPORTATION :
(Domestic Flight) Fly from Kathmandu – TUMLINGTAR and drive to Num: And return drive from Num to Tumlingtar and fly from Tumlingtar - Kathmandu, as per itinerary, as per itinerary.
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EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION :
All necessary expedition equipment transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar (by air cargo / Truck) and Base camp (by Porters) – While returning: Base camp to Tumlingtar (by porters) and Tumlingtar to Kathmandu (by air cargo / Truck). Based on the condition, different transportation variants may be adopted
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MEMBER LUGGAGE :
Up to 60 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters.
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FOOD AND LODGING :
3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/TENT during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and fresh green vegetables, fresh meat, fruits, soft drinks, and juice will be served during the entire expedition using helicopter flights. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
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CAMPING :
All necessary logistic arrangements for camping during the trek.
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PORTER :
Porters per member up to the basecamp and from the basecamp (both ways).
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BASE CAMP STAFF :
Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
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STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE :
All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
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BASE CAMP TENT :
Each member will have an individual tent in Base Camp.
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BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT :
Single Tent, foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dinning Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staffs Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tent, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
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HEATER :
Heater at base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.
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SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT :
Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, FOR battery charges, laptop, and other electronic devices.
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TRAINING :
Oxygen, Mask Regulator, Ice wall, and Ladder training at Basecamp by IFMGA Gide.
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HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA :
Government-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.
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ASSISTANCE :
Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.
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CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE :
Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.
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OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2) :
Summit Oxygen cylinder: 4 oxygen bottles (4 ltrs.) for each member and 2 oxygen bottles for each high-altitude Sherpa.
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OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR :
1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks & regulators for each member and high-altitude Sherpa.
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BACK-UP OXYGEN :
BACK-UP Oxygen Cylinder, mask, and regulator (with appropriate charge).
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HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) :
High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) (C3) and (C4). Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
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HIGH ALTITUDE TENT :
Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).
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ROPE FIXING TEAM :
The team of experienced Sherpas (including personal Sherpa) will fix the route in MAKALU (no extra charge will be applied to members)
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SATELLITE PHONE :
Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members WITH APPROPRIATE CHARGE.
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WALKIE-TALKIE :
Walkie-talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
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PERMITS :
Satellite Phone/walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
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WEATHER FORECAST :
Weather forecast report regularly entire expedition
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MEDICAL KIT :
Comprehensive Medical Kit for Members Staff
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CERTIFICATE :
MAKALU climbing certificate (after climbing Mt. MAKALU successfully).
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AIRFARE :
International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
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NEPAL ENTRY VISA FEE :
The Nepalese Visa fee is USD 125 for 90 Days.
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LUNCH & DINNER :
Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
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EXTRA NIGHTS IN KATHMANDU :
Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, or domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
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INSURANCE POLICY :
Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high-altitude rescue & air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory
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PERSONAL EXPENSES :
Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).
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PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT :
Clothing, Packing Items, Bags, Personal Medical Kit, and all kinds of Personal Trekking / Climbing Gear.
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TOILETRIES :
Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
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FILMING :
Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
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INTERNET SERVICE :
Not included during the trek.
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SUMMIT BONUS :
Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa- Minimum 1500 USD.
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TIPS :
Calculate some tips for basecamp and high camp staff – Minimum 350 USD.
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EXTRA :
Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary and not listed in the “COST INCLUDES” section.
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Note :
Due to unforeseeable factors (weather, fitness, customs, road conditions, landslides, etc.), your expedition leader may adjust the program as needed. The leader is the sole judge and guarantor of your safety. Activity times are for reference and may vary per participant. Note: The provided itinerary is for reference only and may vary per participant. It's flexible to accommodate weather conditions. Follow your guide's recommendations, who may cancel or stop the expedition for safety or physical reasons. Remember, this is an autonomous expedition with potential hazards. Alpinist club, your expedition leader, guide, or local teams cannot be held responsible for any unforeseen issues. |
Trip Organization
Your Guide and Team
Your guide, from your arrival in Kathmandu until your departure, is responsible for the success of your trip and oversees your team. Do not hesitate to ask him questions, respect his position as the team leader, and above all follow his advice! Often your guide is the only English-speaking member of the team. In the mountains and, especially when during high-altitude travels, your guide is responsible for the safety of the group. The instructions he gives and the remarks he makes to all participants must be carefully followed. The interest and safety of the trekking group must be preserved, even when it may be to the detriment of an individual member of the group.
Read MoreYour Nepalese team may consist of several people, each with different responsibilities. They are:
The Guide Leader (Sirdar) is responsible for and leader of the whole team and is treated with respect by all. Often he has earned his position by starting as a porter and rising through the ranks.
climbing sherpa: Experience mountain Guide, fixed rope, and guided to the summit
The Cook is responsible for all meals and is on a trek that doesn’t use lodges for meals.
The kitchen boy is an assistant to the cook. )
The Assistant Guide is actively helping clients under the leader’s direction and set camp.
The Porter is the load carrier for the trekking group. As Nepal is a mountain country with few roads, porters are employed to carry loads. Compliance with regulations and common courtesy dictates the maximum weight carried and the minimum wage paid. Porters are provided with gear based on the routes they follow and with insurance for alpine treks.
Each trekker is allotted the following maximum weights per person: Lodge (tea house) Accommodations: 15 kg maximum; Tent Camping: 22 kg maximum; Expeditions/summit ascents: 20 kg maximum. The porters are given a premium wage for carrying loads over 30 kg.
In addition, the Nepal Alpinist club takes care to take out insurance for the Guide and porters. Specific equipment is allocated to them for crossing passes at altitude (even if wearers often refuse to put on shoes due to lack of habit).
Accommodations in Kathmandu
In Kathmandu, you will be accommodated in a hotel. We use different hotels depending on availability. The two preferred hotels are:
Hotel Himalayan suit: Located in the heart of Thamel, this hotel is ideal for walking the bustling streets of Kathmandu. The spacious rooms all have a bathroom, air conditioning, and Wi-Fi. A fully equipped and active dining room is available for all meals, and the breakfast buffet offers a wide choice of foods. The hotel offers currency exchange, laundry services, and luggage storage.
Sampada Garden: Located just 20 minutes on foot from Thamel and Durbar Square, this hotel is convenient for exploring Kathmandu. The rooms have all the necessary comforts for your stay: air conditioning, bathroom, and Wi-Fi. Breakfasts are served as a generous buffet. The hotel provides currency exchange, laundry services, and luggage storage.
Accommodations during the Expedition
For camping, accommodation during the expedition: during the expedition, breakfasts, Lunch, and Dinner are prepared by the kitchen team. They are taken to the mess tent. additional energy food is provided. Purchased locally, they offer a more limited. You can, if you wish, bring some complementary cereal bars adapted to your taste.
For accommodation: meals are prepared by the cooks of the lodge and are taken from the lodge's dining room. Here is a typical one-day menu:
Breakfast: eggs, toast or chapati, or Tibetan bread or pancakes, or pancakes, butter/jam, tea or coffee
Lunch: a main course, tea or coffee
dinner: soup, main course, fruit (fresh or canned), tea or coffee
During the trek, tea or coffee is served with meals. Two cups per person are included.
Apart from these included menus, other drinks and foodstuffs will be at your expense.
Water: provide tablets (Hydroclovazone, Micropur, or another type) to disinfect the water you put in your water bottle, depending on the source and the advice of your guide. It is sometimes possible to buy purified water and refill your water bottle without having to buy bottled water. You can also buy mineral water in the cities (not included in the price) but its ecological balance is poor, as you know. Also, we do not recommend it.
Preparation for the Expedition
Preparing for the trek requires several months of preparation with 4 to 6-hour walks every weekend for stamina and participating in a sport that required short periods of high exertion.
Medical check-up
Being in good health is essential to fully enjoy your Alpinist Club trip. If your last medical visit was more than four years ago, please get another general physical exam and tell your doctor the nature of your trip (climate, altitude, difficulty, etc.). The altitude also has the effect of reviving dental problems or other chronic pain, so getting a dental checkup is also prudent. If you are undertaking a high-altitude expedition, we advise you to consult a mountain medicine specialist.
Acute Mountain Sickness
This trip takes place at high altitudes, so some people may experience altitude-related discomforts like headaches, loss of appetite, and swelling of limbs. Most of these symptoms usually go away within a few days, but sometimes they can develop into a serious illness: pulmonary or cerebral edema. There are no preventive drugs for AMS. Diamox diuretic is often effective for symptomatic relief, but you should first check with your doctor to verify that it is not contraindicated for you. Think about it before you go.
Less More
Trip Map
FAQ's
Expand AllOn May 15, 1955, Lionel Terray
and Jean Couzy, who were part of a French expedition headed by Jean Franco,
made the first ascent of Makalu, the fifth-highest mountain in the world.
Makalu has the fifth-highest
rating in the world and the fourth-highest rating in Nepal.
The elevation of Makalu is 8485
meters above sea level.
The needed permits to climb the
Makalu expedition are given below:
1. Makalu-Barun National Park
Entry Permit
2. Makalu Restricted Area Permit
3. Climbing Permit
The best seasons for the Makalu Expedition are
Spring and Autumn.
Mount Makalu is located in the
eastern region of Nepal, close to the Tibet (China) border, in the Mahalangur
Himalayas.
Several variables, including the
route chosen, the weather, and each climber's speed, affect how long the Makalu
Expedition lasts. It usually takes 45 to 60 days to complete the entire
excursion.
It wouldn't be an exaggeration to
say that ascending Makalu is more challenging than Everest. The first summit
did not make the Makalu trek any less dangerous. Mountaineers made several
attempts to reach Makalu, but they were unsuccessful due to the difficult path
and navigation.
The Makalu Expedition requires outstanding
strength, stamina, mental toughness, and physical condition. In addition to
specialized training and planning for high-altitude trips, prior mountaineering
expertise is required.
