Addres:
Thamel - Kathmandu - Nepal
E-mail:
info@alpinistclub.com
Contact No:
+977 9843603583
1 Person From:
$
2 Person From:
$
Max. Elevation: 7,678 M
Best Season: Spring- Autumn- Winter
Duration: 38 days
Trip Grading: Easy
Activity: Expedition
Transport: Private vehicle
Accommodation: Hotel- Lodge
Meals: Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
Availability Status: Breakfast- Lunch- Dinner
Climb Makalu II (Kangchungtse), a 7,678m peak ideal for mountaineers preparing for 8,000ers. Experience steep technical sections, high-altitude challenges, and breathtaking Himalayan views on this classic training expedition in Nepal.
At 7,678 meters, Makalu II, also known as Kangchungtse, is a prime objective for mountaineers preparing for eight-thousand-meter peaks. First summited in 1953 by French climbers Jean Franco and Lionel Terray, along with Sherpas Gyalzen and Pa Norbu, Makalu II lies at the end of the long north-northwest ridge descending from Makalu, dropping to Makalu La (7,500 m) before rising again to the summit.
The most challenging sections of the climb are found between Camp 2 (6,600 m) and Camp 3 (7,500 m), beyond Makalu La. Here, climbers face steep ice, snow, and rock slopes with angles of 50–55°, guarding access to the col. Beyond this point, the final ascent to the summit is less technical, though high altitude remains a significant challenge.
Makalu II offers mountaineers an exceptional high-altitude climbing experience with stunning views of the Himalayas, making it an ideal training ground for those aiming to tackle Nepal’s highest peaks.
DAY 1: ARRIVAL IN KATHMANDU
Participants arrive in Kathmandu. Our team will greet you at the airport and manage your transfer to the hotel. Passports will be collected for processing the climbing permit
DAYS 2 & 3: KATHMANDU PREPARATION DAYS
Expedition briefing with the team leader regarding required equipment. If needed, additional gear can be purchased in the mountaineering shops around Thamel. Meanwhile, our local staff will handle administrative formalities and finalize climbing permits.
DAY 4: FLIGHT KATHMANDU TO TUMLINGTAR & DRIVE TO NUM
Morning flight to Tumlingtar offers spectacular views of the Nepal Himalayas, including Langtang, Rolwaling, and the distant Khumbu peaks. Upon landing, our private vehicle will transfer us to Num, a village overlooking the Arun River and the starting point of our trek.
DAY 5: TREK NUM TO ARUN RIVER TO SEDUWA
The trail follows a descending route toward the Arun River. After leaving the vehicle behind, we continue on foot with our porters. We cross a suspension bridge and climb steadily to Seduwa, a charming village with traditional lowland houses.
DAY 6: TREK SEDUWA TO TASHI GAON TO SADEMA
We trek through bamboo, birch, and rhododendron forest, contouring above the valley. After passing Tashi Gaon— the final permanent settlement in the Arun Valley— the trail climbs in switchbacks to the Sadema pasture.
DAY 7: TREK SADEMA TO KONGMA KHARKA
A long, steady ascent. The forest gradually thins, revealing increasingly impressive high-mountain scenery. In some seasons, the rhododendrons may still be blooming.
DAY 8: TREK KONGMA KHARKA TO SHIPTON LA TO KEKE LA TO MUMBUK TO DOBATO
A stunning day crossing the Shipton La Pass (4,217 m) through rhododendron forests. We ascend a ridge with spectacular views of Chamlang and Makalu. After crossing several passes—Ghungru La (4,050 m) and Keke La (4,180 m)—we descend gradually to the Mumbuk pastures and continue to Dobato.
DAY 9: TREK DOBATO TO YANGLE KHARKA
The path traverses steep slopes above the Arun basin and can be narrow and exposed. After crossing a forest and navigating sections affected by landslides, we reach Phemathang Kharka for lunch. A new wooden bridge leads us across the Barun Khola before continuing to Yangle Kharka, a settlement of a few wooden lodges.
DAY 10: ACCLIMATIZATION DAY IN YANGLE KHARKA
A full rest day to help our bodies acclimatize to altitude.
DAY 11: TREK YANGLE KHARKA TO BARUN GLACIER TO LANGMALE KHARKA
We follow the left bank of the river on a temporary trail shaped by past mudslides. After rejoining the original path, we enter a pine forest with beautiful views of the glacial valleys of Peaks 6 and 7. A gentle ascent brings us to Merek, then across the new riverbed formed by landslide debris, before climbing to Langmale Kharka.
DAY 12: TREK LANGMALE TO HILLARY BASE CAMP
We cross the Langmale pastures and follow the moraine on the west side of the Barun Glacier. At Shershong, we turn toward a pass that offers the first breathtaking view of Makalu’s massive south face. We contour along the moraine before descending to cross the river and reach Hillary Base Camp. Optional afternoon hike to a nearby moraine lake and prayer-flag hill.
DAYS 13 & 14: ACCLIMATIZATION AT HILLARY BASE CAMP
Two full days dedicated to acclimatization, including an ascent of Makalu Pattar (5,795 m) for exceptional panoramic views, including the north face of Everest. Return to camp for rest.
DAY 15: ASCENT TO ADVANCED BASE CAMP (TRUE MAKALU BASE CAMP)
We follow cairns through lateral moraines and across the Barun Glacier. After passing below the dramatic west pillar of Makalu below, we ascend scree slopes toward the northwest couloir and arrive at Advanced Base Camp (ABC).
DAYS 16–30: ASCENT OF MAKALU II / KANGCHUNGTSE
A 14-day climbing window is allocated for summit attempts. Key stages include:
ABC (5690 m) → Camp 1 (6165 m): ~6 hours
Gentle ascent through the northwest couloir. One acclimatization night.
DAY 31: TREK HILLARY BASE CAMP TO MEREK
We begin our descent, now faster and easier due to improved acclimatization.
DAY 32: TREK MEREK TO MUMBUK TO DOBATO
DAY 33: TREK DOBATO TO SADEMA
DAY 34: TREK SADEMA TO NUM
DAY 35: TRANSFER NUM TO TUMLINGTAR
Drive back to Tumlingtar.
DAY 36: FLIGHT TUMLINGTAR TO KATHMANDU
Return flight to Kathmandu (1 hour).
DAY 37: FREE DAY IN KATHMANDU
A full day for independent sightseeing, shopping, or relaxation.
DAY 38: INTERNATIONAL DEPARTURE
Transfer to the airport for your international flight back home, depending on your schedule.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE : ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE :
Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by private vehicle.
HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU : HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU :
4-night hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) - single room on bed and breakfast plan.
WELCOME DINNER : WELCOME DINNER :
One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Offices' Staff.
PERMITS : PERMITS : Makalu II climbing Expedition permit and all necessary trekking permits
LICENSE OFFICER : LICENSE OFFICER :
1 Government-licensed officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
GARBAGE MANAGEMENT : GARBAGE MANAGEMENT :
Stool Shipment Transfer and Garbage Deposit Fees.
INSURANCE : INSURANCE : Medical and Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
MAP : MAP :
Trekking and climbing map.
DUFFLE BAG : DUFFLE BAG :
One Alpinist club Duffle Bag.
MEMBER TRANSPORTATION : MEMBER TRANSPORTATION :
Drive Kathmandu to Besishahar and fly back from Pokhara to Kathmandu, as per the itinerary.
EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION : EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION :
All necessary expedition equipment transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar (by air cargo) and Base camp (by Porters / Yak) – While returning: Base camp to Tumlingtar (by porters / Yak) and Tumlingtar to Kathmandu (by air cargo).
MEMBER LUGGAGE : MEMBER LUGGAGE :
Up to 40 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters or Yaks.
FOOD AND LODGING : FOOD AND LODGING :
3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at the hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and fresh green vegetables, fresh meat, fruits, and soft drinks will be served during the entire expedition using helicopter flights. Well-managed base camp set up for members and Staff.
PORTER : PORTER : Porters per member up to the Base camp and from the Base camp (both ways).
BASE CAMP STAFF : BASE CAMP STAFF :
Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook and kitchen Helpers as required.
STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE : STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE :
All Nepalese staff and porters' daily wages, salary, equipment, food, and clothing.
BASE CAMP TENT : BASE CAMP TENT : Each member will have an individual tent in Base Camp.
BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT : BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT :
Single Tent, foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dining Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet and 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staff Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tents, Tables and chairs, and all necessary cooking gears.
HEATER : HEATER :
Heater at base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.
SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT : SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT :
1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, for laptop and other electronic devices.
TRAINING : TRAINING :
Oxygen, Mask Regulator, Ice wall, and gear training at Basecamp by Sherpa Guide.
HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA : HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA :
1 government-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.
ASSISTANCE : ASSISTANCE :
Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.
CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE : CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE :
Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.
BONUS : BONUS :
Carry Bonus of Sherpas and Route Fixing Charges.
OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2) : OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2) :
Oxygen bottles will be in stock at base camp in case of an emergency (with an appropriate charge).
OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR : OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR : 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks will be in base camp in case of an emergency.
HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) : HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) :
High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) and (C3). Group climbing gears, and fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
HIGH ALTITUDE TENT : HIGH ALTITUDE TENT :
Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).
ROPE FIXING TEAM : ROPE FIXING TEAM :
The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the rope and the route.
SATELLITE PHONE : SATELLITE PHONE :
Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members with an appropriate charge.
WALKIE-TALKIE : WALKIE-TALKIE :
Walkie–Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
WEATHER FORECAST : WEATHER FORECAST : Weather forecast report during the entire expedition.
MEDICAL KIT : MEDICAL KIT :
Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
CERTIFICATE : CERTIFICATE :
Makalu II climbing certificate (after climbing Makalu II successfully).
AIR FARE :
International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
NEPAL ENTRY VISA FEE :
The Nepalese Visa fee is $ 125 USD for 90 Days.
LUNCH & DINNER :
Lunch and dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
EXTRA NIGHTS IN KATHMANDU :
Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
INSURANCE POLICY :
Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high altitude rescue and air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory
PERSONAL EXPENSES :
Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu, but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp)
PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT :
Clothing, Packing Items, Bags, Personal Medical Kit, and all kinds of Personal Trekking / Climbing Gear.
FILMING : Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
INTERNET SERVICE :
Not included during the trek and the expedition.
EXTRA : Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary, and other items not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.
Your Nepalese team may consist of several people, each with different responsibilities. They are:
YOUR PRIVATE GUIDE IN MAKALU II CLIMBING EXPEDITION
The keystone of your success on all of our expeditions, we are systematically on a ratio of one high altitude sherpa per participant. He accompanies you for the key moments of the ascent and during the summit push. He is particularly experienced for high altitudes. He has participated in several expeditions at more than 8,000 meters, successfully leading participants to the summit. We select him for you. He is generally English-speaking. He may not be permanently at your side in the rotations between the camps, his role also being to carry out the portages to set up the camps.
There is a summit bonus for your high-altitude sherpa to be paid on-site in cash after the climb. This bonus is due from the moment you leave the last camp towards the summit during your summit push attempt.
EXPEDITION LEADER IN MAKALU II CLIMBING EXPEDITION
His role is important in leading the strategy necessary for success: rotation in the altitude camps, acclimatization of each participant, and study of weather reports to decide on the optimum moment to launch the summit push.
The expedition leader represents the Alpinist Club to the group. Mainly based at the base camp, he can accompany you to the high-altitude camps to supervise the smooth running of the expedition's logistics. He makes the necessary decisions that may be required. His authority is preponderant and unavoidable. You must respect his decisions as well as those taken collectively.
KITCHEN AND PORTERS TEAM
A kitchen team will be present at the base camp.
There is a team of porters who help us set up the base camp with all the equipment and the kitchen. Beyond that, the team of high-altitude sherpas takes over. They help us in particular in setting up the high altitude camps and in portaging from the base camp.
Each participant will have to take care of carrying their personal belongings and altitude food. The collective equipment is transported by the Nepalese team. Our backpack will be calibrated from 10 to 12 kg.
For unforeseeable reasons at this stage, including weather but also the fitness or lack of fitness of the participants, your guide may have to adapt or even interrupt your program at any time if he deems it necessary, whether for the whole group or for a few participants, and for the smooth running of your trip. He remains the sole judge and guarantor of your safety.
PHYSICAL LEVEL IN MAKALU CLIMBING EXPEDITION
This program is designed for participants in excellent physical condition, with endurance experience, and strong mental resilience. High-altitude challenges require significant mountain experience, including hiking, trekking, or mountaineering. Participants should know how to use ropes and operate in a roped party, whether alone or with a guide.
TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES IN MAKALU II CLIMBING EXPEDITION
Experience with high-altitude expeditions and basic mountaineering skills (handling crampons, harness, ice axe, and ropes) is required. The route includes mild challenges, such as snow slopes at 30–35° and glacial passages. Suitable for those with some mountaineering experience who want to progress. Weather and environmental conditions can increase difficulty.
For more preparation, consider our mountaineering courses or expeditions to progressively higher peaks (5,000m to 7,000m).
ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU AND DURING THE EXPEDITION
Hotel in Kathmandu: In Kathmandu, we will provide you with a single room in a hotel
During the trek, you will stay in the Lodge. Lodges in Nepal are very random in terms of comfort. Lodges can look like a refuge or sometimes a homestay. They are mostly family homes with double, triple, or dormitory rooms. Toilets and showers are always separate.
Base camp: At the base camp, we are in individual tents. A base camp for several weeks must be as comfortable as possible, to allow a good recovery on returning from the high-altitude camps. It must allow us to face a period of bad weather in the best possible conditions. Each participant has their own tent with a comfortable mattress. A heated mess tent is the main living area. Tables and chairs are permanently installed there. We also have a shower tent and a toilet tent (solid waste in evacuated barrels)
High Altitude Camps
During the ascent, at the high camps, we have a high-altitude tent for 2 people, or even 3 people at the last camps.
Hygiene & dry cleaning
MEALS IN KATHMANDU AND TREKKING
Upon arrival in Kathmandu, a welcome dinner is provided on the first evening. Similarly, upon return from the expedition, a farewell meal is provided.
In the cities, many small (or large) restaurants allow us to discover the typical local cuisine. Except for Kathmandu, breakfasts and evening meals are prepared by the kitchen team or the lodge cooks and are taken in the lodge dining room or under the mess tent. Depending on the profile of the stages (length of the day's walk and/or presence of water), midday snacks will be served hot or cold in the form of picnics.
Here is a typical one-day menu during the trek:
During the trek, Meals are prepared by the kitchen team in the lodge and are taken in the lodge dining room
Base Camp Meal: All meals are prepared by the kitchen team using local ingredients, including rice, pasta, lentils, potatoes, vegetables, eggs, a little meat, etc. They are served to you in a Dinning tent. Non-alcoholic hot drinks such as tea or coffee are offered to you at will. We recommend that you stay constantly hydrated.
High Altitude Camps Meal: At high altitudes, eating can be difficult, and freeze-dried food is usually necessary. While this food might taste fine at lower elevations, it can quickly become unappealing in high-altitude camps. we will provide freeze-dried dishes and share your preferences. We’ll do our best to match these, depending on available stock. You can also bring up your favorite foods for the expedition.
For a higher camp
Each tent is equipped with a stove to melt snow for water, prepare freeze-dried meals, and make hot drinks. Gas cartridges will be provided
Stay Hydration: Bring water purification tablets (like Hydroclonazone or Micropur) to treat water, depending on the source and your guide's advice. Purified water may sometimes be available, reducing the need for bottled water, which is less eco-friendly. Glacier meltwater lacks minerals, which your meals partly provide. However, relying only on tea, coffee, or plain water can lead to poor hydration, stomach issues, and mineral deficiencies on long expeditions. To avoid this, pack 2–3 tubes of mineral salt tablets (10 tablets per tube) to add to your water bottle.
TRANSFERS / TRANSPORT DURING TRIP
All transfers are provided in private vehicles.
For various reasons, we prefer trekking to reach the base camp: the progression designed for acclimatization allows you to prepare yourself physically and psychologically for the climb. It is also the ideal time to get to know the team and to start building a team spirit and cohesion.
The return is also planned as a trek. That said, the possibility of taking the helicopter on the way back is possible for an additional fee.
GROUP SIZE
The group is composed of 1 to 10 participants maximum. The number of participants is voluntarily limited to allow a better immersion, to not embarrass our hosts, to develop spaces of freedom and to allow a great flexibility of operation. However, the maximum number can be exceeded in the case where the last person who registers wishes to travel with another or several other people. The services will not be modified, and the conditions of the trip will be identical as a result.
COLLECTIVE CAMP EQUIPMENT
All logistical equipment is provided, including individual tents at the base camp with mattresses, mess tent, shower tent and toilet tent, as well as all collective and individual cooking equipment. At altitude, tents, stoves with gas cartridges, ropes and anchors.
INDIVIDUAL EQUIPMENT
Personal equipment is not provided. A complete list is provided later in this document. It will be refined with us during the preparation days and up until the time of departure, according to your questions.
High altitude sleeping bags, full suits, and/or good quality down jackets are expensive items that you may not use often. We can rent you this specific equipment for the duration of the expedition. You must then return the equipment cleaned and in the condition in which it was given to you (deposit required).
SECURITY AND COMMUNICATION
We have at least one Iridium satellite phone that is used only for logistical, weather, and security purposes. Under certain conditions, participants may use it. For these private uses, please contact us.
The camps will be permanently connected by radio. Expedition leader, participants, and high-altitude sherpas will also have access to this.
The expedition will have a hyperbaric chamber at the base camp and a complete, lighter pharmacy at the higher camps.
PREPARATION FOR MAKALU II CLIMBING EXPEDITION
Preparing for the trek requires several months of preparation with 4 to 6-hour walks every weekend for stamina and participating in a sport that requires short periods of high exertion.
MEDICAL CHECK-UP
Being in good health is essential to enjoy your Alpinist Club trip fully. If your last medical visit was more than four years ago, please get another general physical exam and tell your doctor the nature of your trip (climate, altitude, difficulty, etc.). The altitude also has the effect of reviving dental problems or other chronic pain, so getting a dental checkup is also prudent. If you are undertaking a high-altitude expedition, we advise you to consult a mountain medicine specialist.
ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS
This trip takes place at high altitudes, so some people may experience altitude-related discomfort like headaches, loss of appetite, and swelling of limbs. Most of these symptoms usually go away within a few days, but sometimes they can develop into a serious illness: pulmonary or cerebral edema. There are no preventive drugs for AMS. Diamox diuretic is often effective for symptomatic relief, but you should first check with your doctor to verify that it is not contraindicated. Think about it before you go.