MERA AMPHU LAPCHE AND ISLAND PEAK - Alpinist Club

MERA AMPHU LAPCHE AND ISLAND PEAK

Group Size

2-16 people

meal

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

accomodation

Tent, lodge, Hotel

arrival on

Kathmandu

departure from

Kathmandu

trip level

moderate

max. altitude

6,476 m

Best season

Autumn, Spring

trip highlights

  • View of the highest peaks in the world
  • 2 climbs over 6,000 meters in one trip
  • Amphu Lapche pass at 5,850 meters
  • Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Kangchenjunga at a glance!

trip introduction

Mera Amphu lapche and island peak climbing are technical trips in Nepal Himalayan.  however, we fly to  Lukla to start our trek. we reach a valley located east of the Dudh Kosi, “the river of milk”, which winds at the foot of some of the most beautiful mountains of Khumbu island and Mera peak climbing.

 we continue to  Mera pass (5,415 m) with our goal as a backdrop. Mera peak (6,476 m), is the highest trekking peak in Nepal. The mera peak ascent does not present much difficulty. even, it is a snow race with moderate slopes. After passing the Amphu Lapsa pass (5850 m), we climb Island Peak (6,180 m) to end this altitude journey.

Classified in Nepal among the easy trekking peaks, Island Peak (6189 m), at the foot of the immense south face of Lhotse, looks great and will not be climbed by the first hiker! Its geographical location in the heart of the most beautiful mountains of Khumbu. therefore, its summit is a real belvedere. The acclimatization trek associated with the ascent takes us to the foot of Everest

Itinerary

Arrival in Kathmandu. you are greeted at the airport by our team and then transferred to our hotel. Evening briefing from your guide.

approximately 15 hours of driving to the hotel
Final altitude: approximately 13,50 m
Meals:  dinner
Accommodation: night in the hotel

We reserve this day for sightseeing in Kathmandu Valley and to prepare for trekking. After having a warm breakfast, we will leave the hotel in a private vehicle with an experienced tour guide. We will visit several UNESCO-listed world heritage sites in Kathmandu valley and the famous sacred Hindu temple, the Pashupatinath temple, Swayambhunath stupa, and Boudhanath stupa. These places are famous to have inherited ancient religious practices, architecture, and culture.

Final altitude: approximately 13,50 m
Meals: breakfast
Accommodation: Night in the hotel.

We leave Kathmandu in the morning for a superb flight to Lukla (35 min) where we meet our team. We first follow a gently sloping path. We cross a shoulder to a sheepfold then a big climb awaits us before a “Nepalese dish” in a rhododendron forest. We descend slightly and cross a torrent before ascending to the hamlet of Thukdingma. There is only one last zigzag climb in the middle of a forest to reach the village of Chutanga.

approximately 3 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 3,250 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

From Chutanga we go up a winding path through a wooded slope towards the austere gorge which dominates the village. Through the trees, we can make out Chutanga below and even the tall houses of Lukla and in the distance the mountains that border the Thame valley. We reach the Kharkateng lodge and continue on an excellent path but often snowy or even icy in autumn (poles recommended). We go up the slope under a rocky bar to reach a grassy shoulder. The view of the Himalayas now widens to Cho Oyu, this 8,153-meter peak located on the Tibetan border straddling the valleys of Thame and Gokyo lakes. From the pass, the “descent” to the Hinku Khola valley requires crossing a new pass, the Zatrwa La, which can be seen at the height at the bottom of the valley.

5 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 41,50 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

We descend in the direction of the valley to find a path on the side of the cliff which gives access to a valley. We cross it and cross a ridge. The path continues by crossing a new valley until arriving in front of a scree corridor that we go up on a superb arranged staircase. We cross a shoulder that gives access to a balcony path from which we discover the Hinku Khola valley dominated by the Mera peak. We descend into a forest of young rhododendrons then reach the site of Thulo Dunga. The descent continues on the cliffside. A “Nepalese flat” then leads us to Tashing Dingma followed by a severe climb up the cliffside on a steep staircase to pass a shoulder before descending on the other side to overlook the Hinku Khola from the edge of the moraine. The atmosphere is very austere. The trail now remains very close to the river that we finally leave by going up into a pine forest. We arrive at Khote.

approximately 3 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 35,50 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

From the village of Khote, we continue along the river with the south face of Mera peak in our sights. We pass the confluence of the Hinku Khola with the Sanu Khola and discover mountains that complete the panorama to the left of the Kyashar. A slow ascent on the stony moraine then we go up through the boulders along the river to Saure. The climb continues pleasantly through mountain pastures to Duk gompa, located in a cave. Then we move away from the river to climb the moraine to a sheepfold to finish on the stony flat of the Thangnag moraine basin. The village is located behind a large pile of pebbles facing the impressive heights of moraines that descend from the glacial complex of Mera peak. The views on the peaks are splendid:

5 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 42,40 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

Acclimatization day at the altitude with the optional ascent of a panoramic grassy ridge above the village towards Thangnag Ri up to 4,900 meters or a little more. Beautiful view overlooking all the glacial valleys that have carved out at the foot of the mountains, from Gonghla to Mera peak. Nice conditioning… Return to the village at the beginning of the afternoon.

5 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 42,40 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

We leave the village crossing the stony moraine to find the start of the Mera La trail which is at the foot of a grassy moraine. The summit of Kyashar presents a vertical rock face that ends in a sharp point while at the rear we contemplate the succession of the glacial crest of the Charpote Himal of Kusum Kanguru and Gonghla. We progress on the flat and follow a sandy expanse then we go up again to reach a flat area. We set foot on a grassy moraine before discovering the first houses of Khare under Peak 41.

5 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 48,60 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

Acclimatization and practice of the mountaineering technique on a glacier towards Mera-la. This is the opportunity to check everyone’s equipment and to familiarize themselves with (crampons, ice ax, helmet, harness, and jumar handle).

5 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 49,00 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the tent

We climb the moraine to cross the Mera La at 5,415 meters. The mountain circus is strikingly beautiful. We pass a shoulder then scree from where we see the Mera Peak, then the Kangtega. Crossing the pass does not present any difficulties and the views of Kusum Kanguru and peak 41 are superb. We reach the Mera La base camp located on the side of the Hunku Khola valley at the foot of the Naulekh. At the beginning of the afternoon, a little practice of the technique of mountaineering on the icy slopes of the southern slope of Mera La. This is the opportunity to check everyone’s equipment and to familiarize themselves with (crampons, ice axe , helmet, harness, and Jumar handle).

5h30m of walking
Final altitude: around 5,350 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a tent

From the base camp of Mera Peak, we go up to the pass on the side of the glacial tongue than on snow slopes. Behind us: Everest and Nuptse are revealed then Makalu and Kangchenjunga appear in a pass between two peaks. The fifth 8000 of the day finally appears: the Cho Oyu. We arrive at Mera Peak High Camp, located near the rocky outcrop at the foot of the Mera Glacier.

5 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 58,00 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the tent

The hardest and most beautiful day of the trip! We start very early the ascent of the summit (northern slope) first by a regular slope at 30 ° then on the end which can reach 40 °. Sometimes it is necessary to equip with a fixed rope. From the top, we admire the most prestigious Himalayan summits including four 8000 m: Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Kangchenjunga. But also Ama Dablam, Nutpse, Baruntse and the south face of Lhotse. The descent is long (but beautiful, facing this legendary landscape) to find the base camp of Mera La.

10 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 53,50 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the tent

Today we are going from mineral to mineral but with a very nice portion of mountain pastures where it is good to find greenery. We pass Kongme Dingma before heading towards the lake of the egg (Anda tal in Nepali). Then the path goes in an almost level curve to find the bed of Hunku Khola dominated by the gigantic icy faces of Chamlang. Then a quiet climb interspersed with a few short climbs leads us to the edge of Lake Seto Pokhari (the white lake in Nepali) at the end of which is the Chamlang base camp, a summit at 7,319 m climbed for the first time. on May 31, 1962, by a Japanese team. Cold night to be expected.

approximately 5 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 50,25 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the tent

After a thunderous awakening with the cackling of the ptarmigan, we head to the foot of the Amphu Lapsa, a glacial pass that is used during the expeditions that come or go to Makalu or Baruntse. We evolve in an atmosphere of high mountain, rugged and moraine, and cross many lakes embedded in the rockery.

5 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 53,60 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the tent

We climb to cross the pass of Amphu Lapsa, tacking between the seracs of the glacier on the south face. From the passage of the pass, exceptional peripheral view of the high mountains of Khumbu with at the bottom the moraine valley of Imja glacier. After contemplation, a bit of seriousness by following on a stony track on the north face to reach the start of a rocky and icy corridor that the management team will secure (abseiling or top rope) for about fifty meters before being able to access the glacier supply basin. Then, following the wide edge of the lateral moraine, we reach in constant descent the hamlet of Chukhung located on the “classic” trekking path of the high passes of Everest.

approximately 9 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 44,70 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

We will start ascending early to arrive at the Island Base Camp and our route now gets difficult once we arrive at the foot of the pointed icefall below the peak. Great care has to be taken while ascending the wall to reach the edge which leads to the summit. After getting to the summit, you will move down to the Island Peak Base Camp.

approximately 6 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 50,90 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the tent

In the early morning, we will begin our climbing to arrive at the summit. Our trail will get complicated once we reach the bed of the pointed icefall beneath the peak. In order to succeed, great caution must be implemented while balancing the barrier to approach out on the rim leading to the summit. After we reach the summit, we will be back at the base camp.

approximately 9 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 50,25 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the tent

This will be a reserve day for us. Due to unpredictable weather, we might not be able to make the ascent. If such a case arises on the scheduled summit day, we will make the climb today.

Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the tent

Today we traverse the Khumbu River on a wooden suspension bridge and walk following the Imja Khola to the community of Pangboche trek for around 5 hours today. 

6 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 39,00 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

Today, we will walk beside the river and, after coming across we make our way up through birch and rhododendron forest to Tengboche. From Tengboche, we move down to the bridge above the Dudh Koshi at Phunki Tenga and then we return back to Namche. We will walk for around 5 hours. Tonight at a guest house in Namche.

5 hours of walking
Final altitude:  34,40 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

Following the track, we arrive at Lukla scaling different Sherpa villages crossing a suspension bridge above Thado Kosh. For about 45 minutes, we go up to accomplish the whole trail and we reconfirm the flight ticket and see off to local porters.

approximately 6 hours of walking
Final altitude: 2800 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge

Flight to Ramechapp airport then transfer to Kathmandu. The flight is subject to weather conditions, a delay in the day of rotation is possible. This is why we always plan a reserve day in Kathmandu before resuming the international flight. Transfer to the hotel in Kathmandu and a free afternoon.

Night in the hotel. evening. Transfer: 15 min flight and 4 to 5 h drive.

Free day in Kathmandu also serves as a security day in case of problems on the Lukla / Kathmandu or during trekking. Today, you have a rest day to relax or you can also go shopping in Kathmandu or you can do anything you like to by yourself. 

Final altitude: 1350 m
Meals: breakfast
Accommodation: night in the hotel

free time depending on the departure time of your flight and our representative will drop you to the airport, ending your journey in Nepal. We hope to be of service to you again. Thank you and safe travels.

inclusion

what's included

  • Pick up from the airport and Final drop to the airport by private vehicle
  • Domestic flights described in the program.
  • Collective and individual camping and cooking equipment.
  • Accommodation as described in the paragraph “On-site organization”.
  • Meals as indicated in the “Day to day” program.
  • Dinner on the last evening in Kathmandu (except for drinks).
  • Supervision by an English-speaking Nepalese guide throughout the trip.
  • The assistance of a local team during the trekking (sirdar, porters, cooks).
  • The special permit for this region of Nepal.
  • All Government tax

what's not included

The price does not include

  • Cancellation/interruption of stay/loss of luggage insurance and assistance.
  • All that is not indicated in the section “The price includes”.

Your expenses on site

  • Visa fees on arrival.
  • Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu and Nepalganj
  • Any additional luggage on domestic flights.
  • The drinks.

TIPS

Tips are an integral part of the country’s culture. This gesture of thanks, which varies according to the itinerary and the duration, has become an obligation. A prize pool is created, given at the end of the trip to the members of the team.

However, it is important that the tip remains a gratuity, as our teams are also very well paid. We invite you to distribute tips only if the service has met your expectations and to reduce this sum if the services were not sufficient, explaining why in order to consolidate our educational work.

 

 

Accomodation & meal

ACCOMMODATION

In a standard category hotel (base: double room) in Kathmandu and Pokhara, during the rest of the trip in a tent (3-person tents for 2 people) or in a lodge depending on the trip. The lodges in Nepal are very comfortable random. In general, conditions are quite good around the Annapurnas and the Everest region. On the other hand, in Mustang, in the Manaslu,  Tsum valley, and in the region of Kangchanjung or Makalu, they can be very rudimentary to the point of being a dormitory sometimes even a kitchen. lodges can look like a refuge or sometimes a bed and breakfast from home. Most of the time it is a family house with double, triple, or dormitory rooms. Toilets and showers are always separate.

MEAL

In the cities, many restaurants allow us to discover the typical local cuisine. Meat is scarce in the high mountain, the Nepalese are generally vegetarians. The basic ingredients are rice, pasta, lentils, potatoes, vegetables. Snacks are included during the trek (cereal bars, dried fruits, etc.).

For camping trek accommodation: during the trek, breakfasts and evening meals are prepared by the kitchen team. They are taken under the mess tent. Depending on the profile of the stages (length of the day’s walk and/or presence of water), midday snacks will be served hot or cold in the form of picnics.

For tea house trek accommodation: meals are prepared by the cooks of the lodge and are taken in the dining room. Here is a typical one-day menu:

  • breakfast: eggs, toast or chapati, or Tibetan bread or pancakes, or pancakes, butter/jam, tea or coffee
  • lunch: the main course, tea or coffee.
  • dinner: soup, main course, fruit (fresh or canned), tea or coffee

NB: Hindus and Buddhists are most often vegetarians. We, therefore, eat very little meat or fish. The dishes are pasta, rice, potatoes, lentils, etc.

DRINKS: during the trek, tea is served with meals (two cups of tea per meal). Additional cups of tea and other beverages, including mineral water, are the responsibility of the participants. You can fill your gourds with water in the lodges, but it is essential to treat them with purifying tablets. Avoid buying plastic bottles.

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  • duration :

    26 days
  • difficulty level :

    moderate

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