Ama Dablam Expedition
Ama Dablam expedition is the most famous climbing peak.This pyramid of rock and ice is a very nice objective for experienced climbers with, as a reward at the top, a fantastic view of the giants over 8000m that surround it, including Everest. Its aesthetics and difficulty are real but superable for an experienced mountaineer, making it particularly attractive. Despite, everything it is accessible to about twenty climbers every day when the weather is good.
Nepal
28 Days
Technical
Expedition
7812m
Spring - Autumn
Hotel-Lodge-Tent
Included
kathmandu-lukla/Lukla - Kathmandu
Climbing Beautiful Mountains on Earth
Ama Dablam expedition is considered the most beautiful and technical climbing peak in the world. many mountaineers and trekkers have passed during expeditions or treks to Everest base camp. Ama Dablam everyone has dreamed of it because its summit pyramid has impressed more than one. At 6,856 meters above sea level, Mt. Ama Dablam represents a holy grail for seasoned mountaineers. To achieve this dream, we will climb in a small group of participants. therefore, we provide an experienced Nepalese mountain guide per participant for their security.
Ama Dablam climbing itinerary and Route
During the Ama Dablam expedition, We follow a normal route from the southwest. The route was opened by Mike Gill, Barry Bishop, Mike Ward, and Wally Romanes in 1961. Ama Dablam expedition is in the Khumbu massif, at the foot of two 8000, Everest and Lhotse.
Ama Dablam Base camp to camp 1
We now have 15 days from base camp -summit - base camp, dedicated to your further acclimatization, rest, fix of the various high-altitude camps, and the final ascent to the summit. The route between the base camp and the advanced base camp (5400m): the path follows the ridgeline (gentle slope) which dominates the base camp. The route between the advanced base camp (5400m) and Camp 1 (5800m): crosses an area of large blocks of rocks. The camp is located above a large slab of rock a hundred meters away that can be slippery.
Ama Dablam Camp 1 to camp 2
Itinerary between Camp 1 and Camp 2 (6000m): the route follows a horizontal ridge with many crossings and passes several projections. At the end of this ridge is the “yellow tower”: a vertical projection of 6 meters. The camp is slightly above. Itinerary between camp 2 and camp 3 (6300m): departure from the camp by a steep section of snow/ice then crossing the gray tower: mixed delicately about 80m. After a crossing and a steep corridor, the ridge becomes easier to camp.
Ama Dablam camp 3 and summit
At last, the Itinerary between camp 3 and the summit (6856m) is climbing by steep snow slopes (+ 40 °) with the passage of a glacier snowfield before approaching the summit slope. From the summit, an exceptional view of a multitude of peaks including 5 to more than 8000m, Everest (8850m), the highest point on the planet, the Kangchenjunga (8586m), the third summit of the planet, the Lhotse (8516m), fourth, Makalu (8463m), fifth and Cho Oyu (8201m), sixth.
Itinerary
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Upon your arrival in Kathmandu, our local team warmly welcomes you at the airport. You will then be escorted to the hotel, where you can enjoy some well-deserved relaxation. The itinerary includes a briefing about the trek's progress and presentation, followed by leisure time. If you arrive in the morning, you'll have the entire day at your disposal. This can be used for rest or for those interested, to explore the surroundings freely. It's an ideal chance to deeply experience Nepalese culture and indulge in the local culinary delights.
Transfer to hotel
Final altitude: approximately 1350 m
Meals: Dinner
Accommodation: night in the hotel
We reserve this day for sightseeing in Kathmandu Valley and to prepare for trekking. After having a warm breakfast, we will leave the hotel in a private vehicle with an experienced tour guide. We will visit several UNESCO-listed world heritage sites in Kathmandu valley and the famous Swayambhunath stupa, and the Boudhanath stupa. These places are famous to have inherited ancient religious practices, architecture, and culture. But also make the last purchases if necessary and above all optimize the luggage in a mountaineering bag and a trekking bag.
Final altitude: approximately 1350 m
Meals: dinner
Accommodation: night in the hotel
Either a morning transfer to Kathmandu airport or very early departure (around 4 am) for Ramechhap airport and breakfast organized on your arrival before your flight to Lukla. This visual flight, which can only be done in good weather conditions, offers a magnificent panorama of the Himalayas.On arrival in Lukla, the organization of the loads with the porters and the Sherpas then the start of the trek.
walking : approximately 3 hours
Final altitude: approximately 2,610 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
We travel up the Dudh Khola River, with the magnificent Himalayan pines lining our route. Several bridges make us change banks according to the meanders of the river. Steep climb to the capital of Khumbu (Sherpa country). On the way, we admire the Thamserku and from time to time we see Everest. In Namche Bazaar, visit the village, very picturesque. You can walk the alleys of this village built in an amphitheater.
6 hrs of walking
Final altitude: approximately 3,440 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
We climb in a small forest and admire for the first time the high peaks of Khumbu (Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam), we arrive in the villages of Kunde and Khumjung. It may be possible to visit the “Hillary High School” and the Kunde hospital built on Hillary's initiative.
walking: about 3 h
Final altitude: approximately 3,440 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
Leaving Namche, the path climbs above the houses to reach the ridge line. Passage of a small pass, then descent to the village of Khumjung. Superb view of the prince of the place, the Ama Dablam. Very nice day, a walk with beautiful views of the Himalayan range. We reach Tengboche, dominated by its gompa, a Buddhist monastery, which is a high place in Nepal. We are at the foot of Ama Dablam
walking: about 6 h
Final altitude: approximately 3,860 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge.Tea house
A long stage that familiarizes your body with the altitude. The route offers an almost permanent view of the Ama Dablam but also the Thamserku while climbing steadily. We pass Pangboche, which was until the arrival of tourism one of the last permanently inhabited high-altitude villages. Many Pangboche villagers have gone on expeditions to the highest peaks and Everest. Porters, then altitude sherpas, and finally guides for those who have realized their dream. The village also paid a heavy price to the mountain. You enter the heart of the upper Khumbu, and the landscape becomes more mineral. Dingboche (4400m) marks the intersection of the Chukhung and Everest valleys.
walking: about 3 h
Final altitude: approximately 3,960 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a lodge
We branch off towards the base camp of Ama Dablam. The camp is very nice with a nice flat surface. The view of Ama Dablam is breathtaking!
walking: 5 h
Final altitude: approximately 4,600 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in a tent or in a lodge
Now, we have 15 days dedicated to your further acclimatization, rest, installation of the various high-altitude camps, and the final ascent to the summit.
– Route between the base camp and the high camp (5400m): the path follows the ridgeline (gentle slope) which dominates the base camp.
– Route between the high camp (5400m) and Camp 1 (5800m): crossing an area of large blocks of rocks. The camp is located above a large slab of rock a hundred meters that can be slippery.
– Itinerary between Camp 1 and Camp 2 (6000m): the route follows a horizontal ridge with many crossings and passing several projections. At the end of this ridge is the “yellow tower”: a vertical projection of 6 meters. The camp is slightly above.
– Itinerary between camp 2 and camp 3 (6300m): departure from the camp by a steep section in snow/ice then crossing the gray tower: mixed delicately about 80m. After a crossing and a steep corridor, the ridge becomes easier to camp.
– Itinerary between camp 3 and the summit (6856m): mounted by steep snow slopes (+ 40 °) with the passage of a bergschrund before approaching the summit slope. From the summit, an exceptional view of a multitude of peaks including 5 more than 8000m: Everest (8850m), the highest point on the planet, the Kangchenjunga (8586m), the third summit of the planet, the Lhotse (8516m), fourth, Makalu (8463m), fifth and Cho Oyu (8201m), sixth.
Accommodation: tent
We leave the base camp and reach the main valley at Pangboche. We retrieve the main route that leads us to Namche.
Approximately 6-7 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 3440 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge
We soon taste the gentle warmth of the low valleys
descending the forested gorges of the Dudh Khosi, crossing the villages of
Monjo and Phakding, before going back to Lukla where we thank the team of
porters. We will spend our last evening in the heart of Khumbu.
Approximately 6 hours of walking
Final altitude: approximately 46,00 m
Meals: breakfast – lunch – dinner
Accommodation: night in the lodge
Free day in Kathmandu also serves as a security day in
case of problems on the Lukla / Kathmandu or during trekking. Today, you have a
rest day to relax or you can also go shopping in Kathmandu or you can do
anything you like by yourself.
Final altitude: 1350 m
Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: night in the hotel
free time depending on the departure time of your flight
and our representative will drop you at the airport, ending your journey in
Nepal. We hope to be of service to you again. Thank you and safe travels.
Final altitude: approximately 13,50m
Meals: breakfast
Trip Included
- ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by private vehicle.
- HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU: 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) - single room on bed and breakfast plan.
- WELCOME DINNER: One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office’s Staff.
- PERMITS: Expedition Royalty and a permit fee of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Ama Dablam, Sagarmatha National Park, and Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality entry permit and fee.
- LIAISON OFFICER: 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
- GARBAGE MANAGEMENT: Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
- INSURANCE: Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
- MAP: Trekking and climbing map.
- DUFFLE BAG: One Alpinist club Duffle Bag.
- MEMBER TRANSPORTATION : - (Domestic Flight) Fly from Kathmandu – Lukla And Lukla - Kathmandu, as per itinerary.
- EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION: All necessary expedition equipment transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Lukla (by air cargo) and Base camp (by Porters / Yak) – While returning: Base camp to Lukla (by porters / Yak) and Lukla to Kathmandu (by air cargo).
- MEMBER LUGGAGE: Up to 40 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters or Yaks.
- FOOD AND LODGING: 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and fresh green vegetables, fresh meat, fruits, and soft drinks will be served during the entire expedition using helicopter flights. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
- PORTER: Porters per member up to the Base camp and from the Basecamp (both ways).
- BASE CAMP STAFF: Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
- STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE: All Nepalese staff & porters' daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
- BASE CAMP TENT: Each member will have an individual tent in Base Camp.
- BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT : Single Tent, foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dinning Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staffs Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staffs, Store tents, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
- HEATER: Heater at base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.
- SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT: 1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, for laptop and other electronic devices.
- TRAINING: Oxygen, Mask Regulator, Ice wall, and gear training at basecamp by Sherpa Guide.
- HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA: 1 government-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.
- ASSISTANCE: Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.
- CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE : Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.
- BONUS : Carry Bonus of Sherpas and Route Fixing Charges.
- OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2) : Oxygen bottles will be in stock at base camp in case of an emergency (with an appropriate charge).
- OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR : 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks will be in base camp in case of an emergency.
- HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) : High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) and (C3). Group climbing gears, and fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
- HIGH ALTITUDE TENT : Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).
- ROPE FIXING TEAM : The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the rope and the route.
- SATELLITE PHONE : Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members with an appropriate charge.
- WALKIE-TALKIE : Walkie–Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
- WEATHER FORECAST : Weather forecast report during the entire expedition.
- MEDICAL KIT : Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
- CERTIFICATE : Ama Dablam climbing certificate(after climbing Ama Dablam successfully).
Trip Excluded
- AIR FARE : International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
- NEPAL ENTRY VISA FEE : Nepalese Visa fee is $ 125 USD for 90 Days.
- LUNCH & DINNER : Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
- EXTRA NIGHTS IN KATHMANDU : Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
- INSURANCE POLICY : Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high altitude rescue & air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory
- PERSONAL EXPENSES : Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).
- PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT : Clothing, Packing Items, Bags, Personal Medical Kit, and all kinds of Personal Trekking / Climbing Gear.
- FILMING : Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
- INTERNET SERVICE : Not included during the trek and the expedition.
- SUMMIT BONUS : Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa - Minimum 700 USD.
- TIPS : Calculate some tips for Basecamp and high camp staff – Minimum 350 USD.
- EXTRA : Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary and other items not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.
Note: Due to unforeseeable factors (weather, fitness, customs, road conditions, landslides, etc.), your expedition leader may adjust the program as needed. The leader is the sole judge and guarantor of your safety. Activity times are for reference and may vary per participant.
Note: The provided itinerary is for reference only and may vary per participant. It's flexible to accommodate weather conditions. Follow your guide's recommendations, who may cancel or stop the expedition for safety or physical reasons. Remember, this is an autonomous expedition with potential hazards. Alpinist club, your expedition leader, guide, or local teams cannot be held responsible for any unforeseen issues.
Trip Organization
Your Guide and Team
Your guide, from your arrival in Kathmandu until your departure, is responsible for the success of your trip and oversees your team. Do not hesitate to ask him questions, respect his position as the team leader, and above all follow his advice! Often your guide is the only English-speaking member of the team. In the mountains and, especially when during high-altitude travels, your guide is responsible for the safety of the group. The instructions he gives and the remarks he makes to all participants must be carefully followed. The interest and safety of the trekking group must be preserved, even when it may be to the detriment of an individual member of the group.
Your Nepalese team may consist of several people, each with different responsibilities. They are:
The Guide Leader (Sirdar) is responsible for and leader of the whole team and is treated with respect by all. Often he has earned his position by starting as a porter and rising through the ranks.
climbing sherpa: experience Mountain Guide, fixed rope and guided to the summit
The Cook is responsible for all meals and is on a trek that doesn’t use lodges for meals.
The Kitchen-boy is an assistant to the cook. )
The Assistant Guide is actively helping clients under the leader’s direction and set camp.
The Porter is the load carrier for the trekking group. As Nepal is a mountain country with few roads, porters are employed to carry loads. Compliance with regulations and common courtesy dictates the maximum weight carried and the minimum wage paid. Porters are provided with gear based on the routes they follow and with insurance for alpine treks.
Each trekker is allotted the following maximum weights per person: Lodge (tea house) Accommodations: 15 kg maximum; Tent Camping: 22 kg maximum; Expeditions/summit ascents: 20 kg maximum. The porters are given a premium wage for carrying loads over 30 kg.
In addition, the Nepal Alpinist club takes care to take out insurance for the Guide and porters. Specific equipment is allocated to them for crossing passes at altitude (even if wearers often refuse to put on shoes due to lack of habit).
Accommodations in Kathmandu
In Kathmandu, you will accommodate in a hotel. We use different hotels depending on availability. The two preferred hotels are:
Hotel Ramada: Located in the heart of Thamel, this hotel is ideal for walking the bustling streets of Kathmandu. The spacious rooms all have a bathroom, air conditioning, and Wi-Fi. A fully equipped and active dining room is available for all meals, and the breakfast buffet offers a wide choice of foods. The hotel offers currency exchange, laundry services, and luggage storage.
Sampada Garden: Located just 20 minutes on foot from Thamel and Durbar Square, this hotel is convenient for exploring Kathmandu. The rooms have all the necessary comforts for your stay: air conditioning, bathroom, and Wi-Fi. Breakfasts are served as a generous buffet. The hotel provides currency exchange, laundry services, and luggage storage.
Accommodations during the Expedition
For camping, accommodation during the expedition: during the expedition, breakfasts, Lunch, and Dinner are prepared by the kitchen team. They are taken to the mess tent. additional energy food is provided. Purchased locally, they offer a more limited. You can, if you wish, bring some complementary cereal bars adapted to your taste.
For accommodation: meals are prepared by the cooks of the lodge and are taken from the lodge's dining room. Here is a typical one-day menu:
breakfast: eggs, toast or chapati, or Tibetan bread or pancakes, or pancakes, butter/jam, tea or coffee
Lunch: a main course, tea or coffee
Dinner: soup, main course, fruit (fresh or canned), tea or coffee
During the trek, tea or coffee is served with meals. Two cups per person are included.
Apart from these included menus, other drinks and foodstuffs will be at your expense.
Water: provide tablets (Hydroclovazone, Micropur, or another type) to disinfect the water you put in your water bottle, depending on the source and on the advice of your guide. It is sometimes possible to buy purified water and refill your water bottle without having to buy bottled water. You can also buy mineral water in the cities (not included in the price) but its ecological balance is poor, as you know. Also, we do not recommend it.
Preparation for the Trek
Preparing for the trek requires several months of preparation with 4 to 6-hour walks every weekend for stamina and participating in a sport that required short periods of high exertion.
Medical check-up
Being in good health is essential to fully enjoy your Alpinist Club trip. If your last medical visit was more than four years ago, please get another general physical exam and tell your doctor the nature of your trip (climate, altitude, difficulty, etc.). The altitude also has the effect of reviving dental problems or other chronic pain, so getting a dental checkup is also prudent. If you are undertaking a high-altitude expedition, we advise you to consult a mountain medicine specialist.
Acute Mountain Sickness
This trip takes place at high altitudes, so some people may experience altitude-related discomforts like headaches, loss of appetite, and swelling of limbs. Most of these symptoms usually go away within a few days, but sometimes they can develop into a serious illness: pulmonary or cerebral edema. There are no preventive drugs for AMS. Diamox diuretic is often effective for symptomatic relief, but you should first check with your doctor to verify that it is not contraindicated for you. Think about it before you go.
Your Personal Trekking Gear
- woolen hat
- fleece hat
- T-shirt
- Thermal full t-shirt (base layer)
- Fleece jacket
- Down jacket
- light insulating wear (mid-layer)
- Gore-Tex jacket
- Thermal Trouser (base layer)
- Trekking trousers (flexible )
- down pant
- Gore-Tex pants
- Gore-Tex gloves
- thin/warm gloves
- Rain punch
- woolen shock (thick)
- sandal
- camp shoes (sports shoes)
- Trekking boot
- sun /glacier glass (uv protection)
- snow gaiter
- sleeping bags
- personal first aid
- pocket knife
- washing soap, towel, tooth pest/ brush
- sun lotion enough +30 /50 & lip guard
- Trekking poles (u can buy in Nepal as well) 1 pair
- headlights, water bottles, Thermos
- books, a camera, playing card
Climbing Gear
- summit suit
- summit boat
- Climbing helmet
- alpine boot
- crampons (good condition )and fit for alpine boot
- ATC Guide
- Ascender (jumar)
- screw gate carabineer
- open gate carabineer
- ice Axe normal
- ice screw 22m
- auxiliary cord 8m in length with 6mm diameter
- dynamic safety cord - 3m length with 8mm diameter
- harness
- tape sling- 180cm- 120 cm
