YOUR PRIVATE GUIDE IN CLIMBING DHAULAGIRI

The keystone of your success on all of our expeditions is that we are systematically on a ratio of one high-altitude sherpa per participant. He accompanies you for the key moments of the ascent and during the summit push. He is particularly experienced in high altitudes. He has participated in several expeditions at more than 8,000 meters, successfully leading participants to the summit. We select him for you. He is generally English-speaking. He may not be permanently at your side in the rotations between the camps, his role also being to carry out the portages to set up the camps.

There is a summit bonus for your high-altitude sherpa to be paid on-site in cash after the climb. This bonus is due from the moment you leave the last camp towards the summit during your summit push attempt. 

EXPEDITION LEADER IN THE DHAULAGIRI EXPEDITION

His role is important in leading the strategy necessary for success: rotation in the altitude camps, acclimatization of each participant, and study of weather reports to decide on the optimum moment to launch the summit push.

The expedition leader represents the Alpinist Club to the group, . Mainly based at the base camp, he can accompany you to the high-altitude camps to supervise the smooth running of the expedition's logistics. He makes the necessary decisions that may be required. His authority is preponderant and unavoidable. You must respect his decisions as well as those taken collectively.

LOCAL PORTER TEAM DURING THE DHAULAGIRI EXPEDITION

Our experienced team is uniquely equipped to address the key challenges of a Himalayan expedition: technical supervision and equipment transport. With over 10 years of refinement, our optimized operation assigns clear roles to ensure individual and collective success.

A kitchen team will be present at the Dhaulagiri base camp.

There is a team of porters who help us set up the base camp with all the equipment and the kitchen. Beyond that, the team of high-altitude sherpas takes over. They help us in particular in setting up the high altitude camps and in portaging from the base camp.

Each participant will have to take care of carrying their personal belongings and altitude food. The collective equipment is transported by the Nepalese team. Our backpack will be calibrated from 10 to 12 kg.

For unforeseeable reasons at this stage, including weather but also fitness or lack of fitness of the participants, your guide may have to adapt or even interrupt your program, at any time if he deems it necessary, whether for the whole group or for a few participants, and for the smooth running of your trip. He remains the sole judge and guarantor of your safety.

DHAULAGIRI CLIMBING  DIFFICULTY LEVEL 

1 Physical level: extreme

This program is aimed at very experienced participants, with the physical and mental condition of a high-level athlete.

It is given as "extreme difficulty" given the very high altitude at which you will be climbing. Manaslu is one of the highest mountains in the world: although the technical difficulties are relative, climbing the summit is nonetheless a difficult and sometimes even dangerous undertaking. The commitment is very pronounced during summit attempts.

This expedition is therefore intended for experienced mountaineers (comfortable in a PD/AD level in snow), who already have good experience of high altitude. It is essential to be totally autonomous in the mountains, both technically and psychologically. The expedition leader and the high-altitude sherpas are, above all, technical advisors and logistics managers. They cannot under any circumstances "pull" a participant to the summit.

Of course, training is necessary, training focused on developing one's endurance and resistance capacities: running, cycling, swimming, ski touring, and of course, mountain racing. This training must be regular and have started at least 6 to 8 months before the expedition leaves.

2 High Altitude 

High altitude is the main challenge in climbing an 8,000-meter peak, as oxygen levels drop significantly (hypoxia). Gradual acclimatization is vital, especially in the first weeks. Take it slow, avoid overexertion, and listen to your body—symptoms like headaches and nausea are common but shouldn’t be ignored to prevent serious complications.

The expedition demands prolonged physical effort in harsh conditions, including cold and wind, so solid endurance and resistance training are essential. For those interested, we offer the option to climb without supplemental oxygen, though most use it from Camp 4 (7,500 m). A 1:1 ratio of altitude Sherpas to participants ensures personalized support during the summit push. Feel free to discuss your plans with us!

During the expedition, you must carry your personal belongings, as high-altitude Sherpas only transport collective equipment. For summit attempts, expect to carry a 6–8 kg bag, including oxygen bottles (4 kg).

The challenging environment—distance, cold, bad weather, and discomfort—can cause stress, fatigue, and mood changes. Good humor, tolerance, and respect for teammates and the local team are essential. While subgroups may form, team spirit is key to success.

3 Mountaineering level 

This program requires the use of mountaineering equipment like crampons, harnesses, ice axes, and ropes. The route may include moderate challenges, such as steeper glacier sections, exposed walls, or sustained effort, all made harder by the altitude. Steep sections are equipped with fixed ropes, so proficiency with a self-blocking device is essential. This climb is for participants with prior mountaineering experience at a similar level.

The technical difficulty assumes normal weather conditions and can increase with poor weather, fresh snow, or low-quality ice. Factors like altitude, heavy packs, limited route equipment, and long approaches also make the climb more demanding.

ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU AND DHAULAGIRI EXPEDITION

Hotel in Kathmandu: In Kathmandu, we will provide you with a single room in a hotel 

During the trek to Kanchenjunga, you will stay in the Lodge. Lodges in Nepal are very random in terms of comfort. Lodges can look like a refuge or sometimes a homestay. They are mostly family homes with double, triple, or dormitory rooms. Toilets and showers are always separate. 

Dhaulagiri Base Camp: At the base camp, we are in individual tents. A base camp for several weeks must be as comfortable as possible, to allow a good recovery on returning from the high-altitude camps. It must allow us to face a period of bad weather in the best possible conditions. Each participant has a tent with a comfortable mattress. A heated mess tent is the main living area. Tables and chairs are permanently installed there. We also have a shower tent and a toilet tent (solid waste in evacuated barrels)

Dhaulagiri High Altitude Camps: During the ascent, at the high camps, we have a high-altitude tent for 2 people, or even 3 people at the last camps.

Hygiene & dry cleaning during the Dhaulagiri Expedition

• Toilets: The base camp has toilets and toilet paper. Be sure to wash your hands with hydroalcoholic gel (to be taken from your pharmacy) after each visit to the toilet. For the higher camps, we recommend that you bring a bottle that you will use to urinate at night to avoid having to go out.
• Daily hygiene: a basin with water and soap is available at the entrance to the mess tent. Water is intended for washing the face and hands; do not drink it.
• Shower: hot water is available (ask in the kitchen). Only take showers in sunny weather to avoid catching a cold! 
• Laundry: water (cold) and basin to be requested from the kitchen, bring biodegradable products only.

MEAL IN  KATHMANDU AND TREKKING DURING DHAULAGIRI EXPEDITION

Upon arrival in Kathmandu, a welcome dinner is provided on the first evening. Similarly, upon return from the expedition, a farewell meal is provided. In the cities, many small (or large) restaurants allow us to discover the typical local cuisine. 

During the Trek, breakfasts and evening meals are prepared by the kitchen team or the lodge cooks and are taken in the lodge dining room or under the mess tent. Depending on the profile of the stages (length of the day's walk and/or presence of water), midday Lunch/ snacks will be served hot or cold in the form of picnics.

Here is a typical one-day menu during the trek: 

• Breakfast: eggs, toast or chapati, or Tibetan bread or pancakes, or pancakes, butter/jam, tea or coffee
• Lunch: a main course, tea or coffee
• Dinner: soup, main course, fruit (fresh or canned), tea or coffee.  During the trek, tea or coffee is served with meals. Two cups per person are included. Apart from these included menus, other drinks and foodstuffs will be at your expense.
• Water: Use purification tablets (Hydralazine, Micropur, or others) as advised by your guide, refill with purified water when possible, and avoid bottled mineral water due to its environmental impact.

DHAULAGIRI BASE CAMP MEAL

All meals are prepared by the kitchen team using local ingredients, including rice, pasta, lentils, potatoes, vegetables, eggs, a little meat, etc. They are served to you in a Dining tent. Non-alcoholic hot drinks such as tea or coffee are offered to you at will. We recommend that you stay constantly hydrated. 

DHAULAGIRI ALTITUDE CAMPS MEAL

At camp 2, our cook will prepare food for you. At high altitudes, eating can be difficult, and freeze-dried food is usually necessary. While this food might taste fine at lower elevations, it can quickly become unappealing in high-altitude camps.

We will provide freeze-dried dishes and share your preferences. We’ll do our best to match these, depending on available stock. You can also bring up your favorite foods for the expedition.

For higher camp, each tent is equipped with a stove to melt snow for water, prepare freeze-dried meals, and make hot drinks. Gas cartridges will be provided

STAY HYDRATED

Bring water purification tablets (like Hydroclonazone or Micropur) to treat water, depending on the source and your guide's advice. Purified water may sometimes be available, reducing the need for bottled water, which is less eco-friendly. 

Glacier meltwater lacks minerals, which your meals partly provide. However, relying only on tea, coffee, or plain water can lead to poor hydration, stomach issues, and mineral deficiencies on long expeditions. To avoid this, pack 2–3 tubes of mineral salt tablets (10 tablets per tube) to add to your water bottle.

TRANSFERS / TRANSPORT DURING TRIP

All transfers are provided in private vehicles. 

For various reasons, we prefer trekking to reach the base camp: the progression designed for acclimatization allows you to prepare yourself physically and psychologically for the climb. It is also the ideal time to get to know the team and to start building team spirit and cohesion.  The return is also planned as a trek. That said, the possibility of taking the helicopter on the way back is possible for an additional fee. 

GROUP SIZE  IN THE DHAULAGIRI CLIMBING ROUTE

The group is composed of 1 to 15 participants maximum. The number of participants is voluntarily limited to allow a better immersion, to not embarrass our hosts, to develop spaces of freedom and to allow a great flexibility of operation. However, the maximum number can be exceeded in the case where the last person who registers wishes to travel with another or several other people. The services will not be modified and the conditions of the trip will be identical as a result.

COLLECTIVE CAMP EQUIPMENT FOR DHAULAGIRI CLIMBING

All logistical equipment is provided, including individual tents at the base camp with mattresses, mess tent, shower tent and toilet tent, as well as all collective and individual cooking equipment. At altitude, tents, stoves with gas cartridges, ropes and anchors.

INDIVIDUAL EQUIPMENT

Personal equipment is not provided. A complete list is provided later in this document. It will be refined with us during the preparation days and up until the time of departure according to your questions.

High altitude sleeping bags, full suits and/or good quality down jackets are expensive items that you may not use often. We can rent you this specific equipment for the duration of the expedition. You must then return the equipment cleaned and in the condition in which it was given to you (deposit required). 

OXYGEN OR WITHOUT OXYGEN FOR SUMMIT PUSH

For safety, high-altitude Sherpas always use supplemental oxygen at a reduced flow. Most participants begin using oxygen from Camp 4 (7,400 m), with some starting at Camp 3 (6,800 m). Your package includes 3 oxygen bottle and 1 regulator, and a mask for use from Camp 4. High-altitude porters transport these items to the camps.

If you wish to use oxygen before Camp 4, you must request it early. Extra cylinders are not included and must be paid for on-site. We also allow participants to attempt the summit without supplemental oxygen, thanks to a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio, enabling personalized ascent rhythms. Discuss this option with your expedition leader early to refine acclimatization. Note that no refunds are provided if you choose not to use oxygen. For safety, one oxygen bottle per participant is provided at Camp 4, regardless of use.

From Camp 4, two options are available for the summit push:

No oxygen bottle: The "purist" approach avoids extra weight but requires turning back if fatigue or slow pace becomes an issue. No second summit attempt is allowed.

Carry an oxygen bottle: Adds 4–5 kg to your pack but allows flexibility to use oxygen if needed during the climb.

SECURITY AND COMMUNICATION

We have at least one Iridium satellite phone that is used only for logistical, weather and security purposes. Under certain conditions, participants may use it. For these private uses, please contact us.

The camps will be permanently connected by radio. Expedition leader, participants and high-altitude sherpas will also have access to this. 

The expedition will have a hyperbaric chamber at the base camp, and a complete, lighter pharmacy at the higher camps.

PREPARATION FOR DHAULAGIRI CLIMBING 

Preparing for the trek requires several months of preparation with 4 to 6-hour walks every weekend for stamina and participating in a sport that requires short periods of high exertion.

MEDICAL CHECK-UP BEFORE GOING EXPEDITION

Being in good health is essential to enjoying your Alpinist Club trip fully. If your last medical visit was more than four years ago, please get another general physical exam and tell your doctor the nature of your trip (climate, altitude, difficulty, etc.). The altitude also has the effect of reviving dental problems or other chronic pain, so getting a dental checkup is also prudent. If you are undertaking a high-altitude expedition, we advise you to consult a mountain medicine specialist.

ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS

This trip takes place at high altitudes, so some people may experience altitude-related discomfort like headaches, loss of appetite, and swelling of limbs. Most of these symptoms usually go away within a few days, but sometimes they can develop into a serious illness: pulmonary or cerebral edema. There are no preventive drugs for AMS. Diamox diuretic is often effective for symptomatic relief, but you should first check with your doctor to verify that it is not contraindicated. Think about it before you go.