Himlung himal expedition know everything for 2025

Discover the best time to climb Himlung Himal with Alpinist club and prepare for the journey of a lifetime. Whether you are an experienced mountaineer or a passionate trekker, this expedition offers an incredible opportunity to explore the majestic landscapes and rich culture of the region. Book your spot today and embark on your dream adventure!

The Himlung Himal is now the most popular 7,000m expedition peak in Nepal.  It’s one of the easiest and safest climbing peak, when compared with other 7000m expeditions. This is one of the mountains that sit in the rain shadow region of Nepal. Therefore, the Himlung Himal is ideal summit to discover the high altitude Adventures.  It has become more frequented climbing especially in the spring season.

 It's a summit that we know perfectly, and that we approach with an even more elaborate itinerary for a better approach to the region and a progressive acclimatization. The ascent takes place in a very high mountain atmosphere and without significant objective risk. The first part of the route, from French Camp to Camp 2, is technically affordable. Then, sometimes the altitude makes itself felt, access to camp 3  is a little more physical, on large, slightly steep slopes. On the last day, the route of the final ridge is more demanding and requires real ease in mountaineering, without being really difficult.

Himlung Himal is located in the Peri and Manaslu Himal Range in Manang District of Gandaki Zone.  Mt: Manaslu is 28 km to the south-southeast. The first ascent of Himlung Himal took place in 1992 expedition led by a Japanese mountaineering group, over the Northwest Ridge took. the second ascent was made 10 years later by a French expedition.

 The Himlung climbing route is semi-technical with fixed rope line support to reach the summit. During climbing periods, Sherpa guides and leaders from several groups to work together to set up the ropes. The climbing route is mostly on ice and snowy surfaces and wide steep uphill climb all the way to the summit.

 

The route to Himlung Himal Expedition 


Kathmandu to Phu gau

Our Himlung Himal expedition Route is different than others. Normally, other Mountaineer enters from koto into a narrow valley, and follow the Phu River to reach the base camp of Himlung. It takes short 3-4 days to get phu village. But we Alpinist club organize differently. We make a circuit by cross the kangla pass 5320m. Our route follows the Kathmandu – koto- upper Pisang- Ngawal- kangla pass- nar village and phu. This is help you for better acclimatization in the expedition. However, you get chances to explore more about the Annapurna more
We set up our base camp at 4900M which is located at the upper borders of Phu village. The new normal route develop in 2013 by Kari Kobler (Switzerland Mountaineer). Himlung Himal climbing  is interesting, relatively short, without particular difficulty (PD +), and with limited objective danger. It shortcuts the previous route by ascending the south flank of the northwest ridge to reach its upper crest.

Our Himlung Himal expedition includes 2 high camps. Camp I 5430M and Camp II 6120M But camp 3 is possible if the clients need (Camp 3 is an alternative solution). The climb is technically less challenging But can get extremely cold. The climb can get extremely cold. Fixed rope lines are fixed by the Sherpa guiding team to the summit

 
Base camp 4925m N 28° 46 493   E 84° 20 969


The Himlung Himal new base camp also called French base camp.  And It  is comfortable with water nearby and sheltered from avalanches. The logistical challenge remains to pitch the camp as it seems a bit complex when crossing through the Pangir Glacier on big inconvenient boulders and the way up the moraine on the right bank is exposed to rock fall.


Base camp (4900m) to camp I (5430M) N 28 ° 45 384 E 84 ° 22 147


Access from franch Base Camp is quite effortless and very quick. It takes 2 to 3 hours trekking on terrain, with moraines and small valleys. Of course, the snow conditions may change the progression.  But on the way, here is no slope subject to avalanches. The primary thing to do is to overcome the Pangri Glacier cover by ice. We steep in moraine slope with fixed ropes. Then, following south ridge to Camp I. We set this up on a flat rock plateau right now under the beginning of the glacier.

 
Himlung Himal high camp I to high Camp II (6150 m) 

We climb with ropes attached together on the glacier, which shows little danger of falling into crevasses. this part o way up is certainly much more convenient when it covered with snow. Depending on the snow conditions, this part represents the trickiest part of the ascent. Avoiding the crevasses and ascent continue up on the glacier Camp.  We find suitable terrains to set up our camp 2 on the 'Glacier Camp'. It seems subject to little, if any, risk of avalanche (to be verified depending on conditions).

 
Camp II (6150 m) and Summit (7126 m)


Summit day is longest day and easily can’t be reduced with an additional high camp.. Climbing to the summit is fully equipped with fixed ropes in steep places. View from the summit point is breathtaking.  The first part of the ascent consists in reaching the pass across snowy slopes, a little bit steep (40°) and exposed. About 600m of Fixed ropes are installed here by Sherpa team. Then the slopes become les generally s steep, with a few flat bits. Generally, which is not a problem, the slope on the side of the ridge becomes steeper.  This is the steepest part of the whole climb: about 400m at 30/35°. In hard/frozen snow conditions, there is a high risk of falling, so the agencies install fixed ropes on this part as well. The route then reaches a less steep ridge, up to a flatter section before the small final slope.

Camp 3 (6300m) 


The camp3 is very easy to reach. By continuing up on the icy and snow up to the last place before the ridge. It takes 2 hours max from camp 2. Our Camp 3 is an alternative solution but due to its risky nature, the lead guide will only strategize camp 3, if needed after assessing the situations in the mountain while on expedition
 

How do get a successful summit in the Himlung Himal?


@himlung himal summit 

Himlung Himal expedition, where you will evolve in the high altitude mountain. It is necessary to have some basic mountain experience, an active practice of hiking, trekking or mountaineering to be as independent as possible. Knowing how to progress independently or roped with the guide and knowing how to handle the ropes is necessary. Climbers should be in good physical shape, with significant sporting practice, Tolerance, with an excellent mind allowing them to Mange with inherently unpredicted difficulties.

It is most essential to have a good physical and mental preparation, because of the effort at high altitude and the hostile environment (remoteness, cold, bad weather, discomfort) to optimize the chances of success. It is also important to have team spirit. Each participant is responsible for the use of safety rules, their equipment and its maintenance, the installation of the camp, the preparation of meals. As always in this type of project, the key to success remains the united and team spirit.

How to protect from Altitude sickness in Himlung Himal expedition period?


Climbing high Altitude Mountain is risk. Lack of oxygen can cause acute mountain sickness which can lead to cerebral or pulmonary edema in a few hours. In order to avoid this serious or even fatal risk, it is important to acclimatize well. Acclimatization is only the best medicine for the altitude sickness.

In the mountain, the atmospheric pressure decreases as we rise. It is twice less at 5,000 m and three times less at 8,000 m. This has direct physical Movement on our body. The drop in atmospheric pressure leads to a decrease in oxygen pressure in the ambient air. The lower the oxygen pressure in the air, the less the lungs are able to take up oxygen. This decreases the oxygen pressure in the blood.

Therefore, decreases physical performance. The body is able to acclimatize if given enough time. When trekking, it is advisable not to exceed a positive altitude difference of 500 to 800 m per consecutive night up to 3,000 m then, between 300 to 500 m maximum beyond that. Hydration initiates and revives kidney function. Staying hydrated helps you acclimate better.


Himlung Himal Difficult level

The difficulty can increase in case of bad conditions, fresh snow for a rocky part, insufficiency or lack of quality of the ice for a glacier race, etc. Similarly, the situation changes radically, for the same technical level, with the altitude, the weight of the bag, the lack of equipment for the route on site, the fatigue linked to the approach if it is long, the environment particularly hostile, etc.



What Skill Is Required For Climbing Himlung Himal Expedition?

Mt: Himlung 7126 m is a nontechnical mountain for a climber. but Climbers will need exceptional physical fitness and climbing skills due to the altitude. The climber should be able to take care of themselves during climbing days. You are responsible to build your fitness up to the best level. Our itineraries are designed to be able to help you with proper acclimatization. Equally important clients have to be aware of their eating patterns and stay hydrated. Your climbing Sherpa expedition leader will guide and motivate you throughout but a lot of the effort lies within you and your ability to climb. We suggest certain skills, especially for the AmaDablum expedition.

  • indoors and outdoors rock climbing
  • learn the basics of wearing a harness and helmets
  • tying figure 8 knot and stopper knot
  • basics of using the belaying device correctly
  • Use ascending and descending devices
  • basics of using ropes when climbing
  • Learning knowledge of moving while using the gears and being checking the safety features
  • Some multi-pitch abseiling knowledge/experience is also required.
  • Use Crampons and Ice axe.
  • Climbing on different terrains. Slab rocks, vertical rocks. Scrambling on steep terrains
As climbers joining the Himlung Himal expedition will already have previous experiences, we recommend climbers to have extra essential skills in their climbing arsenal. If you can’t find mountains to climb near your place, rock climbing indoors and outdoors is one of the best ways to keep refreshing your rope skills and staying in climbing shape.

With all commercial expeditions, the majority of your expedition is handled and taken care by your expedition company. Having competent members from operational management to guiding leaders on the field is key for any successful expedition. Once you are signed up and you’ve got the necessary skills and experience all you need to be is physically and mentally prepared that is your commitment to fitness training.

Also, All training will be provided in Himlung base camp base camp by your Sherpa expedition leader, to refresh your skill memories and get you started on climbing

OUTLINE ITINERARY OF HIMLUNG HIMAL EXPEDITION


Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu 1,350m
Day 2: prepare for expedition
Day 3: Drive –Besisahar to koto 2500m
Day 4:  Trekking form Koto to Meta 3,500m
Day 5: Trekking from meta to Kyang 3,800m
Day 6: Trekking form kyang to phu 4,100m
Day 7:  Rest day
Day 8: Trekking from Phu to Base camp
Day 9 to 23: Climbing Period for Himlung Himal Summit (7,126m) (15 Days of climbing, Base Camp. Puja ritual ceremony, contingency day, Training, and preparation for a summit bid. Camp 1, Camp 2, and Summit)
Day 24: trekking from base camp to phu
Day 25: Trekking from phu to Meta village 3,500m
Day 26: Trekking from Meta to koto 2,500m
Day 27: drive to Kathmandu
Day 28: rest day
Day 29: final departures

What Equipment Is Required For Himlung Himal Expedition?


Travel Documents
Valid Passport
Valid Visa
4 PP Size Photo
Insurance Paper (Medical &Rescue) & Contact AddressFamily / Company Contact – Number & Address

Upper Body 
Short-Sleeved Shirts/T-shirts
Lightweight Top / Thermo Coat
Midweight Top
Heavyweight Top
Synthetic or Fleece Jacket
Down Insulated Jacket
Windproof Jacket
Gore-Tex Jacket

Lower Body   
Underwear
lightweight Long Underpants
Midweight Long Underpants
Heavyweight Long Underpants
Trekking Pants
Down / Synthetic Insulated Pants
Gore-Tex Pants
Trekking & Climbing Socks (5 Pairs)
Summit Socks (2 Pairs)

Hand & Head
Lightweight Synthetic Liner Glove
Wind Stopper Fleece Gloves
Summit Gloves
Heavy Gloves (Mitten)
Sun Cap
Wool / Fleece Hat
Balaclava
Hand Warmer
Neck Gaiter / High Neck

Climbing Gears/ Technical Devices
Climbing Helmet
Headlamp with Spare Batteries (Petzl / BD)
Summit Down Suits (Kailas / Marmot / T8K / The North Face)
Ice Axe Semi-technical
Crampons
Harness
Carabineers (Both Lock & Unlock)
Ascenders / Jumar
Belay Device (ATC Guide/Figure of 8)
Assistant Rope and Tape Sling
2 Sleeping Bag: -30 +C to -40 +C
Thermarest Inflatable Mattress
Thermarest Cell Foam Mattress
Sun/Glacier Glasses UV Protection
Snow Goggle UV Protection
Rucksacks (45 – 55 Ltr.)
2 Duffel Bag
Water Bottles
Thermos / Flask
Pee Bottle
Pack Towel
1 Set Extendable Trekking Poles
Swiss Knife
Mug, Plastic Bowl, Fork & Spoon
Alpine Boot / G2SM
Sandals
Lightweight Hiking/Trekking Boots
Camp Booties 

First Aid Kit
Sunscreen (-50 Spf)
Lips Guard (-20/-50 Spf)
Water Purification Tablets
Baby Wipes or Wet Towels
Handy Plaster
Crack Bandage
Tincture Lodine
Strepsils
Antibiotic
Paracetamol
Aspirin
Sinex
Anti-Diarrhea Capsule / Eldoper
Brufen / Ibuprofens
Diamox
Eye Drops
Dexamethasone Tablets
Zip-Lock Bags
 
Toiletries
Hand Sanitizers & Hand wash
Wet Tissues
Toothpaste
Toothbrush
Bath Soap
Shampoo
Laundry Soap
Garbage Bag

Miscellaneous
Umbrella / Rain Coat
Spare batteries
Water Proof Stuff Sacks
satellite Phone (if possible)


Which Route Will the Alpinist Team Choose For the Himlung Himal Expedition?


Himlung Himal is one of the nontechnical 7000M climbing mountains in the Nepal Himalayas. The new normal route, pioneered around 2013 by Switzerland climber Kari Kobler, is interesting, relatively short, without particular difficulty (PD +), and with less objective danger. Our strategy on the expedition will be to use Camp 1,2 and camp 3 climbing through the standard route. But if someone needs it we can arrange a camp 4.


Mountain Guide And Climbing Sherpa For Himlung Himal Expedition?

Himlung Himal expedition we aim to have a max of 5 to 11 climbers. we will have 1 Main guide, who will be Nepali IFMGA / NMA certified as a main leader of the team. And we believe that Nepalese IFMGA certified guides are more than capable and have an excellent level of English. We are committed to responsible tourism and want to enhance and prioritize local Nepalese leaders first.

Sherpa ratio 1:2. Our Sherpa’s are NMA ( Nepal Mountain association trained/certified ). Personal Sherpa for 1:1 can be arranged who will be solely responsible for the clients but extra additional charges apply. Our Sherpa’s have a good level of English. Can understand, reply and instruct very well.

 

How Safe Is  Himlung Himal To Climb?

whatever, Safety has always Alpinist team’s top priority and we attempt to create the safest mountain experience skill possible. Alpinist’s well-skill team of guides focuses on leading a fun and successful climb without compromising safety. Therefore, Careful planning with daily weather forecasts and diligent attention are taken as we climb to high altitudes. Comprehensive medical kits, rescue equipment, and radio and satellite communication equipment carry with the team throughout the trip.


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